DIY side cover knob fix - replacement

DogBunny

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s-l1600o.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M4-M5-M6-F...126446?hash=item2cfd69bd6e:g:EkoAAOSw0w9d3il0
I bought the M6 x 40mm size.

DSC03246.JPG

Diameter is about the same as the original.

DSC03245.JPG

Made the hole for the roll pin 9mm from the end. This puts just a little less tension on the spring than original. I think the original tension was just a little high, which contributes to the original knobs failing.

DSC03237.JPG

The replacement knob has a recess on the back side of the plastic that the spring fits into perfectly.
I used a 5/64 roll pin from a $5 Harbor Freight roll pin kit.

DSC03241.JPG

Voila.

DSC03238.JPG

Except for the replacement Chinese knob and the roll pin, everything else is original parts.
I got this idea from this thread:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/tired-...hes-cheap-perminant-fix-here-with-pics.29532/
It has some other good ideas.
BTW, those knobs are cheaper to buy in quantity. I f anyone else wants to try this, I have extras.

Untitled-1.jpg
 
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Mailman

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View attachment 178528
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M4-M5-M6-F...126446?hash=item2cfd69bd6e:g:EkoAAOSw0w9d3il0
I bought the M6 x 40mm size.

View attachment 178529
Diameter is about the same as the original.

View attachment 178530
Made the hole for the roll pin 9mm from the end. This puts just a little less tension on the spring than original. I think the original tension was just a little high, which contributes to the original knobs failing.

View attachment 178531
The replacement knob has a recess on the back side of the plastic that the spring fits into perfectly.
I used a 5/64 roll pin from a $5 Harbor Freight roll pin kit.

View attachment 178532
Voila.

View attachment 178533
Except for the replacement Chinese knob and the roll pin, everything else is original parts.
I got this idea from this thread:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/tired-...hes-cheap-perminant-fix-here-with-pics.29532/
It has some other good ideas.
BTW, those knobs are cheaper to buy in quantity. I f anyone else wants to try this, I have extras.

That’s a nice work around, looks like it came that way from the factory. Good job! Also, I like your big kickstart pedal, I broke my right foot several years ago and it never really healed right, it’s always a painful experience for me to kickstart my bike.
 

ThatXS650Guy

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That's a clean solution. I purchased the very expensive Mike's replacements but they did not last long. I ended up using a nut-sert and a 6mm bolt.
I might change out the bolt for those knobs.

sidecover bolt.JPG
sidecover nutsert.JPG
 

DogBunny

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That’s a nice work around, looks like it came that way from the factory. Good job! Also, I like your big kickstart pedal, I broke my right foot several years ago and it never really healed right, it’s always a painful experience for me to kickstart my bike.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/conver-your-kicker-to-harley-pedal-style.43882/
Link to the popsicle kickstart lever mod, post #3.
That's a clean solution. I purchased the very expensive Mike's replacements but they did not last long. I ended up using a nut-sert and a 6mm bolt.
I might change out the bolt for those knobs.

View attachment 178536 View attachment 178535
Yes, looks like you need a tool to take your cover off. The knob should fix that.
 

5twins

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Nice fix. N.O.S. knobs are like gold, very expensive and hard to find. Any tips on drilling the roll pin hole? What size drill bit for instance. And the length of the roll pin used?
 

DogBunny

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Nice fix. N.O.S. knobs are like gold, very expensive and hard to find. Any tips on drilling the roll pin hole? What size drill bit for instance. And the length of the roll pin used?
DSC03247.JPG

I just used a hand held drill motor. Held the knob in vice grips as shown so that I could steady the drill motor with both hands. Drilled a 1/16" pilot hole. Used a 5/64" harbor freight roll pin that was 1" long, that I ground down to 16mm long, same as stock. Made the final hole a little bigger than 5/64" so that the roll pin would go in easier, using a #44 numbered drill. When done, I tapered the end of the shank to a blunt point, just like stock, using a bench grinder.
The stock knob shank is 6mm, so the replacement Chinese M6 knob is the same diameter, only it has a little less meat because of the threads. And the 5/64" roll pin is a little smaller than stock. So, they are both a little less robust than stock.
 

5twins

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Yes, but at a substantial savings over the cost of a stock knob (if you can even find one, lol). You can afford to replace it every few years if need be. I have a couple packs of #45 drill bits for doing the Minton Mods, should be perfect.
 

member28833

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Those hardware store knobs look very useful for custom side cover applications and custom seat mounts which is another "to do" one of these days.
However, after following all this, this original knob is now going into lock down.. ;)
 

5twins

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The ones on my '78 are the originals and I treat them with kid gloves, lol. I keep all the moving parts and contact points greased (spring, shaft, roll pin, hole in frame).
 

gggGary

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The ones on my '78 are the originals and I treat them with kid gloves, lol. I keep all the moving parts and contact points greased (spring, shaft, roll pin, hole in frame).

I'll add in if your technique is good the knobs are like energizer bunnies.
You need to push IN before turning. both on install and removal, That eliminates the twisting stress on the knob that causes it to crack.
Madness has had the covers on and off as much as any bike in history and the knobs have been swapped to several sets of side covers. still soldiering on.
 

JRay77

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I don't like using standard fasteners on a Japanese MC if I can help it.

Ok get a metric thumb screw. Sure they make metric knobs too. I just don't like welding the nut to the bracket. Did a quick google, hell they even have stainless metric knobs. Cheap too. Options are endless. We have the same end result just one way is less permanent. Another edit...haha. We can all agree the stock knob engineering is whack. Springs wear out, roll pins bend, and plastic drys out and breaks eventually.
 
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DogBunny

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Very nice fix DB!
Thanks, but again, all I did was to find a good, cheap substitute. Not much brain or fab work involved with the fix.
I'll add in if your technique is good the knobs are like energizer bunnies.
You need to push IN before turning. both on install and removal, That eliminates the twisting stress on the knob that causes it to crack.
Madness has had the covers on and off as much as any bike in history and the knobs have been swapped to several sets of side covers. still soldiering on.
Excellent point. Never considered this before. I think everyone reading this knows to push the knob in before turning, but an inexperienced user wouldn't, and they are the ones who have ruined all of the old knobs. Maybe the original knobs aren't as fragile as I've always thought, they are just victims of heavy-handedness.
Ok get a metric thumb screw. Sure they make metric knobs too. I just don't like welding the nut to the bracket. Did a quick google, hell they even have stainless metric knobs. Cheap too. Options are endless. We have the same end result just one way is less permanent. Another edit...haha. We can all agree the stock knob engineering is whack. Springs wear out, roll pins bend, and plastic drys out and breaks eventually.
I like your fix, and you are obviously justifiably proud of it, but it's hard to argue with two knobs that look similar to stock, delivered to your door for $3, and all you have to do is drill a hole in their shafts...
 
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