The Patience build.

Todays question would be asking about the diode that’s in the main harness, under the tank and next to the condenser mount. Does that have anything to do with the turn signals?
 
When you install the new plug caps, prep the ends of the wires like so. This will insure a good connection. Coil end of the wire should be done this way as well .....

View attachment 215670
I now do this too. Good idea or bad to apply dielectric grease to the end before screwing the cap on?
 
I know jet doesn't support using it but I have been for years without any issues. I put it on all my electrical connections, bulb bases too. For plug caps, I apply it in a few spots .....

PlugCapGrease.jpg
 
IIRC, it's the headlight.
I was wondering because when I turn the blinkers on something under the tank buzzes. That’s all I remember being under there besides condensers and I don’t think it’s them. When my RA filters come I’ll look under the tank and see.
 
Yes, they come up for sale from time to time, but why spend that much money when you already have perfectly good ones? So, you're thinking yours look rather ratty. I bought some new ones several years ago and within a very short time after installing them, they looked all ratty too, lol. I think the heat makes them look like that.
 
I don’t plan on getting different ones but I also didn’t think that price was awful considering it’s OEM. I’ve been on the hunt for the few odds and ends I need. YamahaXS650.com got another order from me yeasterday. I needed new side cover retaining clips. I saw the thread where the guy was making them from billet stick but it appears that was a one and done run.
 
Newest situation. New plug caps and gas filters came in so I picked up some wires, swapped them and the filters out and it started right up and idled but I noticed(before today) that I had a small lag when I twisted the throttle. I had thought it was possibly the wires but apparently not. When I revved it up it had way more vibration than I felt it should.What I really noticed was as I checked the pipes to see how cool they were to possibly pull the mufflers to get at the rear wheel. I noticed the right side was very hot but the left was cool. Pulling the plugs showed me this.049A51C6-6503-423F-90F1-055CA931315C.jpegE0447ABD-2D55-4093-B796-FAB7A3097653.jpeg22FA5CAD-5FD7-46A1-9919-5C44AD3216BE.jpeg
I’m getting good spark each side so what am I looking for now? I swapped the plugs to see if possibly that may be an issue but not so.
 
Looks like you fouled that left plug big time, lol. It probably won't work again until it air dries for a few hours. But if you clean it with electrical contact cleaner, you'll be able to use it again in about a minute.
 
I actually switched them to see if that was the issue and it still only fired on the left side with the right plug and not the right. I’m getting fire and fuel. What else could be going on?
 
I’m a little perplexed at my findings. So both plugs are firing, cylinders getting gas but only appears to be running on one. Just for my own interest I did a compression check. Right cylinder shows 148 while left shows 120. I know they will change slightly after break-in but why would one be so much higher? Could I be having a valve issue?
 
I got away from this for a day to think about this and I went back to basics. Spark/compression/fuel. The first two I knew I had from several tests so that led to only one thing. I started the bike and gave a couple whiffs of starting fluid on the left side carb. Instant rev so looks like the carbs are coming back off. I just love the “one step forward several back” phase of working on these older bikes.
 
If the carbs are badly out of sync, one cylinder could be effectively shut off at idle.
 
It looked ok but since I had the correct kits now I decided to go ahead and replace everything. Put the carbs back on and WTF problem moved to the opposite side. These carbs are not that complex so it should be something simple I’m missing. My idle is very high also and can’t seem to adjust it down.
 
If you can't turn the idle down enough, that's another indication the carbs are out of sync.
 
I synced the carbs with them on the bench using the “daylight” method then checking with a feeler gauge. Air/fuel mix screw at 1 1/2 turns out. I’m not real thrilled with my seal test on my diaphragms but they don’t have any holes and since it was idling and running beautifully on one cylinder I know they’re working.
 
After that last post I decided to swap the diaphragms just to see. It made a change but not much.
 
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