New here, need some help!!

Oh okay I understand. But see everywhere is running 12.7 volts. There isn't a lesser amount except on the coil itself.. I don't know what else to do besides replace coil. The wiring is good, it's hooked up correctly and everywhere is getting the normal 12v except the coil shows 10 and then the ignition is only getting 10 from the coil..

side note, your English is very good because i didn't know you weren't a primary English speaker lol
 
So what you are saying there are 12 V everywhere but just not on the ignition parts.
Where it is 10 V
Is the # 161 kick test performed ?
With no spark ?
I need to think .. and perhaps someone else can come in since I am not updated on the ignition.
My first thought was to disconnect the coil .Se what happens with voltage at ignition box
And then the opposite But that can be dangerous for the parts so dont do that yet..
But if i remember corrct Jim had a Coil testing routine here.
 
So I took apart the coil from the bike and tested both plug terminals and the primary terminals etc, And it's coming up a little bit lower than it should not by much but definitely lower. When I tested it when it was still hooked up to the ignition and everything was on the coil and the ignition is only reading 10 volts so I would assume that the problem is coming from the coil not transferring the complete 12 and only transferring 10.. I'm not exactly sure how it works if it works like that or not though. My thought was to see what happens with voltage at the ignition as well but the thing is so fragile it says everywhere not to do that so I don't really know how to test the ignition. Aside from measuring the voltage at the red white wire connected to the coil which is where I'm getting 10 volts..

But team junk as for doing that the kill switch is completely new in the wires are completely new there isn't any crud or anything on it
 
There is resistance somewhere between the battery positive and the coil. It could be the coil itself if your measuring to voltage on the - terminal of the coil in which case everything is normal. There 2 terminals on the coil. One side should be at full battery voltage and the other side should have a voltage drop because of the resistance of the coil. If that is case then this is a normal reading.
 
Please do the # 161 kick test ?
And report what you see Nothing at all or weak
And report exactly what ignition parts we are working with
I am thinking in tems of connecting ignition directly from the fresh battery with an inline fuse.
 
There is resistance somewhere between the battery positive and the coil. It could be the coil itself if your measuring to voltage on the - terminal of the coil in which case everything is normal. There 2 terminals on the coil. One side should be at full battery voltage and the other side should have a voltage drop because of the resistance of the coil. If that is case then this is a normal reading.

Yes the side that's supposed to be full voltage is only reading 10V. The other side was lower but I didn't mark that down I honestly didn't think to..I think it was 7-8ish? I have to get new spark plug wires because when I removed the coil it ruined the top, and the stupid shop I got it from before cut them so short if I cut it I won't be able to get it to the spark plugs lol
 
Please do the # 161 kick test ?
And report what you see Nothing at all or weak
And report exactly what ignition parts we are working with
I am thinking in tems of connecting ignition directly from the fresh battery with an inline fuse.

I didn't think you could attach it like that even with a fuse? I could be wrong bc I'm new completely to this lol. The kick test I will do once I have the spark plug wires and coil reattached! I ordered a new coil in the meantime and will just keep it in the package before I use it in the case nothing is wrong with mine

By the way, where do you see numbers on the posts??
 
Is Pittsburgh pa just junk? I mean seriously can't even find spark plug wire now!! I've found NOTHING for motorcycles ugh. I hate Pa
There must be some upside?

I live in a rural area of Scotland, there are no motorcycle dealers within an hour's drive, so I rely on the internet and doing my own servicing.

But at least the roads are scenic and can easily get away from traffic.
 
I honestly couldn't name one! Pittsburgh is a mess of a city lol. But somebody told me to check the pulse coils on the stator plate. Is a stator the same thing as PMA? I think I keep getting confused. Also, if this is something that I need to check do you guys have any pictures or diagrams or something to show me or just explain really well how to do that? Hooking up coil today to test for spark but didn't know about this other thing a friend told me.
 
The pulse coils are the pickup coils for the TCI. They are on the stator under a black plastic cover. A 3 pin connector connects them to the wiring harness near the alternator connector. These coils rarely cause trouble so I doubt they are the problem.
 
The pulse coils are the pickup coils for the TCI. They are on the stator under a black plastic cover. A 3 pin connector connects them to the wiring harness near the alternator connector. These coils rarely cause trouble so I doubt they are the problem.

Okay so since mine is PMA and electronic ignition and dual coil I don't have a TCI.. right? That's what PO told me at least? Sorry for being super newbie lol. The maker of the coil said the coil is rarely the problem and to test the pulse coils and stuff which is why I wanted to ask you guys first.. i do think I might need a new PMA because it's a d&m and they don't even exist anywhere, I haven't idea how old it is or anything
 
I forgot that you have a Pamco style ignition. There is no pulsar coil because the pamco uses a hall effect sensor on the circuit board instead of a sensing coil.
 
No that's okay, I just wanted to make sure it's two different things! Would my PMA be a reason it isn't starting, and if yes, is there a way to test it?

Have you ever heard of D&M PMA? I have looked everywhere for it online and can't find a company named that but it's etched into my PMA lol
 
I would test for battery power at the coil with that wire disconnected. See if there is a difference with the wire connected or disconnected from the coil.
 
I would test for battery power at the coil with that wire disconnected. See if there is a difference with the wire connected or disconnected from the coil.

Wait you mean test the dual coil with the positive red wire disconnected? Or the green wire disconnected? Those are the only two attached to the coil from the electronic ignition
 
Back
Top