I believe I read that one of the carb brackets needs to be notched. Can anyone tell me where to do this, the motor is not in the bike yet so it is hard to figure it out. A pic would be perfect. thanks tim
I believe I read that one of the carb brackets needs to be notched. Can anyone tell me where to do this, the motor is not in the bike yet so it is hard to figure it out. A pic would be perfect. thanks tim
You'll really like them when you get them dialed in. I couldn't find a way to fit an inline fuel filter like the ones in your pic - the fuel inlet T is too far off center toward the lefthand carb. You can use a rail filter instead. The top bracket needs to be relieved past the point of the angle in order to get enough clearance in front of the frame downtube - ask me how I know!Ooooooh look what I got for Easter ...View attachment 98224
I couldn't see you guys getting all the fun so I grabbed these two sets for a song off ebay last week.
I've got as far as post #20 so I've still got a lot of reading to do to catch up but I'm really looking forward to this project. They appear complete and one set was clearly cleaned and in use recently which will make things a lot easier.
I've just cleaned my BS38s again for this season and after 3 years of trying to buy a spare set of BS38s I've thrown in the towel and gone over to the dark side.
You'll really like them when you get them dialed in. I couldn't find a way to fit an inline fuel filter like the ones in your pic - the fuel inlet T is too far off center toward the lefthand carb. You can use a rail filter instead. The top bracket needs to be relieved past the point of the angle in order to get enough clearance in front of the frame downtube - ask me how I know!
I used my OEM throttle cable, shortened about 3/4", after fitting the long-shank cable adjuster shown in the pic to the carb set. I got this adjuster on eBay. I don't know if the shank on our clutch cable adjusters is long enough for them to attach to the carbs and still have a decent range of adjustment. The rail filter is Kawasaki P/N 49019-1085, available from Ron Ayers, current price $4.36 each. I bought two and put one in the open leg of the vent line just to keep anything from getting into the carbs through that opening.thanks for the heads up . The 2x inline filters are for my BS38s that will be going back on today .
The GPZ500 are going to need a lot of work yet before I can fit them. I'm hoping to use my existing throttle cable and I have a bar mounted choke that I shall link up too.
I can't believe how small and light these are compared to the BS38s .the fuel bowls are half the size and only a single fuel line ...amazing.
Your frame of reference for choke operation is not clear to me. The "choke" (actually an fuel-adding, not an air-starving mechanism) is "on" when the bar that operates them is pulled to the left ("left" when in riding position on the bike) and the shafts of the enrichers are showing. In that context, "poking it in" would turn the enrichers off. The attached pic, taken from the engine-in ("front") of the carbs shows the simple cable-type choke operator that I use - I believe that it's shown and identified somewhere in the long EX500 carbs thread on this website..Peanut! i have yet to fit any sort of remote choke operation... i just poke it in with my finger until it warms enough to run without (never more than 10-20seconds) however, it did occur to me that one easy way to test tank vacuum question, is just to burn it up with petrol cap slightly open.. might give that a go, as an easy thing to rule out at least..
i did the DGR the year before last, and may do this year! was good fun, London awash with custom and classic bikes ridden by berks (like me!) in tweed, and getting lost!
thanks guys, it does seem unlikely that running 140s is too lean, but have ordered next size up just in case.. will report back... !
OK, sounds good.sorry if that wasnt clear... when i say "poke" i mean i poke it from the the right when sitting on the bike and slide the spring loaded bar to the left, activating the enricheners, as you rightly say.. i have yet to rig up any form of remote "choke" control, simply because i dont need it.. even in very cold temps, the bike starts on the button with 20-30 seconds "poke" to get to stable idle temp.
Where is it rich, Idle, top end or midrange? Depending on where it rich is where you make changes.
The carb guide ha a "Tuning For Mods" section. Yes the carb guide is for the stock carbs but the same basic principles apply.
Start with the WOT testing to get the mains right, then do the midrange testing to get the needle right, then do the idle testing to get the pilots right.
Leo
Now cut that out WER! No grease on diaphragms! If anything a touch of pure silicone like dielectric silicone, yeah it's expensive, but cheaper than a new diaphragm. There's a trick with "shrunk" diaphragms and working the cap just so to get it back down with the diaphragm in the groove. You'll get there.
I'm not a carb guru but I do have a little common sense. Here is the problem I am now having and it has me stumped. The bike starts 1st kick every time and runs like a top, but after the bike is warm the Rpms are dropping them the bike will stall out. I have had these Damn carbs off at least 10 times and I have checked (float height, needle postion, air leaks) them and cleaned them before I put them back on. These carbs are very promising but I can't figure this issue out. I have looked at the float needles and they seem to be in good working order also, but I'm losing gas if it sits to long ( I have clear fuel lines).
Someone please tell me how to determine if the float needle aren't seated properly. All signs lead to this being the problem.
Could it be that I put the needle floats on the tang backwards