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XS6502F / XS650SK mash up?
- Thread starter jetmechmarty
- Start date
If you're going to powder coat the fork lowers, remove the seals first. I worked on some that had been powder coated with the seals still installed. I had to replace the seals and they were a bitch to get out after having been baked in there during the powder coating process, lol.
Yes. I’m building up the forks from my parts stash. The seals will come out first.
While all this is still fresh for me, I thought I'd measure up front. My frame is 0.06 in wider than the bushing. I'm going to have to shim it to fit. It looks like it will take three 0.5 mm shims to fill the gap.
Maybe stainless steel sheet metal is worth considering and doing those shims yourself.Or one only 1.5 mm
With the option to grind to the exact thickness you want.
Any sheet metal shop here has a piece of scrap one could get.
Stainless is a bit worse to work with but doable.
With the option to grind to the exact thickness you want.
Any sheet metal shop here has a piece of scrap one could get.
Stainless is a bit worse to work with but doable.
Three half millimeter shims won't be tight. It should fill the gap, so I won't have the bushing rotating on the pin as I was on the other bike.
I'm not equipped to do that. Having the brown truck drop shims at my door is far easier to do.
Perhaps I should just leave that screw alone and break the cam chain. It’s hard to work between all those studs that I’d rather leave alone.
I've had good luck with a good set of long handle safety wire pliers.... as long as the jaws still have good knurling. It's amazing how much leverage and grip you get with 'em.
They bite... be sure and wear a heavy glove. Don't ask me how I know that....
It’s like working on a porcupine.
I had problems with one or two of those
A friend had a small gas torch heating and some light oil there most likely
And I used a 1/4 inch ratchet
Correct bit pushing down as Hard I could with the left hand and untighten with the right hand
Both came out.
Can try a little in the tightening direction and if possible use a drift on the top end move it inwards
Issue #1 is the screw head is boogered. I’ve tried your suggestions other than the heat. I’ll give that a go next time I pick up the tools.
Yes Sir I can se that it is a bit " Rounded " but so was the ones I had . If an oversized bit is used and hammered on a bit
Can make it stick
Can still work. Pay attention that it is not jumping out . It can help if a 2 man job. if the one man job does not work.
Drilling is worse i My view
Heat then Kroil. Repeat.
Silly me. It appears even with the chain tensioner removed, I still have to break either the chain or the tensioner assembly.
Yes, I was going to ask what the whole point was for taking that tensioner off in the first place, lol. Breaking the chain is no big deal. These bikes came from the factory with a split chain joined by a master link. I've always split the chain (and replaced it with a new one).
Now you tell me!
I didn’t need this frame. It went back to Georgia. The frame I started with now has a Mississippi title and current registration. All I lack is assembling a motorcycle.
