Project Bobber X2.2 the rework.

Two days of crappy weather saved me from the yard work the foreman had lined out for me so I had some good days in the garage. I needed a chain guard and since one for this bike is unobtanium at a reasonable price I reached into the parts stash and grabbed the TX500 guard. I had to do a little bending on the rear mount to move it out a bit and the front mount was different. I ground off the forward mount on the frame, drilled and tapped for a M6 and used a rubber grommet for vibration. It went pretty easy. IMG_6668.jpegIMG_6669.jpeg I’m waiting on the handlebar controls which should be here tomorrow so I can hook up and check all the wiring. I have some aftermarket bullet blinkers with running and tail light circuit so I need to build a harness for those. I also installed my exhaust today. I had thought about going with some tapered shorties but after looking at the baffle, or lack of, I decided they might have a little too much bark!IMG_6672.jpeg I ended up putting a set of Commandos on which I pretty sure me and my neighbors will like. Did a few mock-ups with different seats, tried a solo, a Cafe and a stock seat I have that needs to be recovered. I think for now the Cafe seat wins out.71744881629__B5CD3D1D-AF84-4045-A6A2-DC5396AD34D7.jpeg
 
Struggled today. The F’ing LH switch of course is different and my dumb-ass never noticed there is no on/off switch for the lights but there is a “P” button which when pressed feeds power like a horn button. It’s not a horn button it’s right above this button. Of course there’s no description for XS Performance products anywhere. lol I might be using a newer RH switch now after all.IMG_6677.jpegIMG_6675.jpeg
 
The beemer I just picked up has the "pass" button. I really like it.
I call it the "flash the high beam at the dumbass fixin' to pull out in front of me"... button. :smoke:
 
Struggled a little today with the wires. Using a ‘76 style control with a start button incorporated and an on/off switch for the lights. At one point I had them working fine, then I don’t know what happened but I lost them also had power to the ignition but couldn't get the starter to engage when the button was pushed, noticed a coil getting warm so I unplugged the points while tracing. I did do continuity and had it all the way to the connector at the solenoid. Got fed up and took a break I’ll try again tomorrow. One thing that is odd. There is a blue/black coming out of the RH control with the ‘76 diagram showing that running to the other control for the dimmer. The new control on the LH side has blue/black also but does not show that on the ‘72 diagram, it shows the two connected with a blue wire. I’m thinking the two blue/black should be connected?
https://www.xs650.com/attachments/7...-colour-aaaaa-g-text-15-a1-robinc-jpg.136328/
https://www.xs650.com/attachments/d-75_76_xs650-b-c-wiring-and-key-updated-3a-jpg.125040/
 
If I’m thinking this through correctly, both blue/black need to be powered so I’m thinking they both should be plugged into a blue connection. Plugging them together is just a wire.
 
You need power in at the on/off sw. From there it jumps across (blue/black maybe?) to the bright/dim sw.
 
I figured it out. The blue/ black from the RH switch is not needed. Plugging the LH side not blue had everything working. I just needed power to the dimmer. Wife asked me what I was doing out in the garage in my underwear lol. Now I just need to diagnose the solenoid issue. I actually have a new one on the shelf if need be.
 
On a '75/'76 scheme, blue/bk runs from headlight switch to power IN on the Dimmer. The blue/bk is fed from Red/Y in headlight switch that comes from key switch
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Correct JP the issue was I’m using the ‘72 ignition so power feed after the switch is blue
IMG_2580.png
 
Power to the headlight on/off is the red/yellow from the ign. sw. on the '72 diagram. That blue wire is for the "Park" function and tail light power.
 
Right Jim but after the on/off power out to the dimmer is blue. The ‘72 has no blue/black and this repop LH control has blue/black for the dimmer and yellow/red for the park switch. That’s what happens when you mix and match…..
 
Frustrating day today but mostly self inflicted. I ran continuity checks and everything was fine. Blue/white worked perfect through the switch to the solenoid so I decided to use a test light to check power feeds. My problem began when I hooked up a jumper because my lead wasn’t long enough from the battery to the headlight. I checked, checked my checks checked again but could not get a good reading on power anywhere! WTF, did the continuity checks again and everything is fine, then I realized something. I checked my jumper extension and yep, POS went in the scrap bucket! Got a new lead and YAY! Power everywhere it’s supposed to be. Time to search a few threads.
 
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I can jumper the starter relay and the starter spins I need to trace the circuit up to the safety relay. If that proves good then I must assume it’s the starter relay. Luckily I have a spare but is there a way to test it?
 
You should see power at red/white at solenoid when start button pressed. That would at least tell you the safety relay is working on ititial start.

edit: that was a bit of a "duh" comment. Are you working off a particular year wiring diagram?
 
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You should see power at red/white at solenoid when start button pressed. That would at least tell you the safety relay is working on ititial start.
You should see 12VDC on red/W when the key is on (always hot w/key on)
 
Is blue/white showing contuinity to ground when start button pushed?
 
I’m working off the ‘72-73 diagram and yes, continuity to ground when starter button pushed also have 12v on the R/W wire at the coils. Tomorrow I’ll follow it a little farther downstream but so far it all checks.
edit: main diagram 72-73, RH control 75-76
 
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