The new life of a 72' XS II - Build thread

[Jan_P]

Following this method I measured 0.20-0.35 mm side-play all around, which further confirms that the valves are done for.
View attachment 262851
Monday I’ll call a few shops to hear what they’ll charge to change valves and guides, before I start doing it myself.

Good thing I’m not doing this as a business, there’s no way restoring and maintaining old bikes makes economic sense unless it has an emotional and curious learning value

Ringsted Motor can have parts
And Rudiger
https://www.xs650shop.de/en/cylinde...e-guide-intake-xs-performance?number=05-11133

I have been thinking about the economics of this
It can be costly but also cheap , Most do this as a Hobby and Quality Time ..Having some tools interest and experience.
For me it is Quality Time Sunshine-- Rock and Roll Music ..Trying to solve it
But if you have the Time Which many have these days .. Not least Young persons with no jobs.
I have been riding on the Cheap every Year the last 40.

But yes Shops here don't even take in old Machines .
Electrical problems fex Many Hours charging the Costumer and then he comes back Complaining

 

[Heinz Ketchup]

Ringsted motor has been my go-to for many parts, being the only shop here in Denmark that stocks xs parts and can ship from day to day.
But like many others, I shop where i can get the parts the cheapest if there's no deadline.

I always prefer to do the jobs myself on my bike, despite sometimes costing the same, often less, but always taking more time while learning, but I'm currently doing my masters degree in engineering, while juggling two jobs, planning the local DGR ride as primary host and dealing with the great personal loss, of losing my father in a motorcycle accident in november. So prioritizing my mental health has been a growing concern lately.
While working on my bike is meditative for me, we all need to prioritize spending time with family and personal time to recover, why i need to get this bike back on the road so i can feel the wind around me and the vibrations through my hands, only to rest in my hammock between two trees with my bike next to me and an IPA in my hand.

Luckily there's a several workshops around Aarhus, Denmark, who specialize in building race bikes from the 60's-80's, shipping them all over Europe, surprising considering the salaries we demand here, but it does seem like some of this is off the book heheh.
The knowledge the old-timers have is amazing though.

I noticed Getor.de has the valves for about 92€ total plus shipping, some 40€ cheaper than the earlier mentioned, then i just need guides and the work itself. Depending on the price the shops charge, I'll se if I'd rather do it myself as parts would amount to about 200-250€ with new gaskets and all.

 

[Heinz Ketchup]

Had a workshop doublecheck measurements and the valve guides are good he ordered some new valves for me, the valve seats were also recut and the joint surface cut flat.

The left side piston rings seems to also need replacing, which is a struggle as I have third oversize (0.75) which I can’t for the 256 engine anywhere.. I’ve found a single set on eBay from the uk - ruling out anything from the states as it would be cheaper to have them made here

Already looked at cruizinimage, Heiden, xs650shop, ringstedmotor, cmsnl and eBay

I’ve assembled everything and hope to find the rings soon and then replace the current

 

[Jan_P]

Not much product info
But why not ask ---they can have connections

https://www.twins-inn.com/epages/78...ops/78210236/Categories/Zylinder_Kolben_Ringe

 

[Heinz Ketchup]

Today I received a new piston kit, shift shaft, dowel pins, oil pipe base fitting, clutch hub-bearing, clutch pushrod ball, clutch pushrod bushing, cam needle bearing.
Lovely costly batch.

View attachment 115022

Just made a pleasant discovery, I remembered that some of the 256 piston kits I’ve seen when looking for rings, where made to use the 447 rings, thank god for posting on this forum when I bought my kit, I didn’t have to go back through my albums through the years - it rather clearly states 447 piston rings on the box, which are way easier to get a hold off

 

[Heinz Ketchup]

Removed the engine over the weekend, replaced the piston rings, noticed I had put them on upside down last time, so I would assume that could be the cause for the excessive oil consumption - at least I read that the notch on one side should point towards the top of the piston, otherwise the edge helps oil in rather than out of the cylinder, as one side is beveled.

The cylinder sleeves seem to already have worn somewhat smooth, meaning they should potentially be honed at some point.

I noticed the rear wheel had acquired some slag, I took it out and found one side had “exploded”, missing a few balls, so I dropped it off at a shop to save time, should hopefully pick it up tomorrow
And they delivered the wheel back Thursday, giving me enough time to assemble most of the bike, just needing to adjust the chain and attach footpegs and others.
Just in time for Distinguished gentleman’s ride, must say it’s been requiring a lot of time to arrange our DGR, but I wish you all a good ride, attending your local DGR or not

 

[Jim]

at least I read that the notch on one side should point towards the top of the piston

As a general rule of thumb, if there's any marking on one side of a ring, that side goes up (toward the head).
I say "rule of thumb" because it's possible there's an engine out there that doesn't follow that rule, but in all my years of building engines, I never saw one that wasn't that way.

 

[Heinz Ketchup]

Putting new rings in the cylinders, the correct way, prove to be the solution for the excessive smoke.
Overall, the engine it’s finally starting to run well, though the carbs aren’t entirely dialed in yet.

A few weeks ago, the bike suddenly died on me while riding, lost power to anything but lights, I figured it was a lose connection somewhere, but the battery was completely drained, quite frustrated as I’ve gone through a few batteries over the past years.
This got me thinking that the batteries might not be the problem, leading me to find that the reg/rec was pulling current when plugged in.

Found a new reg/rec and ordered a lithium battery as I got a good discount meaning it was close to the same price as an acid battery.

The clutch just started to misbehave under loads, so new clutch bearings and also a few more jets to get the carbs finally dialed in.

As a more interesting aspect I’m trying to get into contact with the French “shock factory” that makes 2WIN SHOCKS, to get a pair made of either 340 or 350 mm, currently running 340 mm, but I haven’t heard back yet.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Nice pose, dude!

 

[Heinz Ketchup]

So I’ve changed the reg/rec to one off eBay which is for 75’-80’ which doesn’t quite make sense, it doesn’t pull current when plugged in like the old, and it seems good when testing for intermittent and resistance, the motorcycle starts but doesn’t charge, so I’m debating whether the reg/rec isn’t good or I just need to do the nylon screw mod.

Checked the clutch and had a few broken clutch plates and a few which were quite worn, so I measured them all out and made a complete set with some discs from an other used set I got when I was initially getting parts to complete the bike. Also got around to finally making a “clutch tool”.

I polished the rear fender which I by accident found out last year is stainless steel, despite bought as regular steel painted black, lucky me.
Next goal is to find a nice alu or polished ss front fender to potentially mount high.

During Black Friday I found a really great offer on the shock factory 2win shocks, so I’m thrilled to have bought a pair and mounted them last night - it’s a tight fit, just clearing the exhaust and chain when mounted with the body on the bottom, would have liked the other way around to get less unsprung weight and for the aesthetic, but sometimes things are determined by other factors.
I can’t wait to test them once the salt has washed away from the roads and we won’t get more snow.
I did go with 360 mm, why I might have to extend the front slightly to calm the steering, I didn’t have any problems riding 340mm, I rarely ride the 130km/h highway speeds, I tend to stick to <100 km/h on b roads and less in the gravel or off-road, but I will of course have to test to see the effects. (The new transparent grips with flakes might help with stability )

 

[Its been a long time]

I don't believe there's such a regulator rectifier that fits all years from 75 to 80? I tend to not believe eBay descriptions, I've been caught out too many times.

 

[Heinz Ketchup]

I don't believe there's such a regulator rectifier that fits all years from 75 to 80? I tend to not believe eBay descriptions, I've been caught out too many times.

There shouldn’t be, that’s why I’m mentioning the nylon screw mod, as that would be relevant for reg/rec made for 80 or newer models as far as I’m aware - the unit was so cheap I figured it was worth it to try it out, as it’s probably the same you would order from a more renowned shop, but with missing instructions and the gamble of not knowing if it was for the older or newer models

 

[Its been a long time]

There shouldn’t be, that’s why I’m mentioning the nylon screw mod, as that would be relevant for reg/rec made for 80 or newer models as far as I’m aware - the unit was so cheap I figured it was worth it to try it out, as it’s probably the same you would order from a more renowned shop, but with missing instructions and the gamble of not knowing if it was for the older or newer models

Indeed, understood. Hope you successfully sort it out.

 

[650Skull]

Have you read these.
If the reg/rect doesn't work out
https://www.xs650.com/threads/diy-reg-rec-5twins-and-jim.55842/

Freight might b a killer but a good descriptive of the charging system might b worth a read
https://www.xs650.com/threads/rewound-alternator-rotor.54276/

 

[Its been a long time]

Have you read these.
If the reg/rect doesn't work out
https://www.xs650.com/threads/diy-reg-rec-5twins-and-jim.55842/

Freight might b a killer but a good descriptive of the charging system might b worth a read
https://www.xs650.com/threads/rewound-alternator-rotor.54276/

That's a great thread. I built a new rectifier and regulator for my 650D from eBay parts. I think the rectifier was £4. The regulator was £12. Including new sub harnesses, the whole thing was around £20 or a bit more. I had never done that stuff before but the instructions gave me confidence in doing it. Bike charges great. Only other thing was fitting new brushes once I had done all the electrical checks on the rotor and stator.

 

[Heinz Ketchup]

Have you read these.
If the reg/rect doesn't work out
https://www.xs650.com/threads/diy-reg-rec-5twins-and-jim.55842/

Freight might b a killer but a good descriptive of the charging system might b worth a read
https://www.xs650.com/threads/rewound-alternator-rotor.54276/

Might have to double check the stator, I recall that I did test it, but I'm getting unsure..

I did read up on the diy reg/rec, but I can't find the components in europe, I'm still trying to find alternatives but no luck yet.
Otherwise the Rick's Electrics Reg/rec could potentially be an option, they state it's optimized for lithium batteries as well.

 

[Its been a long time]

Might have to double check the stator, I recall that I did test it, but I'm getting unsure..

I did read up on the diy reg/rec, but I can't find the components in europe, I'm still trying to find alternatives but no luck yet.
Otherwise the Rick's Electrics Reg/rec could potentially be an option, they state it's optimized for lithium batteries as well.

The components you need are readily available on eBay. The American references here for voltage regulators are hard to find. But there's loads of European ones available. There's a thread on here about me using a Lucas UCB502 regulator and a standard three phase bridge rectifier. I got both of them off eBay. Doing your own rectifier and regulator fix is highly recommended and cheap. Link -

https://www.xs650.com/threads/uk-source-voltage-regulator.65543/

 

[650Skull]

In Aus, a Bosh RE55 works with all points model bikes. Bridge rectifiers are cheap on eBay or a little more expensive through electrical suppliers. Here in Aus I had to buy mutipuls to get them cheap.

 

[Jan_P]

I have also used Bosch 3 pin regulator types for over 15 years
There are other brands .Was it Magneti Marelli last time

Some have looked like that

https://www.rotatingelectrics.co.uk...-bosch-3-pin-volvo-ford-bmw-wood-auto-vrg3639

There is a long list to what vehicles using them .There is a chance you can buy them over the Counter locally
Need to figure out what pin is for what .So it wont fry directly connecting

I wrap something around them vibration and water protection and have them in the slot for tools on the motorcycle
I Have also used car rectifier bridges but they are bulky SAAB .sometime
Some of those have a control lamp possibility for knowing when charging
But now I have a Voltmeter installed

..the other rectifier ones are probably better suited Smaller ...Overall the car components have higher ratings and I believe makes them more resilient

 

[Heinz Ketchup]

Thank you for the recommendations guys! This forum is really filled with knowledgeable and experienced folks.
Moved into a new wrench community again, sorta, we’ve had to move around a bit because we couldn’t find a landlord who accepted the things that come with a garage community, smell of gas, people wrenching at weird hours and such.

I tried measuring the rotor, first I got weird results measuring resistance between the two rings, getting between 7 and 10 ohm, then tried a different multimeter and got 5.4 ohm consistently, great - I’m looking to get a better multimeter for future tests.

Measuring resistance between the rings and the engine, I should according to the thread read infinity but I got 7.8 ohms, I tried unplugging the new reg/rec thinking there could be a short somewhere, but still the same.

Next up I’ll try to bypass the reg/rec via the green wire as stated in the thread on checking the electrical system, but the rotor is basically deemed dead now according to the thread because of the resistance between the rings and the engine.
I’ve been told the wires from the stator are a common weak point as well.