robinc's 73TX650 Restoration, and so it begins.......

robinc

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We'll, I didn't need another project, and I certainly don't need another thread to update but what the hey I guess.

Dude and Mailman have been nudging me to start a build thread so I figured I might as well document what I do when I do it. Not planning to do much on this one till next year, but then again my plans do change often. Not going to do much on this one right now but would like to get it to spin before I ignore her for a few months.

I guess since this is the resto thread on this bike I'd better repost the 'as is’ pics to show where it started from. Dang it anyways and pardon me for repeating myself.

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As I had mentioned in my original intro post the engine is seized but as I'm a glutton for punishment and always enjoy a challenge I figured I'd try to unseize it. I know a top end rebuild will be required on a seized engine as there will likely be piston ring rust marks on the cylinders and a 45 year old one needs it anyways. Likely a rebore coming. No big deal.
(Not that I'm opposed to doing that, been wishing for another one. Wish granted.)

But, I would still like to see if I can break it free, just cause.

Been spraying valves, plug holes and seized clutch adjuster with PB Blaster for about a week now.
I have been doing Pete's Fred Flintstone walk for a few days now and no joy. All I'm doing is putting skid marks on the shop floor. Started out with PB Blaster, now trying ATF/Acetone mix in a last ditch attempt,

No clutch so figured I'd start with that. Clutch cable was either disconnected or came undone and adjuster screw was seized up tight.

So I had some time today and figured I'd see if I could get the clutch adjuster loosened up.

No - ones been in here for awhile doing any of 5twins 'spring cleaning’

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Don't you hate 'ham fisted’ PO's. I’ve been spraying the adjuster nut with PB for a week and still needed to heat it up with a propane torch to break it loose.

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My plan was to just break this loose and reinstall it to see if my clutch pack was seized or not, but dangit anyways. No way I could put that back on lookin’ like this.

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Ah well, at least one part of her is cleaned up.
Ran out of time today so will update when I can see if I can adjust the clutch and if I have any clutch basket movement. If not the right case comes off and the clutch pack comes apart.

Will keep playing Fred Flintstone in the meantime.

But, I'm not doing any work on this bike till next year...........
 
Thanks Bob. I'm happy you elbowed me into getting going on this. Won't be as much to catch up on in the future. At least we've got a start now.

Maybe I'm wasting my time trying to break it loose, but as I mentioned I like a challenge and am open to all suggestions. I would like to get her to spin before I put her to bed for awhile, and even see if I can get a compression test or see if I can I start her up in spite of the fact that I know a top end is required. Will keep plugging away as time permits amongst other projects.
 
I'm sure you'll get to it eventually, but if you look at your pic of the countershaft sprocket, you can see the fold-up lock washer is installed incorrectly. It's off center which means it's teeth are not locked into the shaft splines. It's not doin' nothin' like that.

I'm also thinking that eventually, in the quest for an easier clutch pull, that you may be changing out at least the male portion of that worm assembly. That's the early short arm style which makes for a harder lever pull.
 
It appears you may have some better quality aftermarket rear shocks there, Mulhollands maybe. 42K, boy, that bike has covered some territory, lol.

Worm gear lock nuts always seem to be stuck. I use a socket fitted to a drywall screw gun. It's minor impacting power has always been enough so far to break them free. Then the screw and nut get a liberal coating of anti-seize.
 
I'm sure you'll get to it eventually, but if you look at your pic of the countershaft sprocket, you can see the fold-up lock washer is installed incorrectly. It's off center which means it's teeth are not locked into the shaft splines. It's not doin' nothin' like that.

Ya I saw it wasn't bent against the nut and did think it looked off centre.

I'm also thinking that eventually, in the quest for an easier clutch pull, that you may be changing out at least the male portion of that worm assembly. That's the early short arm style which makes for a harder lever pull.

Good suggestion, thanks. I'll start watching for one. Not many on eBay right now, and the NOS ones are crazy prices. Could buy a parts engine for less.
Are the Mikes/XSDirect units worth considering in your opinion?
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QUOTE="5twins, post: 554968, member: 156"]Worm gear lock nuts always seem to be stuck. I use a socket fitted to a drywall screw gun. It's minor impacting power has always been enough so far to break them free. Then the screw and nut get a liberal coating of anti-seize.[/QUOTE]

That's a good idea 5twins. If the heat hadn't worked, was going to go to impacts.

Being 45 years old with that many miles, pretty much everything will be done on this one.
I see the speedo is in MPH. Would a 73 in fact be MPH and the odometer in miles versus kilometers?
Although the identification charts don't list VIN's for the CDN models it would appear that it is a CDN bike. 217625.

Thanks for the tips.
 
Good suggestion, thanks. I'll start watching for one. Not many on eBay right now, and the NOS ones are crazy prices. Could buy a parts engine for less.
Are the Mikes/XSDirect units worth considering in your opinion?
Broaden your Ebay search to include the XS400. I picked up the whole assembly for like 10-15 bucks. From what I've read in this forum, they fit and actually work better 'cause the arm is bent into it instead of away from the worm. Haven't installed it yet, so maybe someone else can confirm?
 
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Boy, someone needs to grab that $10 one up if only for the spare female nylon part. This is a pretty simple swap but does take some minor modding. The 400 worm gear is "clocked" slightly different than the 650 ones. Here's a comparison pic and as you can see, it doesn't angle the cable arm down quite as much when screwed in fully. That puts too much freeplay in the clutch cable .....

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But the "fix" is simple. The nylon part measures just over 22mm thick .....

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Sand the top (metal shell side) down by a couple MM by working it against some 150 paper on a flat surface .....

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That's all it takes to change the angle of the arm enough and take up the excess cable freeplay.
 
Ya snooze ya loose..... :( It was still for sale when I put the link up. Someone lurkin' here....?
 
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