1978 XS650 Special Project

Remember that original systems were designed to offer clean air to the engine AND attenuate intake noise to meet Federal noise standards. Since we all pussyfoot quietly through our neighborhoods on our 50 year old bikes, intake "honk" is a lower concern.During the jetting phase of my Red Bike I did comment that VMs with Uni pods are noisy.
 
Be sure to test the floats after cleaning (dip in hot water and watch for streams of bubbles). Sitting for a long time covered with that gas varnish can eat holes in them. If you need new ones, no need to pay big bucks from some 650 specialty place because they are just a common VM24-171 Mikuni float. The retail on them is only about $15 but you can find them a few dollars cheaper at many places .....

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I had dunk tested the floats when I cleaned them after taking them out. I did not see bubbles, but this morning as I was cleaning/polishing the sleeve that the pin goes into, I shook them and low and behold, its holding fluid. Placed order for 2 new VM24-171 floats this morning. Thx for posting this.
 
Any way to clean the old filter material off easily? Anything I can soak it in?
 

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So are the 3.25 -19 tires the same thing as 100/90-19?
Those front tires look pretty darn close to the stock tires in some old 1978 XS650 adds I have seen.
Looked at my rear tire again and it does not have the dry rot like the front tires and are newer.
100/90-19 is a wee bit bigger than 3.25-19, and a wee bit smaller than 3.50-19.
 
..... but it is the metric size most of us run. I've never tried a 110 on the front but the 100 has always been big enough in my eyes .....

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Yes, I wouldn't want that. I love how nimble my 650s are, and it's best you stick with stock (or very near stock) tire sizes to keep them that way. You can squeeze a 120 on an 18" rear wheel but the results are the same as a fatter front - slower to turn in. And even though I laced up a slightly wider 2.15 rim on the front wheel of my Special, I stuck with the 100 tire .....

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I like the way this wheel came out so much I've bought another 2.15 rim to make up another for a spare. I also got an alloy rim for the rear that I'll be swapping on once the tire wears out .....

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Now, I don't normally buy new rims but these were on clearance and cheap.
 
Any way to clean the old filter material off easily? Anything I can soak it in?
I hit the fuzzies around the edges with a wire wheel on a battery powered drill, then blew all the other fuzzies off with a few blasts from my air compressor with an air nozzle.

Cleaned it right up really well. The edges don't have to be spotlessly perfect...the new foam will be covering it all up anyway.

I didnt want to soak it in anything for fear of the screen separating from the ends, I think its epoxied together if I remember correctly.
 
Don't have the filters ready but the floats came in today so I was able to finish the carb rebuild. Put the carbs in and hooked up an Aux plastic tank.
Started up just on the choke/fuel enrichment only after a few seconds. Did not need any starting fluid. Lowered the idle screw a little.
Gotta fix a leak in the lines from the plastic Aux tank then I can color tune the mixture screws and then sync the carbs.

I have to rebuild the petcocks as well as de rust the gas tank.

That Brake/Tail light is coming on in the dash. Don't know what that is all about. It was turning off then coming back on. Had nothing to do with hitting the brakes or the tail light.
 
Great feeling starting the engine - sounds good.

That Brake/Tail light is coming on in the dash. Don't know what that is all about. It was turning off then coming back on. Had nothing to do with hitting the brakes or the tail light.
Seem to remember in the early days when I first started Miss November, which still had idiot lights in them days, and that red light came on which worried the hell out of me 'cause I thought it was oil warning. Then realised it was a rear light warning, telling me the rear light cluster was not connected.
 
Yes, looking at the electrical for the 78 special, there is a Light checker box.
But this may be a symptom of what I found this morning.
Battery is 12.6V before starting and 12.3v while running even though I rev it up some.
Seems my alternator is not putting out. Will have to start on that next. I guess I'll start with brushes.
Will have to see if there is a way to look at voltage outputs from the Alternator to Rectifier and Rectifier to Regulator

Pulled cover but have yet to pull brushes. That slip ring look like it needs cleaning?


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Yes, start by checking the brushes. they are considered a wear item and once worn too short, they can lose good contact with the slip rings. Charging output will drop off or even quit completely. The outer slip ring that's showing doesn't look real dirty. Usually the carbon rubbing off the brush turns the ring black. In this pic from my '78, I've cleaned the outer ring but haven't done the inner yet .....

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I think it's best to remove the stator for slip ring cleaning and measuring, and for brush inspection. It's easy, there's only two screws holding it on. Just be aware that there is a small alignment pin at the bottom you'll need to line up for the stator to fit back on completely. You can just swing the stator over to the side and rest it on some wood blocking like so, no need to unplug the wiring harness. This pic also shows what I like to use for cleaning the slip rings, just plain old chrome polish. After cleaning, I wipe the surface down with electrical cleaner to remove any polish residue ......

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As I mentioned, your slip ring that's showing doesn't look real dirty, but I am a bit concerned about that silver color on it. That brush may be worn right out and you have metal rubbing on the ring. New brushes are about 14.5mm long and the wear limit is about half that, about 7mm. If it's a factory original brush, there will be a wear indicator line etched in one side .....

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OK, after you check the brushes, the next thing to check is the rotor. To do that, you measure the resistance between the two slip rings. You want to find about 4 to 5 ohms. Unfortunately, rotor failure is pretty common. It's not a bad part really, it's just 40+ years old, lol, so they're crapping out. If yours is bad, the best course of action is to have it rewound. There's a forum member who does them and he does a wonderful job. You can buy new aftermarket ones but the quality is hit and miss.

The regulator and rectifier aren't connected. The regulator feeds voltage into the rotor to make it charge. The AC current the stator and rotor produce is sent to the rectifier and it converts it to DC current that the bike needs and uses.
 
Well, pulled the stator and measured the slip ring to slip ring resistance and it was infinite.
cleaning it off with some fine sandpaper till it was nice and shiny made no difference.

So there is my main problem.

I measured the stator winding resistance between the white leads and it was a couple ohms which I believe is too high but my meter is a cheap Harbor Freight one so I'll bring in my fluke from work to check it.

I can get one from MikesXS, but Who is the forum member who re winds them? :)

Is this what I need to pull the rotor?

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-puller-alternator-rotor.html
 
I can get one from MikesXS, but Who is the forum member who re winds them? :)
Well, with my rewinds you'll never need the puller again :sneaky:, so I have a "loaner" if you'd rather not buy one. Also have a rotor ready to go currently. Lemme know...
 
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