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Kevin Werner

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View attachment 252933
I'm torn on the center stand mount! To cut off or not?🤔 End result I would like the frame as clean as possible, but I really do enjoy having a readily available center stand....going for a lean/clean scrambler here
My son just bought a tracker. The builder left the mount on the frame and included the stand. It sits in the garage till needed. It is simple to mount the stand for maintenance, then remove the bolts and stand. Just one option. 36th Georgia has a good one too
 

Peepz

Learning the hard way
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Frame blasted, somewhat de-tabbed, crude build-stand slapped together from my spare wood pile. Curious if you guys nearly reassemble before painting the frame? Just ensure you have all the tabs u want etc. in the correct places? Obviously I'm a ways out from that, just curious as to build order some of you experienced guys follow? I'm thinking set ride height first, get shocks rebuilt and fitted, wheels and tires sorted, then move on to the fun-to-me stuff like the electronics tray.
1000002000.jpg
 

Jim

Beyond the edge is the unknown. Here be Dragons
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Curious if you guys nearly reassemble before painting the frame? Just ensure you have all the tabs u want etc. in the correct places?
Yes, if you've detabbed the frame, you'll want to reassemble everything to make sure your new tabbing works to hold everything as it should. Then tear back apart and paint.
 

Halftwist

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Frame blasted, somewhat de-tabbed, crude build-stand slapped together from my spare wood pile. Curious if you guys nearly reassemble before painting the frame? Just ensure you have all the tabs u want etc. in the correct places? Obviously I'm a ways out from that, just curious as to build order some of you experienced guys follow? I'm thinking set ride height first, get shocks rebuilt and fitted, wheels and tires sorted, then move on to the fun-to-me stuff like the electronics tray.
View attachment 253937
Looking good!

IMO it’s good to get them running and even riding and shake them down. Nothing worse than grinding on nice new powder coat or paint because this tab has to be moved or that bracket angle has to be changed because of some unforeseen circumstance that seems to be building custom motorcycles😂 it’s a lot of extra work so it depends on the level you’re taking the build to. But Montana winters at long so you got nothin but time… and hopefully a heater lol
 

Peepz

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Looking good!

IMO it’s good to get them running and even riding and shake them down. Nothing worse than grinding on nice new powder coat or paint because this tab has to be moved or that bracket angle has to be changed because of some unforeseen circumstance that seems to be building custom motorcycles😂 it’s a lot of extra work so it depends on the level you’re taking the build to. But Montana winters at long so you got nothin but time… and hopefully a heater lol
Cool, that's the plan then! Basically build er then worry about paint! Thanks!
 

Peepz

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Thought this was interesting, when removing the center stand mounts it seems the factory welded this cross tube to the center stand mount, not the side rail of the frame, at least the part where they overlap
1000002001.jpg
So for now I laid a few beads to tie to two back together, the cross member to frame rail, then dressed to somewhat look like a factory weld again


PXL_20231023_175711222.jpg
 

JOHNDADDY

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Yes, 200 six. Ignition problem recently popped up on original ignition. Starts but dies when I release the key switch. I suspect the condenser but will replace plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser. The key switch was newly replace when I worked on/restored the car in 1991. (That is next inline)
A 22 year old switch? Might be worth a multimeter check, my wife killed a new on in half that time on a Civic. Lots of keys and fobs on her ring. IMHO. :)
 

Wingedwheel

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Thought this was interesting, when removing the center stand mounts it seems the factory welded this cross tube to the center stand mount, not the side rail of the frame, at least the part where they overlap
I don’t think the QC was too stringent on the line back then. I’ve seen a few welds on these frames that looked like I did them! Lol
 

46th Georgia

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Frame blasted, somewhat de-tabbed, crude build-stand slapped together from my spare wood pile. Curious if you guys nearly reassemble before painting the frame? Just ensure you have all the tabs u want etc. in the correct places? Obviously I'm a ways out from that, just curious as to build order some of you experienced guys follow? I'm thinking set ride height first, get shocks rebuilt and fitted, wheels and tires sorted, then move on to the fun-to-me stuff like the electronics tray.
View attachment 253937
Nice stand and nice work on the frame!
 

Peepz

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So, decided to attack the triples and the forks first! Decided to detab the lower, I think it worked out ok. 1000002028.jpg
Started by lopping off the "nugget" I didn't want. Then went to work with the file sander, gently
PXL_20231029_215147490.jpg
Once I got it close I had to fill that old bolt hole with a few tacks, then continue sanding to desired contour.
PXL_20231029_220958303.jpg
Came out pretty good! I want to get this lower triple painted up because once that new tapered bearing gets pressed on, it's on! Lol, don't want to try and work around it.
 

Peepz

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When assembling this bike in the mock up stage, do you guys think it's ok to leave the tapered triple tree bearings dry of grease? The reason I ask is, eventually i will have to disassemble to have the frame powder coated and I don't want to have to dig a bunch of new grease out of the neck of the frame to avoid burning a bunch of it off in the powder oven?
 

Peepz

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Pumped the brakes for the last few weeks, dabbled in powder coating awhile back and finally decided to return to it and learn it right. I figure I can be coating all the small bits as I go on this build. Here's a few shots of a yeti mug I just shot black then added some green candy clear over ... definitely not perfect, still trying to get the process down
 

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