kent_in_kc
Heartlander
Recently I disassembled and removed my clutch basket to replace the infamous defective starter gear.
When it came time to remove the six Phillips-head cap screws holding the pressure plate and discs together, I noticed that they were very tight. It took a lot of beef to get them loose. When I reassembled the clutch, I twisted one of the six screws off! Grr.
So I took the basket apart, removed it, welded a rod to the end of the broken screw and (luckily) was able to remove it. Making a note to get another screw, I resumed reassembly of the basket only to have a second screw snap off when tightened!
I may be dumb but I ain't stupid... or something. So I disassembled everything and examined the remainder of the screws. They were all stretched and thin in the center, unable to withstand any tightening at all. Apparently a PO had run them in with an air wrench.
That's when I posted the problem on XS650.com's forum an got a suggestion from 5Twins. He suggested the mod that I used to successfully get my bike working again. Not only did this save me a few days waiting on new cap screws, I believe it is superior to the original design.
Here's why: the stock cap screw threads in almost all the way before bottoming out against the shoulder. What happens then is, as the mechanic tightens it and normal torque stretch occurs, only the tiny segment right at the innermost end of the threads next to the shoulder stretches. All of the torque is absorbed there. Thus, the cap screw snaps.
With 5Twins' mod, all of the cap screw length that passes through the spacer absorbs the torque and stretches evenly.
Here is a pic of both the stock cap screw (on the left) and the modification. Notice the thin, stretched section of the stock cap screw:
Since the stock screw is stretched, it is a bit longer than our new cap screw. To do the mod, cut off the threaded part of the stock screw:
Next, lock the stock cap screw in your drill press vise and drill down through it with a 15/64" bit.
Here is the resulting spacer and the new 6mmx40mm socket head cap screw.
One final note. When tightening your new cap screws, use a bit of blue thread locker and torque them to 7 ft. lbs.
When it came time to remove the six Phillips-head cap screws holding the pressure plate and discs together, I noticed that they were very tight. It took a lot of beef to get them loose. When I reassembled the clutch, I twisted one of the six screws off! Grr.
So I took the basket apart, removed it, welded a rod to the end of the broken screw and (luckily) was able to remove it. Making a note to get another screw, I resumed reassembly of the basket only to have a second screw snap off when tightened!
I may be dumb but I ain't stupid... or something. So I disassembled everything and examined the remainder of the screws. They were all stretched and thin in the center, unable to withstand any tightening at all. Apparently a PO had run them in with an air wrench.
That's when I posted the problem on XS650.com's forum an got a suggestion from 5Twins. He suggested the mod that I used to successfully get my bike working again. Not only did this save me a few days waiting on new cap screws, I believe it is superior to the original design.
Here's why: the stock cap screw threads in almost all the way before bottoming out against the shoulder. What happens then is, as the mechanic tightens it and normal torque stretch occurs, only the tiny segment right at the innermost end of the threads next to the shoulder stretches. All of the torque is absorbed there. Thus, the cap screw snaps.
With 5Twins' mod, all of the cap screw length that passes through the spacer absorbs the torque and stretches evenly.
Here is a pic of both the stock cap screw (on the left) and the modification. Notice the thin, stretched section of the stock cap screw:

Since the stock screw is stretched, it is a bit longer than our new cap screw. To do the mod, cut off the threaded part of the stock screw:

Next, lock the stock cap screw in your drill press vise and drill down through it with a 15/64" bit.

Here is the resulting spacer and the new 6mmx40mm socket head cap screw.

One final note. When tightening your new cap screws, use a bit of blue thread locker and torque them to 7 ft. lbs.