... Practice on one of the A's, have some mineral spirits, brush and cloths ready to wash off the paint. Really don't see any possible control in that syringe/dropper method...
Excellent points, Scott. Yeah, trying to squeeze the bulb and maintain control is probably a too busy task for a couple of fingers. Going to rethink this. What I'd like is something I can hold more naturally, with better control, like a tattoo pen, without the needle.
Steal your grand daughter's black nail polish, there's even a convenient applicator in the lid.
Yeah, probably acrylic enamel, good thickness and coverage. One letter at a time, wipe and clean the edges with cloth, Q tips and solvent.
In my aimless stumbling around town, I chanced upon an arts and crafts shop, with some ladies shopping in the artists/paint section. What a great way to
Before they could escape, I managed to block their exit,and started a lively conversation about this project. Once they calmed down and put away the mace, they started discussing the fine/pointed brush techniques, as you fellows have suggested. Then, one mentioned using tiny bulb suckers, as used in babies ears and noses. Another suggested black fingernail polish (easily found near the Halloween season).
I struck out on the baby bulb suckers, then explored fingernail polish. Most of the blacks were lacquer, found only one in enamel. Its ingredients included some varieties of plant-derived organics, with the label "Lasts up to 12 days!". You would've enjoyed the looks I got when asking about heat tolerance up to 300°F. Passed on that.
... Shim under the Engine cover untill the bottom of the letter is level and secure it. Then you can just eyedropper the paint in into the base of the cavity. Don't bump it until it's dry. Never tried. Just makes sense to me.
...Once it's level the paint should spread itself to cover with gravity. Might take a little vibration to spread. Just hold the butt end of your cordless drill against the case to vibrate...
Hey, Jame5on. Yes, that's what I'd really prefer to do. Let the paint self-level, without the tedious and intricate manipulation of the paint edges (using its surface tension, adhesion, crawling, whatever) as shown in the first video.
Long, long ago, I built and meticulously painted many, many models. I always had troubles with crisp/straight paint edges. Not in my skillset. Same with house painting, trim edges looked like "drunk painter". Plenty of practice time in those projects. Unconquerable. Not worried about it. Can't play the piano, either.
Hence, this pursuit of the "flooded" technique...