Will using this rear wheel cause problems?

[entropy]

So I search around a bit and couldn’t find an answer....

I recently picked up a set of wheels for my project and I’ve noticed the rear wheel has some sort of damage to the interior (maybe from p.o. trying to remove the wheel bearings). Will cause problems or will it be fine to use once I’ve put new bearings and spacer in (once I locate one)?

I don't suspect that will be too much of an issue, but I'm less confident about the damage to the brake drum (see last two thumbnails). Is this normal to have some of the outer edge chip out? Will it be dangerous or cause problems?

Thanks for the help.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Tough call. I don't see problems with the bearing seats. The inner flange would be for helping the spacer to stay somewhat centered, to ease axle insertion. Just don't want it to be scraping on the spacer while rolling.

The drum is a different story. The book would say to toss it.

Would need to see what's under the rust, maybe more cracks. The outer raised ring would need to be turned to match the inner diameter. The steel/iron drum needs a solid and thermally conductive connection to the surrounding alloy, else it could overheat, leading to premature brake fade. This is risk management stuff...

 

[TimeMachine]

Can't see the rear drum working well. I Do believe it will work for casual riding. But is it worth it ? There are better wheels to be found for not too much expense. I personally wouldn't invest in a tire and such when expecting to experience only acceptable braking anyway. -RT

 

[fredintoon]

So I search around a bit and couldn’t find an answer....
I recently picked up a set of wheels for my project and I’ve noticed the rear wheel has some sort of damage to the interior (maybe from p.o. trying to remove the wheel bearings). Will cause problems or will it be fine to use once I’ve put new bearings and spacer in (once I locate one)?
I don't suspect that will be too much of an issue, but I'm less confident about the damage to the brake drum (see last two thumbnails). Is this normal to have some of the outer edge chip out? Will it be dangerous or cause problems? - - -

Hi entropy,
if you were broken down in some remote corner of the world that wheel could be fixed up enough to get you moving again.
As you are in LA, use that poor distressed wheel as the base for a garbage can stand and look for a better one to use for your build.

 

[gggGary]

Drum mag rears aren't that common. Billy boy prying the brake plate off when the cam shaft is rusty and stuck not letting the shoes retract is the common cause of the drum lip being cracked like that. If the rest of the drum cleans up, no cracks I'd run it. Actually I think I have run one nearly like that. The other marks don't look like they should bother either, as long as you have a smooth flat face for the bearing to seat against, IE a bit of filing and sanding any raised up edges if needed. It is always good practice to smooth and round any sharp dent marks in castings so they aren't "crack starters" AKA stress risers. would prolly do the same to the CI liner edges.
These things are very old school massive aluminum castings. They for sure aren't eggshell thin except the cast iron liner.

 

[gggGary]

Note the LH bearing has a hard to find flange/ID reducer pressed into it.

 

[entropy]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the replies. I'm a bit disappointed as I assumed they were complete and in good running order but my fault for assuming things. I guess I'll clean the rear drum up, see how it's looks, and then decide what to do taking into account the info from this thread.

 

[fredintoon]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the replies. I'm a bit disappointed as I assumed they were complete and in good running order but my fault for assuming things. I guess I'll clean the rear drum up, see how it's looks, and then decide what to do taking into account the info from this thread.

Hi entropy,
like Gary sez, do not lose or discard the collar that's pressed into the leftside bearing's center because the new bearing won't have one.
That collar is not a part of the bearing.
It's a part of the bearing assembly and must be salvaged along with the bearing spacer tube for re-use with the replacement bearings.
In the short term you'd best work with the wheel you already have.
In the long term, put a want ad in the list's classifieds for another cast drum rear wheel.
FYI the 16" cast rear drum wheel may be in a minority but it ain't a one-year wonder, Canadian Specials had them from '81 thru '84.

 

[TimeMachine]

entropy, as a fairly recourceful parts finder up here by Ptld, I searched for a drum mag wheel for you. Found nuttin .. hope you are succesful at conditioning you wheel ! There is always time later .. -RT

 

[fredintoon]

Hi entropy,
if you can't fix the wheel you have or find another one in better shape there is an alternative.
Reconsider your build's "look" and use mid '70s XS650 flanged aluminum rim wire wheels instead.
They look nicer than cast wheels, let you use a 110/90-18 rear tire and are a straight swapover.
The only downside is you can't fit tubeless tires on them.
That fact and that they are a bitch to keep clean is why I swapped my bike back to it's original cast wheels.