AUTOMAN
XS650 Addict
My last purchase was $279/gal
cliff
cliff
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Homemade and Unique Tools
I filled the Beemer with premium, then it started running bad. Took a while for the bulb to come on, CRAP GAS! I had to syphon it out, cuz well it ain't easy getting to a fuel drain on a big BM, stuck in some fuel line, (hint; "thread" a big nut or two over the end of the fuel line, helps keep it down at the bottom of the tank).
Didn't want a mouth full of gas
..... AHA! grabbed the brake bleeding vacuum pump,
Keep the catch bottle in line so the pump doesn't get gas in it, push the fuel line just barely on the bottle fitting, suck til fuel comes near, remove line, stick it in a gas can, done! The bad gas went in the zero turn mower, it always gets the cruddy fuel. Got fresh gas for the bike, rode it, all better now.
Didn't want a mouth full of gas
..... AHA! grabbed the brake bleeding vacuum pump,Keep the catch bottle in line so the pump doesn't get gas in it, push the fuel line just barely on the bottle fitting, suck til fuel comes near, remove line, stick it in a gas can, done! The bad gas went in the zero turn mower, it always gets the cruddy fuel. Got fresh gas for the bike, rode it, all better now.
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Shop-made pressure blaster, dimple dies and a band roller. The band roller was needed for a specific job at the time and has since been re-configured to roll rings as well as bands.
DIY anodizing is pretty easy. With a billet, not cast, aluminum part start by cleaning it well, then into distilled water with lye(4l water 40 grams lye) for 3-5 minutes. Rinse in distilled water. Next is 4:3 ratio water and battery acid, you'll need either aluminum or lead in it hooked to the negative side of a DC power source, the part will be on titanium or aluminum wire and hooked to the positive side, adjustable is best but the 2a setting on a charger will work, time varies on part size and amps. Rinse then neutralize in baking soda/water for a few minutes, rinse again. Next is to suspend the part in 1l water per oz of rit dye at 140*f, 5-15 minutes to get desired darkness. Finally boil for 20 minutes in distilled water to seal in dye.
Here's a steering damper mount I made for my DRZ, pics are before/during/after.
Here's a steering damper mount I made for my DRZ, pics are before/during/after.
I did some anodising on my 74 TX650. I have a 10 litre bucket filled with watered down sulphuric acid, I used a 10 amp battery charger, set on power supply first off, but then bought a dedicated power supply. I leftt mine silver to blend in with the polished aluminium parts. It does a good job but it is easily scratched.
Attachments
Yeah, for some stuff I want to look into the difference between hard and regular anodizing. I know it used to be limited to certain colors for hard.
Edit* I did some reading on hard anodizing, it doesn't seem very DIY friendly. It requires much higher voltage and amperage(20-24a per sq/ft instead of about 4a sq/ft) and bubbling oxygen through the acid while keeping the temp close to 32*f.
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After anodising the surface will be soft and easily scratched. To harden the surface the part needs to be boiled. The boiling changes the surface properties making it hard and reduces the surface pore size. If you have applied dye then the boiling process will also trap the dye inside as the surface properties change.
Just saw this. Where did you get the M12 battery adaptor? Was that parts of the wideband kit?
I just bought a generic one from amazon. I didn't want to permanently wire it to the bike.
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Co...1702822427&sprefix=m12+adapter,aps,143&sr=8-3
Thanks! Looked it up and ordered one. This will be handy for bench testing and I can use it to keep the ecu powered up if I remove s battery from one of my cars.
Will a Lambda probe work close to the exhaust outlet? I somehow have it in my head that they need a high temperature to operate, or is the built in heater sufficient?
Can the electric heater on a Lambda probe be run continuously?
Can a Voltmeter be used to read the A/F Ratio?
Thank you for any feedback.
Can the electric heater on a Lambda probe be run continuously?
Can a Voltmeter be used to read the A/F Ratio?
Thank you for any feedback.
I used to run a portable unit to measure AFR’s on multiple vehicles. Some vehicles had bungs welded into the exhaust and others I clipped onto the tailpipe. I know the O2 sensor had a heater, but the unit itself controlled power to the heater, so I can’t say for sure if it was continuously in heat mode.
AUTOMAN
XS650 Addict
PWM heater. 800°f min.
In the exhaust stream as close behind the collector as you can, or shoved up the tailpipe, as far as possible. Turned out, there's a surprising amount of outside air gets sucked in to the rear portion of the system, which can skew figures.
Yep, others covered it pretty well. On my drz400 sticking into the pipe 12" worked with the outlet baffle, with no baffle too much fresh air was getting in.
I'm thinking about making high pipes for my XS now that I'm starting to work on it again. But I'll have to consider O2 placement since its fuel injected.
I'm thinking about making high pipes for my XS now that I'm starting to work on it again. But I'll have to consider O2 placement since its fuel injected.
AUTOMAN
XS650 Addict
6" past collector.
cliff
cliff
I crafted a little tool today to try and make brake flushing/bleeding a little easier. I took my spin from others’ suggestions of using a livestock syringe to push the fluid through the lines. I had a few old lines and banjo fittings around along with some old fittings from my generic Mity-vac. I picked up a 60cc syringe from tractor supply for just a few bucks too. I slightly drilled out the double barb fitting so it was a snug press fit on the syringe. Then I cut off a few banjo fittings, which are a press fit into the clear hose. I made two separate fittings. One with the banjo end to bolt onto the caliper and fill, and the other to screw into my brake lines that I can either push or pull fluid through. I will still have to bleed, but this should make things a bit easier.
*pictures aren’t uploading for some reason. Will try again later.
*pictures aren’t uploading for some reason. Will try again later.
I guess I should add that I made this to work on my Shovelhead, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work on the xs too.
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