Getting the ‘57 beetle back on the road in 2024

[bosco659]

I ran 6 volt starters on 12 volt (converted) VW's for years. They work really good!
If I were to dope up a electric gizmo such as the one you've made, I would begin with a variac View attachment 256209 and a rectified transformer...I'd try a doorbell transformer and a pair of diodes salvaged from a car alternator. My oldest VW was a split window '62 bus...an ah miss th' ol' gal...went with divorce... cheap.
Nice work there amigo!

I recall these variacs from my early days in the injection molding industry. The heaters on the barrels and molded were controlled by these devices on the older machines. Iirc they were very primitive and didn’t have gauges on them so there was a lot of guess work involved.
I haven’t confirmed the effect of the bath temperature on process speed. My friend, a chemical engineer says it will definitely benefit the process by warming up the electrolyte but at what cost?
I have a few ideas to try that can be done without breaking the bank. I’ll post up my contraption if it comes to fruition.

 

[jetmechmarty]

That gave me a horrible mental picture that I can not get rid of.

Shame on you!

 

[40north]

I recall these variacs from my early days in the injection molding industry. The heaters on the barrels and molded were controlled by these devices on the older machines. Iirc they were very primitive and didn’t have gauges on them so there was a lot of guess work involved.
I haven’t confirmed the effect of the bath temperature on process speed. My friend, a chemical engineer says it will definitely benefit the process by warming up the electrolyte but at what cost?
I have a few ideas to try that can be done without breaking the bank. I’ll post up my contraption if it comes to fruition.

Cincinnati Milacron machine - knowed the old ones longtimeago 1988 or so, for the army...yeah heater and screw and all that... memories! We were making useless stuff, ricebowl work. Fun tho. Variac is cheap, got mine off craig's list 25 us buck, like new. A bit undersized, but it was useful with a hotplate to measure sugar and water content in raisins...(we garden, really good raisins!). Looks cool on the bench too!

 

[kshansen]

I ran 6 volt starters on 12 volt (converted) VW's for years. They work really good!

A little off topic, but I have been running a 6 volt starter on my Farmall BN for something like 25 years or more. I did replace the original 3 brush generator with a used GM alternator with an internal regulator. The few seconds that starter has to crank will never hurt the starter in what's left of my lifetime! Something like 5 years ago the original cheap 12 volt battery finally died after 15 or 20 years. Replaced it with the cheapest on I could buy that fit the box

 

[bosco659]

There wouldn’t be a lot to change to convert the car to 12V. Off the top of my head: all bulbs, wiper motor, turn signal relay, generator / regulator and not sure about the distributor innards? Right now I think as long as the the above mentioned bits still work, I’ll stick to 6V because all I’ll really need is a battery. We’ll see as the project progresses.

 

[bosco659]

Last oil change, I think ‘93 and current mileage. Iirc the oil was very dirty when I drained it over 25 years ago. I’m also surprised 10W for the oil grade. I would have guessed SAE30.

Note the shift indicators on the Speedo.

 

[bosco659]

Cool window sticker too!

 

[TX650A Van Islander]

The community of Rexdale doesn't exist anymore either I don't think. Didn't every smaller individual region get gobbled up by the large entity of "Toronto"?

 

[Vincenthdfan]

I love finding those little time capsule Easter Eggs...so cool.

 

[bosco659]

Some still call the communities by their old names but yes they are all part of the GTA (Greater Toronto Area). I think after my generation in gone, the old communities will cease to be recognized.

 

[TX650A Van Islander]

Some still call the communities by their old names but yes they are all part of the GTA (Greater Toronto Area). I think after my generation in gone, the old communities will cease to be recognized.

Sadly, you are likely correct. I had a lot of fun times in my youth in Toronto, and really enjoyed living there. There is a lot of cool history there in the area, as far as history goes in the young country of Canada.

 

[bosco659]

Some things I’ve learned about rust removal. Even with the use of distilled water, the part being cleaned will end up with a black film on it. I remove the part from the bath and hive t a good scrubbing with a SS brush and the majority of the black stuff comes off. However, wipe it with a clean white rag and theres still some on there. I did this last night and this morning I inspected my brake drum and it seemed to have flash rusted overnight. Not terribly bad but noticeable. This also happened to my bearing cap. I had a jar of Evaporust handy do I dunked it in for half a day. This is what it looked like and ended up looking like. The flash rusting is more apparent on the brake drum. It’s simmering in Evaporust now and I‘ll post pics later. It’s an extra step but I think a winning combo. Steel treated with Evaporust is not supposed to flash rust.

Btw I apologize for all the rusty part pics. I promise the number will decrease soon. Just thought people may be interested as a walk through the process

.

 

[40north]

View attachment 256268View attachment 256269View attachment 256270Some things I’ve learned about rust removal. Even with the use of distilled water, the part being cleaned will end up with a black film on it. I remove the part from the bath and hive t a good scrubbing with a SS brush and the majority of the black stuff comes off. However, wipe it with a clean white rag and theres still some on there. I did this last night and this morning I inspected my brake drum and it seemed to have flash rusted overnight. Not terribly bad but noticeable. This also happened to my bearing cap. I had a jar of Evaporust handy do I dunked it in for half a day. This is what it looked like and ended up looking like. The flash rusting is more apparent on the brake drum. It’s simmering in Evaporust now and I‘ll post pics later. It’s an extra step but I think a winning combo. Steel treated with Evaporust is not supposed to flash rust.

Btw I apologize for all the rusty part pics. I promise the number will decrease soon. Just thought people may be interested as a walk through the process

View attachment 256272.

The ordinary hydroxide salts, potassium hydroxide and also sodium hydroxide, I vaguely recall, contain some chloride salts as a contaminant. This I think probably, in my total incompetence, is making a bit of hypochlorite... bleach. I guess you got a small amount of hypochlorte crystals in/on the surface...they're clingy little fellers. The rusted bits may also have some road salt rust...chlorides of iron, maybe. If so, and if the air is very stlil, you might even get a whiff of chlorine when the electrolysis bath is running. Maybe also H2 gas evolution...which is somethning to remember when making sparks... I'd think about more rinse (maybe in boiling water? and then off to the oven...and bit of warming, (removing the hydrogen that has dissolved in the iron..which will make it brittle and liable to cracking) how hot? Ah guess maybe 150 C...for 2 hours? then a dip in kero with a slug ofmineral oil mixed in. Your chemist pal would know all about it.. I'm not a chemist, just a old fella with old recollections, and some time. Thinking about the possibility of you making hypochlorite woke me up from sleep, thought I'd better mention it.

see https://sciencenotes.org/ for junior high level chemistry and fun stuff that might worry mom..

Best! 40N

 

[bosco659]

Ok, I know I said fewer pictures but just wanted to share this latest triumph. When I pulled the drum off of the LR I thought I’d have to buy new pieces for sure because of the corrosion. Here‘s the before and after. Lots of work but worthwhile I think. The last photo shows the porosity of the metal surface where the heavier rust was. It will fill in with paint. The finished surface is quite rough. I could hit it with sandpaper but I think I’m done - more than good enough. Process recap - scrape; wire wheel; degrease; electrolysis; wire brush; electrolysis; wire brush in hot water; immerse in Evaporust 24hrs; wash with hot water and nylon brush; ready for paint (if desired).

 

[bosco659]

Pretty busy afternoon working on the car. Removed the RR flex line that had welded itself to the mounting bracket with rust. Then removed the brake lines up to the T fitting at the back. So far all lines have come off without damage (all being replaced anyway). It’s nice to have them in one piece so when I bend tge new ones it’s a straight copy.
Removed the RHS swing arm boot. See the pic - no wonder it was leaking. The swing arm tubes had surface rust on them where the outer part of the boot needs to seal so a couple of hours were spent cleaning the tubes in that area. The transaxle side was fortunately quite clean.
Since I was under the car I decided to pull the starter motor to bench test it. I’d be pi$$ed if I put the engine in and it didn’t work. It’s a heavy little motor with cast bits on it. It’s 6V and I don’t have a battery yet so I may give it a quick jump with a 12V. The connection for the solenoid is interesting. The ignition switched lead is about 12ga (?) and has a little fitting crimped and soldered on the end. That wire goes into a post on the solenoid and is held in place by a small screw putting pressure on it from the side. No rubber boots or insulation. I’ll clean that stuff up and apply dielectric grease.
#2 brake drum got the derust treatment today. Next week I’ll visit a friend who may be able to resurface the contact surfaces.
Oil seals are on their way. With any luck I should be able to button everything up at the rear of tge car within a couple of weeks. Paint will be challenging with the cold weather.
I degreased the hardware for the brakes and will soak them in Evaporust over the weekend.
Check out the hose clamps they gave on the heater hoses. They look like the key and opener for a can of spam. Lol

 

[atom4488]

Pretty busy afternoon working on the car. Removed the RR flex line that had welded itself to the mounting bracket with rust. Then removed the brake lines up to the T fitting at the back. So far all lines have come off without damage (all being replaced anyway). It’s nice to have them in one piece so when I bend tge new ones it’s a straight copy.
Removed the RHS swing arm boot. See the pic - no wonder it was leaking. The swing arm tubes had surface rust on them where the outer part of the boot needs to seal so a couple of hours were spent cleaning the tubes in that area. The transaxle side was fortunately quite clean.
Since I was under the car I decided to pull the starter motor to bench test it. I’d be pi$$ed if I put the engine in and it didn’t work. It’s a heavy little motor with cast bits on it. It’s 6V and I don’t have a battery yet so I may give it a quick jump with a 12V. The connection for the solenoid is interesting. The ignition switched lead is about 12ga (?) and has a little fitting crimped and soldered on the end. That wire goes into a post on the solenoid and is held in place by a small screw putting pressure on it from the side. No rubber boots or insulation. I’ll clean that stuff up and apply dielectric grease.
#2 brake drum got the derust treatment today. Next week I’ll visit a friend who may be able to resurface the contact surfaces.
Oil seals are on their way. With any luck I should be able to button everything up at the rear of tge car within a couple of weeks. Paint will be challenging with the cold weather.
I degreased the hardware for the brakes and will soak them in Evaporust over the weekend.
Check out the hose clamps they gave on the heater hoses. They look like the key and opener for a can of spam. Lol

View attachment 256393

Those electrical connection posts are very effective. Much more positive connection than a spade terminal. Never had one fail. I think I still have fuse boxes and instrument lighting sockets that have those connectors. Give a holler if you need some.

 

[bosco659]

Those electrical connection posts are very effective. Much more positive connection than a spade terminal. Never had one fail. I think I still have fuse boxes and instrument lighting sockets that have those connectors. Give a holler if you need some.

Thanks. I seem to recall when I removed the signal and tail lights, they had a similar connector. I just need to clean up the contact surfaces.

 

[atom4488]

Thanks. I seem to recall when I removed the signal and tail lights, they had a similar connector. I just need to clean up the contact surfaces.

If I recall correctly, most if not all the connectors were of the post-and-screw type; taillights, headlights, vanity light, instruments, etc...At least until much later on, when the spade connector was adopted. I'm basing this on my 1959 Beetle. Built it a little; 1600 cc dual port engine, twin Solex carbs, header, external oil cooler and filter, Porsche 356 aluminum drum brakes (super effective!), good radial tires (was a big deal at the time!). Bought it out of a backyard for $25, built it, then drove from Montreal to Vancouver, Vancouver to LA and back. Good times!

 

[bosco659]

A little off topic, but I have been running a 6 volt starter on my Farmall BN for something like 25 years or more. I did replace the original 3 brush generator with a used GM alternator with an internal regulator. The few seconds that starter has to crank will never hurt the starter in what's left of my lifetime! Something like 5 years ago the original cheap 12 volt battery finally died after 15 or 20 years. Replaced it with the cheapest on I could buy that fit the box

So I should be good to test the starter with 12V without concern for damaging the starter?

 

[bosco659]

Just thinking about this oil change sticker. Would they write on the sticker when the next oil change was due or when it was completed?

Reason I ask is when I took the motor apart 26 years ago, the oil was pitch black. According to the sticker vs odometer, it would have been changed about 700 miles ago. The oil looked way too dirty for that. Then I thought maybe it’s when the oil was supposed to be changed (that seems to be the way now) and the po went past that recommendation by 700 miles. Final thought was the speedo is broken (worst case scenario). I’ll be able to check out the speedo when I do the front brakes. The speedo drive cable goes through the left front axle spindle and then into a square hole in the bearing dust cap. I can try spinning it with a drill.