YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thanks.
Good Stuff!
That $33 (+Shipping) I'm going to save can do towards a Vessel #2500.
Good Stuff!
That $33 (+Shipping) I'm going to save can do towards a Vessel #2500.
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Clutch Spring Cap Screw Modification
- Thread starter kent_in_kc
- Start date
I just checked and there are none listed at the moment but keep checking, they do come up. The thing is, on the several I got I was the only bidder. I guess folks don't realize or know just what a fine tool this is. We'll just keep that our little secret, lol.
Wait, it appears I spoke too soon, here you go, best $20 you'll ever spend .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ves...l-Metal-Box-4-bits-instructions-/111116714869
Wait, it appears I spoke too soon, here you go, best $20 you'll ever spend .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ves...l-Metal-Box-4-bits-instructions-/111116714869
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YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thanks!
I'll check it out. Is there anything special (size?) about the bits i.e., can any other bits be used as well?
I'll check it out. Is there anything special (size?) about the bits i.e., can any other bits be used as well?
Hand impact bits are 5/16" hex, not 1/4" hex like all those cordless screwdriver bits. The 5/16" ones are readily available though. MikesXS even sells them. In fact, you may want to get a set of the longer ones. Sometimes they're needed to reach into tight spots .....
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/35-0110.html
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/35-0110.html
I like the idea of converting to sleeved/shouldered hex screws for a couple of reasons. First, controlled torque. Second, more importantly I believe, is eliminating the shock on the clutch hub/boss. Imagine a series of PO's, over many years, doing clutch work, using heavy-handed over-smacking to remove/install those phillips screws. 5T has shown some examples of thread stretch, and boogered headslots, which leads me to believe some serious/overzealous smacking has been going on. Haven't seen any examples of cracked/separated hub/bosses here yet, but awhile back, NONclow mentioned something about possible hub-spline separation. If these things are to last another 40 years, maybe it's time to stop the smacking...
I never even considered that but maybe you're right.
Hitting it less sure can't hurt.
leo
leo
sseres
XS650 Junkie
yes, and I've taken that dumb assembly apart more times than would otherwise be necessary if I'd gotten the washers on there right the first time
xsdogstar
xsdogstar
Genius. I love seeing ideas like this.
hard_y_rd
XS650 Guru
Would M6 X 40mm stainless be better than regular steel socket head screws. I have to order them just thought stainless might be better. I know they will be bathed in oil so rusting won't be an issue.
No, I would stick with the plain steel, black oxide finish even (no need for cad or zinc plating). The steel ones are stronger than the stainless steel ones. Unless you're ordering a quantity bag (like 25) because you need them elsewhere externally like on the covers. Stainless would work OK but there's no need for it in this application. They won't be better than steel functionally, they'll probably just cost more.
Lots more dinero for the stainless. Wouldn't the 40 mm bolts be a tad short?
I guess that would depend on if or how much you recessed the "cap"?
And if you recess the cap aren't you reducing the shoulder strength of the cap/bushing?
I guess that would depend on if or how much you recessed the "cap"?
And if you recess the cap aren't you reducing the shoulder strength of the cap/bushing?
hard_y_rd
XS650 Guru
It states at the beginning of the thread to use 40mm. What is everyone else using?
Use 40s, 45s are too long and stick out the back of the hub, digging into the outer hub. Use the 40s along with grinding the "dome" off the top of the original screw (now your spacer) and the length works out perfectly. Here's some pics .....
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hard_y_rd
XS650 Guru
Perfect. I'm kinda in a toss up here now. Arsed up a screw and have to special order the cap screws. Need to get another pressure plate screw as well. Holiday coming. Damn you Easter Bunny. I Love/Hate waiting for stuff in the mail.
hard_y_rd
XS650 Guru
Use 40s, 45s are too long and stick out the back of the hub, digging into the outer hub. Use the 40s along with grinding the "dome" off the top of the original screw (now your spacer) and the length works out perfectly. Here's some pics .....
What's the trick in getting the heads ground down nice and equal?
I held them against a 6" grinder with a new disc in it (still all nice and square).
tracer1966
Kaptain Kluge
I replaced my clutch this weekend, and I made this mod to my clutch bolts. I also enjoyed the luxury of doing it at my brother's machine shop where I used a lathe to drill out the hole and remove the old threads.
In a nod to Mother's Day, when done I handed the old threads that look like studs and said, "Much like our mom, I've been making homemade studs."
Love the site and all the great ideas, minds, and projects!
In a nod to Mother's Day, when done I handed the old threads that look like studs and said, "Much like our mom, I've been making homemade studs."
Love the site and all the great ideas, minds, and projects!
ok trying to get the my crank shaft so im down to literally just taking my clutch off and not a single screw will turn and ive taken an impact drill to them and im not going to go any furthur and completely round these assholes out. so has anybody tried anything else that works with these little spawns of satan? i dont have access to a hand impact wrech at the moment....so any other words of wisdom? these things wont budge!! thanks.
sseres
XS650 Junkie
I wasn't. I murdered them and got a replacement set with the hex top from Mikes. I'm sure a real mechanic will know but mine got dead.
