Skimming discs and braided brake line questions

Splodge

XS650 Enthusiast
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Hi
Is it worth or possible getting XS650 brake discs skimmed, mine looks like an AC-DC single?
I think they are made of stainless steel.
Because I did not get the brake line splitter with my bike I was thinking it might be best to get a single braided hose made up.
I wondered if anybody else had previously measured the length needed for the Heritage Special or any other model with custom type bars as my bars and caliper are not currently fitted.
 
The thick discs on an XS can be refinished using a surface grinder , the local engine rebuilder does mine. I have also bead blasted a disc that wasn't too bad and it came up ok. Note it was bead blasting not sand.

Braided steel lines are available in different lengths, the ends have O rings that enable you to screw the correct angle banjo on , they tighten with a nut and are DOT approved and accepted by our vehicle testing stations. The process is get the banjo fittings, fit them to the MC and caliper, measure the length allowing for fork sag , buy the hose and assemble. Here is a link to the NZ agent there will be one in the UK.

http://www.eurobike.co.nz/products/101-b_and_h_global_brake_hose_and_.aspx
 
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since we don't know what bars you have, mount them use a piece of fuel line or other rubber tube to mock up a route mark it and measure.
 
I recently learned something. After you have the rotors Blanchard ground or whatever you call it, you get them cryogenic treatment. They're case hardened with liquid nitrogen. The never look like an AC DC record again!
 
since we don't know what bars you have, mount them use a piece of fuel line or other rubber tube to mock up a route mark it and measure.
Gomez's pet names for Morticia also of the same affectionate meaning are "Cara Mia" (Italian), "Querida"/"Querida Mia" (Spanish), "Cara Bella" (Spanish literally for "beautiful face"; Italian for "beautiful darling").
 
I have resurfaced discs in a lathe, with good results. On my RD350A, the disc was warped, maybe 0.10 or 0.20 mm (4 to 8 "thou"). This made the brake really grabby, and the brake lever pulsated badly.
After facing both sides in the lathe, all runout was gone, and it looked and worked like new.
 
I have resurfaced discs in a lathe, with good results. On my RD350A, the disc was warped, maybe 0.10 or 0.20 mm (4 to 8 "thou"). This made the brake really grabby, and the brake lever pulsated badly.
After facing both sides in the lathe, all runout was gone, and it looked and worked like new.

Wait just a minute arcticXS, you can't just say you "did it" we gotta have some details!

I can't swing a rotor in my ancient 9" South Bend I through bolt an unloved mag to my welding table with some 1/2" all thread. (table has a hole with a 1/2 nut welded to the back side) Bolt a rotor on it and sand with 4" flex pads in the angle grinder. The wheel spins, held back slightly with a gloved hand, so far 8 or 10 rotors have come out just fine. Basically I work til the score, wear marks are gone. Fairly fine pads, the coarse ones leave scratches deeper than I am comfortable with.
 
I learned something new this year. If you have your rotors surfaced on a Blanchard grinder or whatever it's called, and it has no cracks in it, you can have cryogenic treatment. I saw what it does. It's amazing. The pads won't put a mark on them again. Google it. There's a place near be that does it.
 
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