Suzuki Carb Parts for Our 650 Carbs

5twins

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A couple of these have been mentioned before, the butterfly shaft seals and the brass floats for the 1980 BS34s .....

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..... but I've discovered some others and would like to share. Here's a Suzuki parts diagram from Part Shark showing most of them .....

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Part #16 is, of course, the butterfly shaft seal. At around $1.50, it's quite the bargain especially since Yamaha's price recently spiked big time, more than tripling from a retail of $5.99 to $18.50. Even discounted from Partzilla or Part Shark, you'd still have to give $12 to $14 for one. The next two parts on the list, #17 and #18, are pure "unobtainium" from Yamaha, they don't even show or list them. #17, what Suzuki calls a "Gasket", is actually the plastic washer you'll find on the BS34 butterfly shafts. I was delighted to find this part as they are often pretty beat up and in need of replacement .....

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Part #18 is the e-clip fitted on the outside end of the right BS34's butterfly shaft, another part I was delighted to find. They are often pretty crusty and rusty. Here's one compared to an original and it is, indeed, an exact match .....

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Part #26, the float bowl gasket, may seem expensive at a bit over $6, but it's not compared to Yamaha's $38 retail price. Part #28, the rubber plug for the pilot jet, is also a few dollars cheaper from Suzuki. But both of these parts can be found cheaper from the aftermarket on eBay.

Part #34, the retaining plate for the BS34 float needle seat, I sort of struck out on. Usually, when you look a part up on Partzilla, they have a picture of it. For this one they didn't, so I just went by the drawing, and it let me down, lol. Here's what the part really looks like .....

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But even though there was no way it would fit with the extra tab on the side, at least the cutout and mounting hole matched .....

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So, I was able to cut it down and make it fit pretty easily .....

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But, I wasn't giving up on finding this part yet, lol. There were several others offered that did show pictures in their listing, and this one looked to be a match compared to an original I measured, just under 5/8" long .....

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..... and it is, matching up and fitting perfectly .....

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Next up on the list, replacement plastic floats for the BS34s. From researching, I figured these had to be the ones, but the only way to know for sure was to buy some. On a recent 1980 BS34 refurb, the original brass floats were shot from sitting coated in gas varnish for 20+ years. It had eaten holes in them and they failed the hot water dip test. I recommended the guy switch to the plastic floats as they can't do that since they're a solid plastic foam. Basically, they should never go bad. Plus, they're a couple dollars cheaper than the brass replacements. And we have a winner. These are the same float, an exact match in every respect. Here's one compared to an original .....

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One of the things you look for in a replacement plastic float is whether or not the pivot pin hole has a tube sleeve insert .....

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Many aftermarket ones do not and that makes for a sloppy, loose fit on the pivot pin. The float can hang up and stick in operation, and often does. The Suzuki float has the tube insert so it's good .....

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And last on the list, #37, is the float hinge pin, and I quite like this one. Much cheaper than the Yamaha one and , in my opinion, it's better .....

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The Yamaha pin is stepped up under the head and won't insert fully. You need to tap it in with a small hammer to get it fully installed. This can make it difficult to remove, running the risk of breaking a pivot post off .....

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The Suzuki pin isn't like that, not stepped out under the head much, if at all. It easily inserts nearly all the way, then a couple gentle taps with a small hammer seats it fully and "sticks" it in place .....

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But even if it didn't "stick" in there, there's no worries about it backing out. When you install the float bowl, the pin and posts fit into this area .....

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..... and that effectively blocks the pin in so it can't back out.
 
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Good stuff 5T. That price jumping on the Yamaha branded shaft seals is bugging the crap out of me.
Fer sher on swapping to plastic floats.
Sure wish there was that option for BS38s!
Plastic floats CAN die, they sometimes leak and become fuel soaked. Not real common but I've seen it.
Weight is usually a tip off. A bad one will FEEL heavy.
Copied that post over to https://www.xs650.com/threads/the-g...-on-the-xs650-thread.51957/page-4#post-728065.
 
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As a side comment

That one a $ 6 + ? $ 3 - 4 freight
I would ( try ) manufacture myself from a strip of metal
it is 2 holes to drill and a hacksaw ( perhaps not needed even ) a little filing and a plane object if i understand it right and has no
tight tolerances.


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Thanks fellas, I thought you'd appreciate this info. By all means Gary, link or copy this info to that seal and gasket thread. I, too, was very surprised by the Yamaha butterfly shaft seal price increase. I expect prices to gradually rise on parts but not huge jumps like that. I checked a few other common seals we replace (clutch pushrod, camshaft ends) and thankfully, they haven't spiked, neither has the cam chain price.

My "go-to" place for parts has now become Part Shark because of their better prices. I only include Partzilla listings here for illustration purposes as they usually provide pictures of the part and Part Shark does not.
 
Tried to place an order for 4 shaft seals from Part Shark. See their international shipping charges and delivery dates. Yikes!
 

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Sent an inquiry to a local dealer. Last time I used Partzilla they were expensive and it took 6 weeks to get my parts. If the local dealer can’t help I’ll look at them again.
 
The Canadian Mafia is a loose group of members that.... how can I say this.... get parts across the border by alternative means. I can neither confirm nor deny that I've dealt with them... or even know of their existence. ;)
Having said all that, PM me if you need help getting those parts.
 
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Sent an inquiry to a local dealer. Last time I used Partzilla they were expensive and it took 6 weeks to get my parts. If the local dealer can’t help I’ll look at them again.


If it’s a genuine part I always get em from the local dealer. No shipping charge and usually ready for pick up in a day or 2.
 
I didn't bokmark it and cant remember exactly where i read it..........Whats the point then, lol

There is a guy in the states who on posts to Canada and he saves the buyer a heap of money. Don't know how he does it but as i remember it he bypasses some thing that keeps the rates down and he openly admits he makes good money and the buyer save a heap as well.

Sorry, been looking for it, and will post more info if i find it.
 
Sometimes one can get lucky at a Industrial hardware parts supplier
Many of the items used on a motorcycle are not MC specific as seals and O -rings
More often than not the Manufacturer Mikuni or Yamaha in this case Buys the seals from a company specialized on that
But that company that are into seals also sells them to other applications
The hardware company might ask " How many hundreds Do you need ? "
But not always. If you have the seal in hand or better ---found the specs online
If there is a part supplier around he perhaps can find it and at 1/5 or better price.
Sorry if off topic
 
Sent an inquiry to a local dealer. Last time I used Partzilla they were expensive and it took 6 weeks to get my parts. If the local dealer can’t help I’ll look at them again.
Bosco, I just went through this when looking to purchase some new idle mix screws, the dealer quoted me around $36 taxes in for the two I needed, partzilla after shipping and exchange rate was around $40, they would take longer to get to me but they would come to my door. Partshark may be cheaper but the minimum $35 for shipping scared me off. However I contacted partshark and they said that all shipping charges would be calculated after you place the order and that you could still decline the order if it was too high. Also, with both partshark and partzilla it's not clear to me whether or not I would be charged any additional duty or taxes when they cross the border.

At the end of the day I haven't purchased the idle mix screws yet.
 
"The Yamaha pin is stepped up under the head and won't insert fully. You need to tap it in with a small hammer to get it fully installed. This can make it difficult to remove, running the risk of breaking a pivot post off ....."

I squeeze mine in with plier jaws on the head and on the same post, so there's no risk of breaking. If I remember right, part of the bowl casting prevents it from moving enough to come out of the far post, even if it was loose (BS34). Good work on this!
 
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