Spark plugs, what kind. The new oil thread.

[TFR Aussie]

I have been running B8ES NGK plugs in my 1975 B but I now have a 1972 engine in it and while looking to see if I needed different plugs noticed people are running BP7ES plugs in a lot of models. My Haynes manual say's that is only for the C model.
Are people running the Projector type to get a better burn? Obviously the extra length isn't a clearance problem.
I have standard '75 mufflers and XS performance air filters fitted with a Boyer system and Mosfet reg.

 

[grizld1]

The projected nose puts the business end of the plug farther into the intake stream for better cooling and this expands the effective heat range of the plug. If Haynes claims that the BP7ES is is correct only in the C engine, Haynes is wrong. Is NGK still producing the nonresistor BP7ES? Rumor has it that only the BPR7ES is currently being produced, but maybe NGK still offers the nonresistor plugs in venues other than North America.

If you really want to know if the heat range of your plugs is right for your motor, go to https://www.strappe.com, click on the Tech button, click on the spark plug icon, and read the best thing ever written on plug reading by Gordon Jennings, the old master of tuning and the written word.

 

[gggGary]

Not always noted in this NGK series the heat range is reverse of what you might expect; an 8 is colder than a 7
The BP7ES is widely available in europe or switch to non resistor plug caps and use the BPR7ES
I use 7's in all years of XS, including thousands of miles on a 70, also a couple motors that, ahem, needed close minding of the crankcase oil level. No issues.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/y...?ref=af902033f5c6a960fceb996d7f123db2384d0b8d

 

[hovel]

I don't think spark plug brand is important, everyone has a favorite and cross reference charts abound. I think a conventional ignition system (points/condenser) will work best with no resistance in the system at all. Spark plug heat range has to do with the amount of electrical energy heat that is transferred to the cylinder head. A cold plug has a shorter porcelain around the center electrode and therefore transfers more of its heat to the head so the plug runs colder. I run the coldest non-resistor conventional tip plug I can get away with. I like to cut back the negative electrode some to expose more of the center electrode, kinda like the old Champion 'J' series plugs. Old, old hot rod trick.

 

[Grewth]

I've heard lots of horror stories that the bargain NGK plugs found online are often counterfeit.
Cosmetically they are perfect replicas of the genuine article, but performance and durability may not be.
Makes getting a true evaluation of NGK performance difficult
Maybe someone who knows how to spot a cloned plug (I certainly don't) could start a thread to educate the rest of us

 

[Jim]

Maybe someone who knows how to spot a cloned plug (I certainly don't) could start a thread to educate the rest of us