gggGary

If not now, When?
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THE CURIOUS CASE OF THE EARLY CLUTCH
View attachment 122613

Today I pulled my clutch apart for inspection. I have already purchased a complete newer / improved clutch assembly from forum member Daniel Black, which I intend to install. However, this older style clutch interests me and I had considered running it for a while, but I think it would be problematic due to some obsolete rubber o rings used in the assembly. There are other unique properties that I thought some of you gear heads might find interesting. So here we go!
Here is what I’m starting with, six friction plates instead of the more modern seven, and take note of the color of the two friction plates in the center. 5Twins picked up on that right away, he said that the two center plates have aluminum centers and he was quite correct.
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What really surprised me though was that the other four friction plates seem to be made up entirely of fiber. ( If I’m wrong please correct me ) but I could not see any metal in them and a magnet won’t stick to them.
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Another difference is the absence of alignment marks on the pressure plate.
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Speaking of pressure plates, one of the reasons that I purchased a newer clutch assembly is that on this one, the only solid connection between the hub and the pressure plate is the six bolts. On the newer pressure plates they have splines on the outer edge that tie into the hub to make it much stronger. ( that info from 5Twins )
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And then there are the o rings. One of the primary reasons I switched to a newer unit. Here you can see how they are positioned on the hub.
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They are not really an o ring at all, they are shaped like a channel, and these are still very pliable and look to be in original shape.
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I also pulled my starter gear for inspection. The gear looked to be really not all that bad, some wear on the teeth, all the rubber is in perfect condition. I checked the slip resistance of the wishbone spring with a fishing scale and it slipped at ONLY TWO POUNDS !!
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I intend to replace the gear assembly and squeeze the new spring down to increase the slip resistance.

So until we meet again,and the case is sol-ved!
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Later, Bob
The early clutch on WJR is acting a bit sticky I think it may get an alto 8 plate conversion. Seems to work well for GLJ on his 72. :cool:
 

David Toll

Reliving my youth?
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Wrestling with my starter motor. Thought I had the old girl together and could look forward to riding into the sunset. Not so fast apparently, still, what would I do with my time if the XS was finished - make trouble?? I prefer to think of myself as a "trouble locator". Always good to hear from you Bob. Look forward to your next bike-borne travelogue.
Kind regards
 

GLJ

Never go faster than your guardian angle can fly.
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Didn’t Greg swap out his early clutch assembly for a newer model, as I did on my XS2? Mine came out of a ‘75.
Yes I put in a newer clutch. I think the Alto would work fine in a old clutch. I didn't use my original clutch basket because it had a broken spring.
 

Mailman

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The tygon fuel line and the cone shaped filters you used with it

Sorry, I’m a little slow! :confused:

I bought both of them from different vendors on EBay. The filters are Chinese made, nothing special. If you’re willing to wait for a slow boat to get them , they can be had for about $5.00 for a bag full of them.

The Tygon fuel line is a little smaller ID than I would’ve thought to purchase, I got this on 2M’s recommendation. It’s stretchy and makes a nice tight fit that doesn’t require a clamp to hold it. And it stays stretchy, it doesn’t harden up like some fuel line I have used in the past.
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yamahama

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While I'm thinking about it...I just purchased 3 cans of this Deoxit D5 5 oz. spray for $10 ea. Usual price on Amazon or 1 mi. from me @Guitar Center (they don't have it and can't find it anywhere < 50 mi.drive) is +-$16.00. Was pulling off old coils, condenser (who put that thing where it is), wire connectors to prep for a start up w/ fresh clean lube n filters. This stuff works electronic connection miracles. I intend to use it on all the wiring connectors (look pretty clean) and to flush, clean that left side (SX2) thumb switch and the like. I also have some "Super Lube" (harbor freight) clear dielectric grease that could be dabbed on after on moving contacts, however I found the Dioxit D5 does have light lube. Found it here, now, today on sale: https://www.parts-express.com/caig-deoxit-d5s-6-spray-5-oz-with-perfect-straw--341-200
Not familiar with it? Google it. Has kept my McIntosh stereo equipment going since 1980. It saved the 20 yr old mass AF sensor's sliding contacts on me car...just squirting the stuff in the end of the butterfly shaft where oil had entered! Thought I'd pass this savings along.
***No, I'm not going to bring the starter motor, clutch, charging circuit into play. Just turn it over a few kicks then try and light up the plugs/ engine with the cleaned out carbs, some inline filters and non ethanol gasoline.

gGary....I put a drop of Deoxit on top my 38 stuck in there 42.5 idle jets. Wiped down the rubber carb diaphragms with it too. may have brushed my teeth with it. :)
 

thuban

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Now I'm just saying, Comet Bathroom cleaner will make brass and copper look brand new with just a spray. Needs a good rinse and then your favorite Oxidation inhibitor. Deoxit is good stuff, for sure...but he didn't really brush his teeth with it. ( It will give you the squirts for three days!)
 

kshansen

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Now I'm just saying, Comet Bathroom cleaner will make brass and copper look brand new with just a spray. Needs a good rinse and then your favorite Oxidation inhibitor. Deoxit is good stuff, for sure...but he didn't really brush his teeth with it. ( It will give you the squirts for three days!)
That last part sounds like voice of experience talking!
 

yamahama

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Now I'm just saying, Comet Bathroom cleaner will make brass and copper look brand new with just a spray. Needs a good rinse and then your favorite Oxidation inhibitor. Deoxit is good stuff, for sure...but he didn't really brush his teeth with it. ( It will give you the squirts for three days!)

Actually, I have grown fond of this blue magic polish with the silicone. But for what yo described I would your my acrylic auto paint sealant on chrome steel, anything that will oxidize again. Did it on all my chrome I pulled off after cleaning in may just to get through the summer sitting.
 

thuban

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"acrylic auto paint sealant on chrome steel, anything that will oxidize again." You mean painting over your chrome with clear automotive sealant?
I mean , like silicone on your terminal ends.
( Never tried blue magic with silicone) I use Car Guys Detailing Hybrid wax and Mothers.
 

Grimly

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Being absolutely scunnered by the price of De-oxit this side of the pond I did some digging and found references to the origins of it.
Turns out the original was oleic acid in a solvent and it worked well for decades. I've no doubt the modern formulation is better, but for a fraction of the price I made my own version of the original.
I bought a 200 ml bottle of oleic acid, dissolved 5% in naptha-based charcoal lighter fluid and gave it a go.
It works quite well, but has to be rinsed out after it's done its magic, just like the original. I flush it out with meths or similar.
I've barely made a hole in that 200ml bottle and the first batch I made in a squirty bottle is still going strong.
 

Mikey

got muscles in his head that ain't never been used
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Sorry, I’m a little slow! :confused:

I bought both of them from different vendors on EBay. The filters are Chinese made, nothing special. If you’re willing to wait for a slow boat to get them , they can be had for about $5.00 for a bag full of them.

The Tygon fuel line is a little smaller ID than I would’ve thought to purchase, I got this on 2M’s recommendation. It’s stretchy and makes a nice tight fit that doesn’t require a clamp to hold it. And it stays stretchy, it doesn’t harden up like some fuel line I have used in the past.
View attachment 173197 View attachment 173198
Thanks !
 
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