Project Bobber X2.2 the rework.

That’s pretty much what I did Jim. The adjusters on the perch are all the way in. I turned the screw in until it was just pushing and felt of the lever. It felt really good and I could feel that it was moving the plates out. Fired it up, pulled the lever, dropped it in gear and it found the friction zone right before the end of travel.
 
Try again? If you think about it, all that travel at the lever is play that can be taken out at the worm screw. You need the screw, screwed in further.

Edit: hang on maybe I'm backwards... gimmie a sec...
 
Yeah, I'm backwards. Sounds like your screw is in too much. Try unscrewing it about a quarter turn and see if it gets better.
....damn dyslexia... :rolleyes:
 
My thought was the further the screw is turned in the further it pushes the plates. I’ll give it another go tomorrow and try turning it out,
 
In between fall yard work and drizzling rain I did an adjustment check and it was over adjusted. Backed it off to where it just made contact and then another 1/8 turn, no slop at the perch. It did improve slightly but I still want to look under that cover. Judging from the weather we’ve been having I can take my time. I also checked for leaks around the intake boots and none found. My next suspect there could be throttle shaft sealsI can’t remember what was done to these carbs2 yrs ago. Lol
 
Last edited:
All I do to stop the centerstand from "clanging" on the muffler is slip a piece of heater hose on the tang. Simple and it works well. Being so far back from the engine, the muffler doesn't get hot enough to melt the hose .....

Braced Stand2.JPG


Tang Rubber.jpg
 
Now that I’ve completed making all my Christmas gifts.(sending homemade this year) And we’ve got several inches of snow on the ground I wanted to get back to the bike. I’m going to be in Fla in March and would like to have it ready. I have several things to do. The seat needs an attachment bracket, the carbs need work and I have a few other odds and ends to look at. First up the seat. I found an aftermarket which was the perfect size but of course it just has the generic pan with crappy attachment hardware. The rubbers don’t make contact with the frame very well so rubbers and a bracket are in order. In the pic I circled where the bracket needs to go as I want to use the factory latch. Several of the rubber locations will work but I had to extend them. Circled in red are rubbers that rest on the battery and I wanted to not really have that happenIMG_2759.jpeg I needed rubber for parts so I went to my best possible source. My puck bag lol. No shortage of Hockey pucks around here….I had a piece of 3/16 bar stock for the main bracket and fanned a hook for the latch out of some thinner plate. It shaped up nicely and I glued my rubbers to the pan with a special plastic friendly epoxy. I think it’s gonne work but only time will tell.IMG_6843.jpegIMG_6844.jpegIMG_6845.jpegIMG_6846.jpegimage.jpg. the plan is one side of the brackets slips under the frame and the opposite side latches. Test fitting proved successful, I’m just glad it’s all under the seat lol. A little paint and some rubber padding strips to protect the frame paint and I think it’s good.
 
Last edited:
So I’ve had the carbs off twice trying to run down what is causing the L carb to run poorly. I’ve checked and replaced all the seals but it still acts like it’s got an air leak. I also get revving and zero throttle use. I can pull the left plug and the right side will idle and I can actually adjust the mix. Left side gets little response from the mix screw so I’m starting to think it may be a bad carb? A little history. When I got my ‘76 all the carb parts were in a box with enough parts and a spare set of bodies. I didn’t do the reassembly but had issues with the left carb from the beginning. I eventually stole the set off my bobber and have been running them since. Now I’m putting things back together and am still having issues with this set of carbs. I’ve been through them several times, cleaned and checked all the passages and hardware, replaced all the gaskets and seals and am still having issues so I think a replacement carb may be in order. It’s just slightly a bigger PITA than normal because on this ‘72 frame you have to pull the intake boots to get the carbs in and out.
 
Before I get into another set of carbs, when I was looking at the set I’m having issues with while the bike was running I noticed I could get some response from the R slide with a little throttle play but nothing from the L. I’m assuming it’s because of the air issue as I inspected the diaphrams and they have no holes or cracks so I’m wondering about changing the diaphram rubbers. I’ve watched a few vids on it and it seems to be easy enough with the replacements being readily available. Anyone have success with the replacements?
 
Before I get into another set of carbs, when I was looking at the set I’m having issues with while the bike was running I noticed I could get some response from the R slide with a little throttle play but nothing from the L. I’m assuming it’s because of the air issue as I inspected the diaphrams and they have no holes or cracks so I’m wondering about changing the diaphram rubbers. I’ve watched a few vids on it and it seems to be easy enough with the replacements being readily available. Anyone have success with the replacements?
Had a tiny hole in one of my slide rubbers. I replaced both of the entire slide units including rubber from Yambits.co.uk. The new ones worked well enough. I have now restored the original using RTV sealant as the hole in my unit was minute; may well reinsert the original ones at some point. I didn't fancy messing with delicate rubber and glue!
 
I replaced both of the entire slide units including rubber
If I don’t have to replace the whole unit I would rather not if I can just replace the rubber. I was just wondering had anyone done it and the difficulty level.
 
I had really terrible running - turned out to be a tiny hole in the rubber diaphragm. You could only see it by holding up to the light and stretching the diaphragm. Main symptom was, the bike would not take throttle, just bogged down. Replaced the slides and rubbers, problem resolved. Easy job.
 
In between the Holiday festivities and weather I’m setting up to see what I have with the spare carb set. I’ve been wanting to try out the little Ultrasonic tank I acquired. It’s only big enough to fit one carb body at a time but it worked really well.IMG_6863.jpegIMG_6865.jpegIMG_6864.jpeg I was pulling out the mains and pilot jets using a heat gun and lube and I have a ground down screwdriver I use but I must have not gotten it all the way down in the last pilot because I freakin cam’d it out and ruined it. Tried the reverse drill bit, don’t want to use a tap method and that failed to remove it so I tried a cheap easy-out. TaDaaa. Success! IMG_6861.jpegIMG_6862.jpegI started a cart at Niche cycle with stock replacements but I’m not pulling the plug because I might run into something else.
 
Got a new set of carbs built and I did find a couple of things. I replaced the o-rings on the needle jet tube, adjusted one set of floats, put some silicon grease on the diaphragms ad made sure all the hardware was correct. It was too late to start the bike when I got them back on so hopefully the rain will stop tonight and I can see how this is gonna work out.
 
For pilots, I use these 4mm metric bits. They're nearly a perfect fit but a little grinding makes them so ......

4mmBits2.jpg


4mmBits3.jpg


Then some penetrating oil, a bit of heat, and most importantly, a T-handles bit holder, and I haven't encountered one I couldn't get out yet .....

JetRemoval.jpg



JetRemoval2.jpg


JetRemoval3.jpg
 
I really thought I had a ground down screwdriver somewhere but I put it somewhere where I wouldn’t lose it. That didn’t work out. After I boogerd up the one pilot I just ground down another screwdriver. The T-handle is a good idea.
 
Alrighty, several things to report. I turned on the gas and it starting pouring out of the L side carb that I had just gone through and replaced. WTF! I had checked the float level and it was spot on 25mm. I did start the bike to run what I could out of the lines and it did run very good compared to what I had. Pulled the carbs back off and the float level was still really close so I pulled the float and shook it. Yep I got a leaker, float test confirmed.IMG_6878.jpeg
I checked another set I had and they passed so a swap/set and back on the bike they go. Petcock on and no leak! Yay! Bike started right up and runs great on the L side but I’m getting a little popping out of the R side now. Pull the R wire bike still runs, pull the L and it dies. What a PITA this has been. I’m getting closer and learning a lot in the process. I need to figure out what I did and if it was me although I am the common denominator here. I wonder how it would run with the air boxes installed as the R carb was giving me absolutely no issues before.
 
Last edited:
Alrighty, several things to report. I turned in the gas and it starting pouring out of the L side carb that I had just gone through and replaced. WTF! I had checked the float level and it was spot on 25mm. I did start the bike to run what I could out of the lines and it did run very good compared to what I had. Pulled the carbs back off and the float level was still really close so I pulled the float and shook it. Yep I got a leaker, float test confirmed.View attachment 258473
I checked another set I had and they passed so a swap/set and back on the bike they go. Petcock on and no leak! Yay! Bike started right up and runs great on the L side but I’m getting a little popping out of the R side now. Pull the R wire bike still runs, pull the L and it dies. What a PITA this has been. I’m getting closer and learning a lot in the process. I need to figure out what I did and if it was me although I am the common denominator here. I wonder how it would run with the air boxes installed as the R carb was giving me absolutely no issues before.
Been there done that and .... Errr.... Still there.:umm:
 
The only thing I didn’t have my hand in was that RH carb body. Changing the LH fixed that issue so perhaps changing the other one will help. Maybe I just had a junk set….
 
Last edited:
Back
Top