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New XS650....new to everything and a battery question
- Thread starter Maine_dad
- Start date
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- battery kick start power start
Here is the photo of the wires:
A. Wire jacket just gnawed a bit
B. To battery positive? (then needs lug)
C. Ground, needs a lug
D. Perhaps this was supposed to connect to right most fuse in photo?
I just took picture, but plan to take a look at the wiring diagram another poster linked to
A. Wire jacket just gnawed a bit
B. To battery positive? (then needs lug)
C. Ground, needs a lug
D. Perhaps this was supposed to connect to right most fuse in photo?
I just took picture, but plan to take a look at the wiring diagram another poster linked to
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A to B is not stock wiring, don't know it's purpose - maybe to fix issue with original box. C, is battery negative as you ID'd. D may have been return feed from ign switch. Green wire & fuse holder not stock, same as AB.
One can get wire, terminals, solder and repair all that. Or...:
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-fuse-box-with-connector-plugs-cover.html
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-battery-negative-cable-to-frame-74-84-oem-447-82116-00.html
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-battery-positive-cable-for-74-84-oem-447-82115-001.html
Not from my preferred supplier, but in this case perhaps best route. Opinions?
One can get wire, terminals, solder and repair all that. Or...:
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-fuse-box-with-connector-plugs-cover.html
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-battery-negative-cable-to-frame-74-84-oem-447-82116-00.html
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-battery-positive-cable-for-74-84-oem-447-82115-001.html
Not from my preferred supplier, but in this case perhaps best route. Opinions?
Left side of the picture. Someone replaced 2 fuse block fuses with inline fuses. The wire color coding in your schematic, Tech Section-Electrical, will tell you which circuit. I printed my 77D schematic on 2 pages taped together. My son went to Office Max and had a full size drawing printed.
Seeing as you have considerable wiring repair to do anyway, I'd look at converting to blade type fuses. The old glass fuses were iffy when they were new and they're 40+ years old now.
This is how I did it on my '79. I'm sure there are other examples of the conversion on the site.
This is how I did it on my '79. I'm sure there are other examples of the conversion on the site.
Thank you and @teamWicked and @Downeaster ! Looks like I need to do some wiring, which I figured. I like the idea of moving to a blade. I will likely focus on the circuits that matter for attempting a start up. The bike didnt come with a battery, so that part is done. Tank removal looks straight forward. Recommendations for cleaning the inside seeing as I am taking it off?
Is the tank dirty or rusted? If there is fuel I suggest decanting into your lawnmower gas can. Dilute it with fresh gas and use it in lawnmower or snowblower.. If the tank is otherwise mostly clean, keep it capped until you are ready for start up.
DE that is a super-clean, modern install.
Mdad - that is a modern set-up and a quality component. It, however, requires some wiring modification, terminals and soldering. Are you up to it?
Good question. Maybe? I'm not scared of it (my father was an electrician and i know how to solder), but maybe the best approach is to get new to match existing and get it running. During the tear down I can decide if I want to upgrade. It seems short money to just fix it with a new part. And maybe I leave it. Some of me likes the original path.
Pulled bowls and dumped gas. My eyes said they werent terrible. The floats had some gunk and there were some floaties but not as much as i expected to see. i did a wipe with some gum out and put them back. I also tried to get a look in the tank. The one spot shown is the only spot i can see. I will still drain and put some fresh non ethanol in for the test start. Once i fix the electrical.
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Your floats suggest alot of gummy residue. If you do get it started use fuel with a healthy dose of naptha or STP (Bardahl, Sea Foam, etc) Fuel Treatment/Injector Cleaner. Now, while the float bowls are off spray carb cleaner through all the little holes in the bowl castings and up through the main jet, needle jet and any other orifice. Use the little plastic tupe to direct the spray. I use flattened cardboard boxes sey under the bike to catch drips and residue. The boxes go in the burn pit for the next backyard fire.
Well, i made my full disclosure in my first post! I was expecting goop at the bottom so what i saw was better than expected. The seal was still on when i took the picks, but i imagine they need a very thorough washing. At this point, i want to ensure the bike generally works before i pull it apart. My goal is road ready by 2032.
As you describe in 1st post, "sitting for 30yrs", those carbs are maybe better than as-expected. Different methods for cleaning are successful. When the time comes, holler.
Pics of 20yr stored Honda 750Four (before,after)
Pics of 20yr stored Honda 750Four (before,after)
What is the black cable that comes through the frame, top of battery box?
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Should find the other end at terminal lug on starter solenoid and at that ring terminal should include 12ga red wire splice that goes to fuse box connector for main fuse (20A)
aka battery positive cable
aka battery positive cable
Remove replace the ground strap also. Scrape sand frame till bright bare metal shows at terminal.
Lets see pics of the perch/lever and the outside of the installed side cover with the clutch cable installed.
