Getting the ‘57 beetle back on the road in 2024

Things like shocks will be replaced but I’ll get it running first. The swap out is simple and the mounting hardware are freed up. The shocks on there are ugly but surprisingly are not leaking and actually still have decent damping force.
 
I'm not super fussy but amazed you were able to resist tapping the dent out of that tail light fairing. :umm:
I find it shocking how many toss out old shocks just cuz the covers are rusty.
 
I'm not super fussy but amazed you were able to resist tapping the dent out of that tail light fairing. :umm:
I find it shocking how many toss out old shocks just cuz the covers are rusty.
Now you made me look - pretty sure it’s not a dent but a scuff mark and camera angle.
 
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Checked and no dent on the tail light👍. Decided to remove the LR brake line and make a new one. The two sides look similar now. LR wheel on and shoes adjusted. Will complete the RHS tomorrow. More rusty bits into the Evaporust bucket for a few days.
 
Back to the beetle this week. Last month I drained the 50+ year old gear oil from the transaxle. It was thick as snot and took a long time to drain. Before I put the real stuff in, I was thinking I should attempt to flush more of the old stuff out first. Any suggestions on what I might use? Just regular oil or solvent or maybe something like Marvel Mystery Oil? I’ll just spin the tranny by turning the tire by hand then drain it out. I plan on several changes. I do have quite a bit of different grades of gear oil on hand but I’d like to cut the sludge at the bottom of the tranny. Once it’s on the road and running it will be easy to do a few hot oil changes but for now I have to do it cold. This is a primitive tranny with just gears so I don’t think I need to worry too much about flushing liquid types. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I wouldn't thin it with anything as you may cause more harm than good with unevaporated liquid in there.

You could put something underneath it to warm it up (electric heater, etc...) then drain it one more time, then put fresh fluid back in until you drive it.

Once you drive it on a shakedown run, come back and drain it immediately when its good and warm and all the contaminants are contained.
 
I wouldn't thin it with anything as you may cause more harm than good with unevaporated liquid in there.

You could put something underneath it to warm it up (electric heater, etc...) then drain it one more time, then put fresh fluid back in until you drive it.

Once you drive it on a shakedown run, come back and drain it immediately when its good and warm and all the contaminants are contained.
Yes the heater idea is good. I can probably rig up one of my infrared heaters underneath. Good point about the solvents.
 
Yes the heater idea is good. I can probably rig up one of my infrared heaters underneath. Good point about the solvents.
I realize that it's apples to oranges, but when we raced Formula Vee, we ran 20W50 motor oil in the gearboxes. Never had a gearbox issue but the cars only weigh 1000-1050 with driver. I don't think that you would hurt that gearbox even if the oil was a little thinner as you're only making advertised 36 H.P. (real number is well under 30). Just my two cents.
 
I realize that it's apples to oranges, but when we raced Formula Vee, we ran 20W50 motor oil in the gearboxes. Never had a gearbox issue but the cars only weigh 1000-1050 with driver. I don't think that you would hurt that gearbox even if the oil was a little thinner as you're only making advertised 36 H.P. (real number is well under 30). Just my two cents.
I think I’ll use up some of my “orphan” oil - partial leftovers with no immediate future use, to flush out the tranny. Could be some motor oil in there too. I’ll look tomorrow to see what’s in inventory. I will however keep the solvents out of there.
 
Just thinking out loud here Not knowing the design
Old seals perhaps dont like new formulations on Oils.
So I would read the bottle before pouring things in there.
And probably only use what was available 1957
If sat for a long time things can have dried and cracked .
correct oil and turning it a little now and then before the start up can help lubricating the seal lip and surface
 
If I remember correctly, a 57 Bug has a "Pope's Nose" license plate light, right?
I thought my ‘57 had a “popes” nose licence plate light but apparently the purists would disagree. Apparently the true “pope’s nose” lights were on the earlier generation beetles eg. Split window cars.
 
I thought my ‘57 had a “popes” nose licence plate light but apparently the purists would disagree. Apparently the true “pope’s nose” lights were on the earlier generation beetles eg. Split window cars.

Found this on aircooled.net

"Pope’s Nose

Commonly used slang term for the taillight housing on Split Window Beetles from 1943 -1952, however it was still used by some until 1966."

I will back you up if you say it's a pope's nose on your bug.
 
Well, I'll be reading this thread from top to bottom cause the guy that sold/traded for 2 of the bikes I got running in the past 2 years has another deal for me. Its titled as a '69 but I don't think it has the original engine. He told me he would give it to me and he needs/wants the space so I'm going to look at it. Does the name SCHLEP come to anyone else's mind?

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There were a lot of different dune buggy companies in the 70s. Bug engines are so easy to swap that a lot of them don't have matching numbers.

My son wants a Manx soooo bad (I raised him right).

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Cool looking car. These dune buggy’s are apparently becoming difficult to insure in Ontario. Not sure if true or an urban legend. Too bad if true because they were an economical conversion.
 
There were a lot of different dune buggy companies in the 70s.
My younger brother and I (almost) made a living back then building buggy's. Both the Manx body conversion and the tube frame buggy's. We didn't get rich (obviously) but we kept the wolves at bay for a couple years... and we had a blast doing it!!

Me on the left, little bro on the right.

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