What have you done to your XS today?

Sorry for the long post. :)


mine are longer :p

and this may help . the schematic is very basic but with the addition of a .001uf across each diode and possibly a 3.3to 4.7 K ohm resistor across them also you should have a fairly solid rectifier . Just pay attention to PIV and total wattage dissipation .

~kop
 

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The 79 resto mod went from this.

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to this

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Was an 18 x 2.15 stock rim with a half worn old 4.00 18 Conti go

Now a Pilot Activ 4.00 x 18 on a 2.50 x 18 MikesXS rim, Mikes SS spokes.
spiffed up the inside of the hub a bit while I had the spokes off. Got rid of the webs in the casting where the molds join and smoothed and polished the tops of the fins a bit.

Got a bit aggressive with a coarse sanding disc so did not get a mirror finish on the hub flanges. :doh:
The 2.5 18 rim is not drilled as a very good match to the XS rear hub. :eek: I was shocked, shocked, I tell you! I did some spoke hole filing and straightening but straight up, it needs more work. The rim did true up nicely. The spokes all fit perfectly quality was great and as I have seen from them lately there were 2 extra inner and outer spokes with nipples in the set.
I really like the way the 4.00 tire profile looks on the wider rim.

20150616_125032.jpg

Michelin recommends a 2.5 rim as the best size for the 4.00 18 tire.
Better part of three days to get it all done. Took it out for 80 miles of back road bombing tonight and am happy. I have the "matching" 100/90/19 Pilot Activ on a 2.15 mikes front rim. After 80 miles of spirited (but saw over 25 deer!) riding the chicken strips are narrower on the new tire than the old one. Handling seems good, I seem to have more confidence in how the bike feels leaned into corners. Having two new good quality matched tires might help that a bit too.

Last pic is a comparison of the 4.00 18 Pilot Activ with a Battlax BT45F 110/90/18 both are new.

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The 4.00 is nearly 3/4" bigger OD, it is a heavier, stiffer tire than the battlax also. The Activ tire was a challenge to mount even with my old Coats 200, being stiff and a bit small on the ID.

The rims are a slight mismatch as the front is flanged the 2.5 18 rear cannot be found flanged at a decent price.
 

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Junked the TCI unit etc..Fitted a spare Boyer I had knocking around. The bike is transformed! Instant start - first kick, smooth idle, revs up to the redline.
Love Boyers, got 'em on all my bikes now
:thumbsup:
 
Junked the TCI unit etc..Fitted a spare Boyer I had knocking around. The bike is transformed! Instant start - first kick, smooth idle, revs up to the redline.
Love Boyers, got 'em on all my bikes now
:thumbsup:

That's great news Lee! Well done!

Installed hydraulic clutch today, easy peasy(if you follow instructions, unlike me!)! Works a treat! Super smooth, and light, and to top it off, I can now find NEUTRAL!!!!

:D:D:D
 
Got a bit aggressive with a coarse sanding disc so did not get a mirror finish on the hub flanges. :doh:
The 2.5 18 rim is not drilled as a very good match to the XS rear hub. :eek: I was shocked, shocked, I tell you! ...
Once you start polishing its a slippery slope indeed ...:D

...The rims are a slight mismatch as the front is flanged the 2.5 18 rear cannot be found flanged at a decent price.

And the 19" no easier . My rare Borrani non CM deep drop center 18" has the same spoke angle mismatch and may be a bit of a unicorn . I did search as you did including vintage dirt bike , BMW , Britt , Italian , current Akront and even Chinese with no luck . I just couldn't see $340+ shipping .

~kop



~kop
 
Spent the day pulling the old failing rotor and put in a new one. Also new brushes...then I pulled the old rectifier & regulator and put in a combo unit (truly plug n play to stock wiring) I found on amazon...both r/r and rotor were from electrosport...we'll see how well they do over time, but price was good and working great so far.


The hardest part was getting the rotor nut torqued to spec...had a heck of a time locking up the back wheel so the motor wouldn't turn over (Had it in gear, rear brake fully engaged and still would turn a bit) but finally got it and all is well.
 
Sorted out my key issues with ignition and gas cap. Had a key that worked in the gas cap but not in the ignition switch. I bought a new switch through Mikes, but that key would not fit my gas caps. Pulled the lock mechanism from the gas cap and removed the tumblers so that I can use the keys from the new ignition switch in the gas cap. While i was at it i thought, hey why not try the same trick on the old ignition switch that I did not have a key for. Took a little more fiddling but the process was the same. The other keys i have will now work in it, but the key is loose and would not trust leaving it in the ignition while riding. Turn the bike on and pocket the key. The steering lock still works too. I think I will just keep the old switch in a box for backup.

Also made a block off plate for my 2nd petcock out of some 1/4" Alum plate. That was way easier than I thought it would be. I just made a crude cut with my 4" grinder and hand filed it to a nice clean shape.
 
Left cylinder would occasionally skip a beat.

Been quite awhile since I've seen this.
Hard to see, but within that squiggly white line is a fine microcrack.
After 4 years use, changed the plugs...

MicroCrack.jpg
 
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Installed a pair of Mike's Commando mufflers and during the test ride the screws holding the speedometer face plate worked loose and of course it promptly flipped upside down.

Found a write up for removing the bezel and sat down to do it, managing it without breaking the glass. Some loctite and we're good as new.
 
Nice, I'm thinking aboit going that route...How did they fit, sound, perform?

I went with the Commando's with part number 07-0015. They fit pretty well but needed to have the holes on the hangers drilled out to fit the passenger peg stud. I have them slipped on my OEM headpipes which are double walled but are welded at the outlet. As far as sound, they have an aggressive note without being obnoxiously loud.

My bike was already rejetted for pods and harley mufflers by the PO, and I'm not sure what sizes he put in. I ditched the K&N style pods for a pair of 2-stage UNI foams and with this combo the bike seems slightly more responsive than before. Nothing concrete of course, just the uncalibrated butt dyno :bike:
 
I went with the Commando's with part number 07-0015. They fit pretty well but needed to have the holes on the hangers drilled out to fit the passenger peg stud. I have them slipped on my OEM headpipes which are double walled but are welded at the outlet. As far as sound, they have an aggressive note without being obnoxiously loud.

My bike was already rejetted for pods and harley mufflers by the PO, and I'm not sure what sizes he put in. I ditched the K&N style pods for a pair of 2-stage UNI foams and with this combo the bike seems slightly more responsive than before. Nothing concrete of course, just the uncalibrated butt dyno :bike:

Thanks, that helps. If you have any pics, would love to see how they look.
 
Dropped the bike off at Heartcore. Should be two weeks and I'll be on the road!
 

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I just made a 2 day trip up through the Icefield Parkway, in the Rocky mountains, and my bike ran perfect. Trip covered 1126.3 kms, and gas consumption was 24.28 km/L or 57.1 mpg (US gallons). Weather was fantastic!

In the picture, I have just driven up the road you see at the bottom, and took the picture from a higher up location on the same road.
 

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Replaced the ignition switch this week. Guess it wasnt the safety relay messing with the power to the nuetral light.
 
I just made a 2 day trip up through the Icefield Parkway, in the Rocky mountains, and my bike ran perfect. Trip covered 1126.3 kms, and gas consumption was 24.28 km/L or 57.1 mpg (US gallons). Weather was fantastic!

In the picture, I have just driven up the road you see at the bottom, and took the picture from a higher up location on the same road.


Looks like a Great run RG!
 
In a hurry to go to a local "friday night" show I had thrown in a set of pads last week but the brake just went from awful to bad. So it got the full monte. I did the MC last year and did not replace the brake line "yet".

Stripped down and rebuilt the the caliper new vesrah pads, fork seals, dust boots, 160ml 10-30 motor oil each side, spiffed up the lowers a bit. Starting to look presentable. The brake is now period acceptable, maybe plus a bit.

front wheel.jpg front wheel2.jpg

LH view tx.jpg 20150626_175501.jpg

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Much as I hate to let a runner go I'm thinking of selling it, I have a second 73 in the wings.
This bike is not perfect, chrome has pimples needs new paint to be sharp. some things are "fixed up" that would need to be replaced or have further work for show. shows 13K should be the right number. I've put about 500 miles on it, running well. Anyone want to throw out a "don't need to sell" asking price? I hate trying to decide value.
 
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