Memory Lane

This is the best blade fuse box I have come across:

Screenshot_20240218-093331~2.png



https://www.cycleterminal.com/mp280-fuse-box.html

It was recommended by a member here and I installed one on my special last year.

Its affordable, compact, and weather resistant. You will need to have ratcheting crimper per to install.
 
Jim said:
It's usually pretty easy to get first or second using the "rocking" motion mentioned above. Sit on the bike and rock it back and forth while pulling up into second. It'll usually jus' pop right in.
When are we gonna see pics of the bike? We love pics here. :geek:
Click to expand...
Thanks! Had forgotten that, as well. Honestly, that's why I went looking for forums. So many little quirks lost in the years...
 
SEd27 said:
This is the best blade fuse box I have come across:

View attachment 262036


https://www.cycleterminal.com/mp280-fuse-box.html

It was recommended by a member here and I installed one on my special last year.

Its affordable, compact, and weather resistant. You will need to have ratcheting crimper per to install.
Click to expand...
Great site! Thanks much. Bookmarked. Good in the tools department. Husband likes trucks. And lights. I love tools. Armed for battle, 12 volt to 220/240. Is there an advantage, blade over glass? I was kinda thinking stay as close to OEM as possible... also concerned with seat clearance. Can't really tell what I've got there other than maybe close the seat with a spacer to check the physical fit.
 
Shelby said:
Great site! Thanks much. Bookmarked. Good in the tools department. Husband likes trucks. And lights. I love tools. Armed for battle, 12 volt to 220/240. Is there an advantage, blade over glass? I was kinda thinking stay as close to OEM as possible... also concerned with seat clearance. Can't really tell what I've got there other than maybe close the seat with a spacer to check the physical fit.
Click to expand...

Glass fuses tend to be more prone to breaking and are also becoming harder to find.

I was also concerned about seat clearance and relocated on the battery box under the right side cover (see below).

If you are careful and keep the wires long when cutting out the old fuse box, there should be enough slack in the harness to reposition without having to add extensions.


IMG_20240218_095618.jpg
 
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On starting a long term sitter I like to pull the plugs, shoot in some rust buster and kick or spin the electric start many times, squirt in some oil, repeat. Gets everything lubed up again before trying to start it. I think it reduces the chance of a sticky valve hitting a piston and raining on your parade.
 
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SEd27 said:
Glass fuses tend to be more prone to breaking and are also becoming harder to find.

I was also concerned about seat clearance and relocated on the battery box under the right side cover (see below).

If you are careful and keep the wires long when cutting out the old fuse box, there should be enough slack in the harness to reposition without having to add extensions.


View attachment 262038
Click to expand...
Ooooh..very nice.. very tidy ? Say.. SEd27... ever been to Minnesota ? bring yer wire strippers :)
 
If you are concerned about the amount of room under the seat, here is another option for fuse arrangement:

I did this on my '82 and '83 and it has been working fine for many years.

Snip all the fuse wires to appropriate lengths (progressively longer as you go so that they fall together nicely), labelling each as you go. Connect modern automotive fuses of the correct amperage with simple female .25 wire crimp connectors (Walmart and all auto parts stores have these common connectors and fuses) like I did here:

1708357515692.png


....and then stuff them all into a section of bicycle inner tube for insulation:

1708357649462.png


And then you can fold/tuck the assembly in front of the battery and secure with the battery strap.


IMG_5504.JPG
 
SEd27 said:
Glass fuses tend to be more prone to breaking and are also becoming harder to find.

I was also concerned about seat clearance and relocated on the battery box under the right side cover (see below).

If you are careful and keep the wires long when cutting out the old fuse box, there should be enough slack in the harness to reposition without having to add extensions.
Click to expand...
Wow, neat trick. Great pics!
 
gggGary said:
On starting a long term sitter I like to pull the plugs, shoot in some rust buster and kick or spin the electric start many times, squirt in some oil, repeat. Gets everything lubed up again before trying to start it. I think it reduces the chance of a sticky valve hitting a piston and raining on your parade.
Click to expand...
Excellent advice. Pretty sure she's not been kicked over in way too many years.
 

Tore down the air cleaner boxes and discovered something I've not seen before. Instead of the disintegrating yellow foam I was expecting, she's got K&N's. Shaped like the originals, but the similarity stops there. Took me a while to find them on line, and naturally they're discontinued. Can't even find another set on EBay. Any suggestions on care and cleaning? Figured K&N Filter Wash & spray air cleaner oil. Really wish these were still made. Don't like not having a backup (Possibly because the OEM filters on both the original bikes turned to nasty yellow crumbs first time I opened the boxes). These look like they should last well if I take care of them right. ​

​

K&N Replacement Air Filter YAMAHA XS650 80-83 2 PER BOX YA-1892​

Price : $89.99 Discontinued
1708490751524.png
 
Yes, K&N filters will last many, many years if properly cared for. Use the right stuff, the K&N cleaner and the K&N oil. Most auto parts stores sell this stuff as K&Ns have become popular in cars (I have them in mine). Being airbox replacements and enclosed in the airbox, they won't get very dirty so should seldom need cleaning. That's a good thing because the more you clean them, the faster they wear out, lol. They are made of surgical gauze trapped between two layers of screen. When you clean them, be gentle. Use a soft brush (an old paint brush is good). But it's said they actually filter better once they get a little dirty,
 
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YamadudeXS650C said:
. . . Connect modern automotive fuses of the correct amperage with simple female .25 wire crimp connectors (Walmart and all auto parts stores have these common connectors and fuses) . . .
Click to expand...
Good stuff @YamadudeXS650C. When I was rewiring my Bullet, I hit on the same idea - using female crimp connectors to hold a blade fuse, instead of putting a fuse box. It's so easy I thought 'Doh, why didn't I think of this before?' Also used bicycle inner tube to tidy up and give some damp proofing.

@Shelby, nice Special, good luck with getting 'er back on the road where she belongs.
 
mrtwowheel said:
View attachment 262228I
Click to expand...
I did this on 2 Honda's with limited space and crummy glass fuses. Those are Walmart female blade connectors with the insulators carved off, crimped and soldered, covered with shrink tube. A tidy sub harness that plugs into the main harness. The glass fuses did not fair well in that area with high frequency vibration. There's a cover that goes over them, those parts are painted now.
 
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