Starter button intermittently kaput, also bike sputters and dies. Not solenoid or safety relay

larrynyc

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1975 XS650. Fully stock head-to-toe, except a Pamco + e-advancer, and a solid-state regulator/rectifier.

Last year, I had this weird issue where every once in a blue moon the starter button wouldn’t work. I would push it, and either absolutely nothing happened, or I would hear a click. So I would just kick it. The starter gremlin eventually happened more often, to the point of where the starter button did not work 9/10 times. So I was kickstart-only for about a year. Bike always ran fine otherwise. Got really, really good at kickstarting!

So two months ago, I thought I should finally fix the starter issue by pulling out the safety relay and cleaning the contact. It already looked clean, weird. I simply put it back. It seemed to work because now everything worked fine.

But then two weeks ago, the start button stopped working intermittently again. OK, I thought, it may be the solenoid, I’ll get around to it soon. But then last week, the bike sputtered and died at idle in traffic. Starter button not working either, as in, no click, no response, nothing. Kicked it, but it was way more stubborn than usual. It kept sputtering. I found that revving it kept it “awake,” managed to get it home by keeping the revs above 2K. It sputtered very similar to having clogged carbs. So, I thought, OK, clogged carbs and a bad solenoid.

Cleaned the carbs, swapped the solenoid and the relay. Started right up, then when I revved, the bike gurgled then died. Pressed start again — no response at all. Kicked it, nothing. Waited a minute, start button suddenly works again, bike idles fine but sputtered, gurgled when revved, cylinders unevenly took turns not firing, then died.

These symptoms are really bizarre. The symptoms at first glance *act* like a combination of a dirty start button + clogged carbs + fouled plugs. But it’s not that.

I know this has to be an electrical issue, but I don’t know where to look. One thought could be the Pamco wiring, but that doesn’t explain the start button. Is it the main harness? Is it wiring near the kill switch? Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!



PS: Here are all the things I troubleshooted below —


Probably not the Pamco, coil, plug cables or anything to do with timing. This is because the symptoms have usually been at the point of starting, as starter button doesn’t even respond sometimes.
Probably not the starter button itself, because the problem also happens when kickstarted, plus the horn works and the starter button *does* work sometimes.
Not the spark plugs. Bought new plugs.
Not the carbs. I cleaned the hell out of them, twice. They’ve also always have been synced and tuned to a T.
Not the grounding of the handlebars. The horn always works solidly.

Not the battery or its direct connections. I tried a fresh, new battery, triple-checked its connections.
Not a fuse issue, bike uses just one fuse for everything.
Not the solenoid. I bought a brand new replacement.
Not the safety relay. I bought a fresh N.O.S. replacement.
Not the key ignition assembly. Bought a replacement.
 
How well is your charging system working? A low battery because of the charging system not working can cause issues such as you describe.
Leo
 
The starter button problem may be with the button itself. It has one large contact on it that connects when you push it. Maybe it's all corroded. You say the handlebar ground is good but maybe the connection that transfers it to the starter button is not. The clip that holds the wiring into the switch housing is the main ground transferring point .....

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XSLeo — I just put in a brand new battery and it still did the same thing. The alternator brushes are about a year old. Stator coils in good order. The aftermarket solid-state regulator/rectifier is about 5 years old.

If the regulator/rectifier went bad, would it cause the starter button to not respond (no click at all)?
 
5Twins — if it’s the button itself, does power flow through it as the bike runs? I ask because the dying issue also happens when kickstarted. If the power does in fact all go through that right control, no matter how the bike is started, and it would cause the bike to sputter, this hopefully may be where the gremlin is living!
 
The start button is just a ground for the starter relay.
The charging system can have many different issues, not just the reg/rec.
Check voltage at the battery when the bike is running.
The coils and rotor draw a lot of juice from the battery. This draws the voltage available to the ignition down. Even with a new battery this can happen.
You can fully charge the battery, unplug the reg/rec. Start the bike. With the reg/rec unplugged the ignition gets full voltage.
If it runs right your charging system has issues. Use the charging system guide to trouble shoot the system. You may find a poor connection. Only way is to do the tests in the guide.
Leo
 
When attempting a start, have the seat open, grab and wiggle the ground strap. Seen some ground straps that "looked" good that were corroded to fine gray powder inside. check that engine to frame grounds up at the head engine mount are in place and correctly located. If you still have a glass fuse; put in a new one. check blue white bullet connector at solenoid. try a jumper wire to ground from that connector. check that red white wire there is getting a solid 12 volts, a headlight makes a good 12 volt checker, better than a meter in some ways.
 
Pardon the delay — I had a lot of work this week, and I ordered a new right hand control. I wanted to replace the right hand control anyway, as the original one was beat up. I found a really clean NOS control on eBay. Thought I would install it as I did my troubleshooting.

So first I installed a brand new, super-thick 4-gauge cable as the ground strap. Didn't solve the issue. Then, as I was taking out the old right-hand control, lo and behold ... the connector on brown wire fell apart as I gave a gentle tug. This brown wire was the culprit the whole time! If I'm not mistaken, the brown wire links to the kill switch. So my thinking is, every time I pressed the start button, or revved the engine, it was equivalent to flicking the kill switch to off because the frayed brown wire couldn't handle the increased flow of power.

Since I had the NOS switch installed, with all nice and clean connectors, the bike runs perfectly now. Thanks everyone!

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