What have you done to your XS today?

With the MS35769 chart just so I understand what I see, the second column (after Part No#) has -2, -5, -6, etc.; it isn't skipping for the incremental increase per 1/16th of an inch, so what does the number mean? Thanks,
'TT'
I don't remember (if I ever knew) how to decipher a copper sealing washer part number. The number I listed was taken from an old post.
 
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Riding home from work yesterday i noticed a new light top end rattle at 3,500rpm ?.so I drained the oil when I got home and removed the base plate and filter. There was no metal filings in the filter or oil to indicate excessive wear so I just topped it up with new 20/50w oil. It doesn't sound like it's the tappets, more like one rattle but has a slight ticking at idle so I will probably check the tappets unless anyone has suggestions on what it may be i appreciate the feedback.
 
Christmas Day, Trued the rear wheel and torqued the spokes. Raised the shifter so I can get my fat foot under it. Puzzled over the bar situation, the xs replica bars I ordered have way to much pull back.
I have a set I believe are original, yours for the shipping.
 
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I am shit for attaching images. The bars are ~30 1/2 wide. The 12 oz beer cans give you a frame of reference. I am going to try the narrower black chrome on my bike. The chrome is not pitted and in nice shape. There are the normal (?) abrasions where the controls and switchgear have been mounted. My zip is 53083 for shipping.
 

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View attachment 203829 I am shit for attaching images. The bars are ~30 1/2 wide. The 12 oz beer cans give you a frame of reference. I am going to try the narrower black chrome on my bike. The chrome is not pitted and in nice shape. There are the normal (?) abrasions where the controls and switchgear have been mounted. My zip is 53083 for shipping.
Thank you Sir, those look just like the ones I have so I'm going to pass. I just purchased the set I have, I'm going to return them and try an early CB750 bend. I think I just mis-remembered what the early bars were like lol.
 
Adjusted the tappets, exhaust were both at .oo8thou 5000,ks after installing exchange head and cylinders and both inlet were still at .oops thou. Checked the cam chain adjustment first and it was fine even though it doesn't have a damper on it because if I install the damper the spring would need to be fully compressed for the push rod to be flush with the end of the adjuster. I am still looking for a complete E type adjuster to replace the bits I have always had in it since purchase 40yrs ago. Haven't ridden it yet but hopefully the top end rattle is gone.
 
Hey Yam Graveyard, I have a set of Cb750 replica bars with controls that I pulled the wiring internally on. Used them for mock up only and decided to go with a different bar setup. PM me if interested. I believe the control is setup for early dual cable operation. Would just need a dual cable throttle sleeve to work properly.
 
Even though my '78 specs .004" for the intakes, I couldn't use it because they ticked like crazy. Closing them up just .001" to .003" made them nice and quiet, so you might try that if you still have excess topend noise. Running without the copper damper washer on your cam chain adjuster probably isn't helping either. After all, it was put there to quiet things down.
 
Willis, you might want to re-think that plug wire routing, trapping them under the upper motor mount and sitting right on top of the hot motor, at least not without some sort of protective sleeve on them. They'll run nicely over the top of the mount, tucking in behind that short M10 bolt .....

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I also "liberate" the rubber protection sleeves from original plug wires for use on my new ones. Originally, they're quite long, covering almost the entire wire. I don't want that because I like to show off my new colored wires, so I take just one sleeve and cut it in half, putting half on each wire .....

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