Classic
rackin' up the miles
No, just put 200lbs behind the correct size phillips wrench. 4 came out with ease but those two rounded out immediately.
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Clutch Spring Cap Screw Modification
- Thread starter kent_in_kc
- Start date
No, just put 200lbs behind the correct size phillips wrench. 4 came out with ease but those two rounded out immediately.
Oh yes you can. It's only $3.99 at the moment. LOL! When I see something like that I feel so grateful that I want to buy a dozen of them as a reward.
But this modification...I was curious how many drill bits do you go through doing this? What's the best bit to use?
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Classic
rackin' up the miles
^I'd also like to know.
And good news. I got a shallow phillips #3 and hammered it in. My clutch is off now.
And good news. I got a shallow phillips #3 and hammered it in. My clutch is off now.
One drill bit should do dozens of sets. Use a bit of oil on the drill bit.
I've thought about getting in the insiders club, just haven't yet. I think I'll do that.
I've thought about getting in the insiders club, just haven't yet. I think I'll do that.
What Leo says; lots of oil for cooling, fairly low speed consistent pressure. The goal is a nice coil of steel curling off the drill bit. You won't always get that but you should be seeing chips not metal dust. Bolts are tough not hard and tend to machine well.
hi guys when i loosened the phillips head screws on the clutch hub i did have the benifit of an air operated ratchet with carbide phillips head bits ..and all except 1 were easy...and i got to use this tool i didn,t know i had... it was a complete rattle gun /air chisel /ratchet with fittings from bunnings.....regards oldbiker
crashcourse
XS650 Addict
Machining speeds (in rpm) are pretty standardized. Use a chart like this one to find surface feet per minute (sfpm) for your material, then one like this to find out what speed to set on your machine for how big of bit you're using. Carbide cutters can go 4x faster than HSS (regular steel drills/cutters). Like was said, using the right cutting fluid will greatly improve surface finish and tool life. Also, for more precise holes, invest in a center drill to start your holes. And a small shop grinder with a good sharpening wheel can be really handy when your tools get dull.
Somebody's been in the machine shop for a while. Ha this ^ is the story of my life right now, going to school for machining.
The hardest part of this mod is holding the screws for drilling. I made up a wooden holder but the screws got so hot, it started smokin', lol. Then the screws started spinning in it. My second attempt was better and succeeded, using aluminum .....
A note about what length Allen screws to use. The originals are a rather odd 42 or 43mm long from the top of the head to the bottom of the threaded portion. Commonly available screw lengths are 40 and 45mm. The 45s are a bit long and can stick out of the back of the hub, rubbing on the outer basket. The 40s, on the other hand, barely make it. To overcome this and give those 40s an additional MM or 2 of grip, grind the domed top of the original screws flat after drilling them.
A note about what length Allen screws to use. The originals are a rather odd 42 or 43mm long from the top of the head to the bottom of the threaded portion. Commonly available screw lengths are 40 and 45mm. The 45s are a bit long and can stick out of the back of the hub, rubbing on the outer basket. The 40s, on the other hand, barely make it. To overcome this and give those 40s an additional MM or 2 of grip, grind the domed top of the original screws flat after drilling them.
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WagXS
XS650 New Member
So suggestions are to grind 2mm off top of oringinal screws or to countersink 2mm into original screw?
You can also find either "button" socket head bolts or "low" socket head bolts at Ace Hardware or local Fastenal so you don't have to grind or countersink, any recommendations on these bolts?
You can also find either "button" socket head bolts or "low" socket head bolts at Ace Hardware or local Fastenal so you don't have to grind or countersink, any recommendations on these bolts?
You're not grinding because of the head style, you're doing it to gain some length on the threaded end so it goes into the hub deeper. Normal Allen heads fit fine so there's no need for the low heads or button heads, but I guess you could use them if you like.
WagXS
XS650 New Member
Oh. Got it, thx. So what's the problem with countersinking that another guy had a problem with. Is grinding the better option?
He either countersunk them too much or used bolts too long, or both. The bolts stuck out the bottom of the inner hub and rubbed on the outer hub. Just make sure your bolts don't stick out the bottom when installed.
WagXS
XS650 New Member
Completely understand stand now. Thanks for spelling it out. I'm performing the mod tomorrow. Wish me luck and thanks for the help.
Once you get the stock bolts drilled, mount the drilled bolts to the hub with the bolts you plan to use. Now look at the back of the hub. Do the bolts stick out? Do they come out flush or do they not come out to flush?
I would reccomend using bolts that stick out a bit then grinding them back to flush.
This way you know you have the right length bolts.
Leo
I would reccomend using bolts that stick out a bit then grinding them back to flush.
This way you know you have the right length bolts.
Leo
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Since I'm not properly set up with table-top tools to do this mod (and otherwise lack the time needed for fabrication), would I be better off to go with MikesXS Clutch Spring Screw Set (#39-6508) which uses socket head bolts with matching sleeves in lieu of using a new set of OEM Phillips head clutch springs screws that I've already purchased (which I'm sure I can return)?
While going with socket head bolts is a plus vs. trying to torque Phillips head bolts, I have to wonder about the thread length/cap length on this product in light of comments I've just read (about unequal torque on threads). I don't have much confidence in their customer service to provide specs of this nature.
Any happy customers out there who have purchased MikesXS $33 Performance set?
While going with socket head bolts is a plus vs. trying to torque Phillips head bolts, I have to wonder about the thread length/cap length on this product in light of comments I've just read (about unequal torque on threads). I don't have much confidence in their customer service to provide specs of this nature.
Any happy customers out there who have purchased MikesXS $33 Performance set?
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Original screws in good condition (Philips slots not buggered up) are not a problem. If you use the hand impact for removal and keep the heads in good shape, they work fine. For install, you can torque them using the #3 bit from your impact fitted into an 8mm or 5/16" socket on your torque wrench.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
That's great news! Thanks, 5twins.
Yes, I mangled a couple of the screws during removal, so I ordered a new set of OEM's.
I'll just use those and follow your install recommendations.
What is the proper torque?
I really need to pick up a hand impact wrench.
Yes, I mangled a couple of the screws during removal, so I ordered a new set of OEM's.
I'll just use those and follow your install recommendations.
What is the proper torque?
I really need to pick up a hand impact wrench.
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Yes, 7 ft/lbs. The threaded portion of the screw is only a 6mm diameter so you use the torque spec for 6mm fasteners.
Now for a hand impact tip - shop eBay for a used Vessel. These are the Cadillacs of hand impacts, in fact I think Vessel invented them. When I was a kid and first started riding, a hand impact was one of the first tools I bought, along with a metric socket set. I knew I needed it because of reading all the bike magazines at the time. It was well documented in them that a hand impact was a "must have" tool for removing all the little case screws without buggering them up. This is still true today. You need one of these.
The local hardware store had one for $6 or $8 and I bought it. I didn't realize back then how good I'd done because this impact turned out to be a Vessel. I still have it today, over 40 years later, and it still works as good as the day I bought it. Vessel still makes the exact same one except now it costs like $75, lol. You can pick them up used on eBay for like $10 to $15. I know, I bought several more to supplement my supply. And believe it or not, a couple of them look like they've never even been hit with a hammer. What you're looking for is the Vessel No. 2500.
Now for a hand impact tip - shop eBay for a used Vessel. These are the Cadillacs of hand impacts, in fact I think Vessel invented them. When I was a kid and first started riding, a hand impact was one of the first tools I bought, along with a metric socket set. I knew I needed it because of reading all the bike magazines at the time. It was well documented in them that a hand impact was a "must have" tool for removing all the little case screws without buggering them up. This is still true today. You need one of these.
The local hardware store had one for $6 or $8 and I bought it. I didn't realize back then how good I'd done because this impact turned out to be a Vessel. I still have it today, over 40 years later, and it still works as good as the day I bought it. Vessel still makes the exact same one except now it costs like $75, lol. You can pick them up used on eBay for like $10 to $15. I know, I bought several more to supplement my supply. And believe it or not, a couple of them look like they've never even been hit with a hammer. What you're looking for is the Vessel No. 2500.
