First attempt at buffing

Rsteen

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First attempt at buffing and bike build photos

Tried out my harbor frieght buffer today on the brake backing plate. Cut off the mount for the brake shoe warning light and then buffed. I think it is not bad for first attempt. Hard work, but mindless. Used a cut off wheel for the bracket. A file to get it roughly close to level and then 80, 180, 320 and 600 grit prior to the polish. Need a higher horse buffer and the 3/4 horse bogged down some. Next up is rear wheel.
 

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If you don't have it, get the black emory compound. It's one of the coarsest and quickly removes the sanding scratches. With it, you only need sand down to 400 paper.
 
Used the black. I figured the smoother you start with the better it would turn out and less buffing and more beer drinking I could do!
 
If your wheels are the flanged alloy type, the bench buffer won't access the "troughs" or around the spoke nipple holes very well. Instead, get the little HF buffing kit that contains the two 2 1/2" spindle mounted buffing wheels. Don't use them in a drill, it doesn't spin fast enough. Use them in a HF air die grinder. They work wonderfully.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about going to a 3/4 horse buffer. Used a 1/2 horse on mine with 8 inch wheels, starting with black, then brown, then white compounds. Use a separate wheel for each color if you can. Helps to use a stiff (stitched) wheel with the black though, since it is going to do most of your cutting.

In spite of using the same sanding sequence (up to 1000 grit) and compounds on the brake backing plate as I did with my rims, alternator side cover, and clutch cover, it still didn't come out as shiny as the rest. I suspect it is a difference aluminum alloy than the rest.
 
Yes, the spokes are a issue. I have a dremil and the small buffing wheels. I have done each spoke and have started on the inside of the rims where the spoke attach. The outside of the wheel will be easy. I have a 3/4 horse now. Need more power!

I do need to get another stitched wheel for the red paste. Got the cotton and it is worthless.
 
looks good Rsteen. It's habit forming with me, now everything that comes off the bike for service or repair gets the old buff and shine.
 
The original spokes were just cad plated which is usually shot by now. Shine them up and they'll just rust in a short while. Replacement is the best route.
 
sounds like your off to a awesum start! only advice i can offer is please wear some sort of a dust mask when polishing.it will keep you from hawking up that nasty stuff you know is not good for your lungs.
 
Looks good! I'm running a 1/2HP with 6" wheels and have not had any bogging problems. It really shouldn't take much pressure.... .let the wheel do the work.

I also started with the rear drum, then the front hub, lower arms and am now finishing up the top triple clamp (it's a real pain). I found that I got MUCH better as I practiced (no surprise there really) and I'm getting much more picky - I might just go back a redo the rear to be honest.

Keep it up!
 
Got the new tire mounted and the back end sorta put back together. Looks pretty shinny, looking for a alloy brake stay to replace the steel one. now to move on to the front end. Will polish motor last, but it runs with new floats and a a general tune. Trying to figure pipes out. Leaning toward emgo cafe pipes or dunstal type on stock head pipes Those are only parts I like.

Body parts are at painter, will be yellow with black stripe like the o.d triumph T120TT had.
 

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If you really want it to shine, get some diamond paste, its more common for polishing hardened steel, but oh boy will it make some AL shine.

I used to do it at work all the time when I was making scale models of parts and the like, Nothing like spinning the lathe up to 3k and polishing some AL !!
 
Looking great. Hint; you can polish light scratches out of chrome too.

If your 3/4 horse is a Harbor Fright

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That's 3/4 of a little Chinese horse!
 
If you really want it to shine, get some diamond paste, its more common for polishing hardened steel, but oh boy will it make some AL shine.

I used to do it at work all the time when I was making scale models of parts and the like, Nothing like spinning the lathe up to 3k and polishing some AL !!
Never heard of it. Where do you get it ?
 
I generally use green rouge with a green wheel. It will take out 400 grit from a da sander. If going for mirror you need to go with a little finer rouge and softer wheel after that but it works for my application...

I did my wheels using 80>220>400 then the green/green....

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Walkin dat dawg an kickin dat kat.
Nice lookin shaker wit thim kaw haulin stacks!
From the California drop front to the full skirts in the back
You make pullin freight a very class act.
Shiney, shiney Dieselchanic.
 
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