Hey all, I am putting together a 1978 650. Came to me in a few different milk crates. Parts of the original harness are pretty mangled and the LH control switch is more or less destroyed so I bought a TUSK wire harness that is a pretty universal setup. It comes with a all new LH control switch for signals, horn, Hi/Lo beam and you can turn the headlight off and on. It all is powered directly off the battery with an inline fuse and doesn't go into the original electrical at all. It is completely independent.
Now, I am installing clip-ons and finally read about the grounding through the handle bars starter button setup. I would like to still use the safety relay if possible as well. Now, I obviously can't wire in a grounding setup like the original so trying to come up with something that is safe and reliable. Where it runs through the bars to the LH switch then to a grounding wire I believe.
The only way I can get it to work is by putting a stripped wire from the RH inside housing and then run it to a black ground wire. The wire end is stripped to bare wire and placed in the RH switch housing making contact with the inside of it. The only thing though is the starter motor still kicks over even when I put the ON/OFF switch to the OFF switch and hit the starter button. When the ignition key is off everything is unpowered as expected so that works fine. So it works on both on and off positions.
So, hoping one of the gurus could give me a lead on what the best route would be here. I have a Hughs Handbuilt CDI kit I also will be installing. No Ignition system is hooked up yet. I have the original regulator and rectifier plugged in but the stock stator is out of the motor.
Heres the harness: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-enduro-lighting-kit-replacement-wire-harness-p
Here is the new LH switch: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-compact-control-switch-with-headlight-options-p
Again, running the original RH starter button on/off switch with an aftermarket LH switch that is completely independent from the original wire harness. It will get switched power from a keyed power wire though...
Thanks!
Now, I am installing clip-ons and finally read about the grounding through the handle bars starter button setup. I would like to still use the safety relay if possible as well. Now, I obviously can't wire in a grounding setup like the original so trying to come up with something that is safe and reliable. Where it runs through the bars to the LH switch then to a grounding wire I believe.
The only way I can get it to work is by putting a stripped wire from the RH inside housing and then run it to a black ground wire. The wire end is stripped to bare wire and placed in the RH switch housing making contact with the inside of it. The only thing though is the starter motor still kicks over even when I put the ON/OFF switch to the OFF switch and hit the starter button. When the ignition key is off everything is unpowered as expected so that works fine. So it works on both on and off positions.
So, hoping one of the gurus could give me a lead on what the best route would be here. I have a Hughs Handbuilt CDI kit I also will be installing. No Ignition system is hooked up yet. I have the original regulator and rectifier plugged in but the stock stator is out of the motor.
Heres the harness: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-enduro-lighting-kit-replacement-wire-harness-p
Here is the new LH switch: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-compact-control-switch-with-headlight-options-p
Again, running the original RH starter button on/off switch with an aftermarket LH switch that is completely independent from the original wire harness. It will get switched power from a keyed power wire though...
Thanks!