STANDARD issue…. a resurrection begins….

[willis]

I’ve been playing around with some options from the parts stash. That brake light is off a TY250. The factory light is bulky and I want to slim it down, but I also want to be seen when I’m braking. Afraid that TY light might be a little small/dim. I may go with a Lucas style like on my 75. I think it will accomplish both my needs.

 

[Mailman]

I may go with a Lucas style like on my 75.

That’s actually my favorite style!

 

[willis]

I ordered several of these parts from Mike’s and thought I’d share about an incident that occurred. My order from Mike’s was a clutch and sump gasket, both sprockets, front brake pads and a few lock tabs for sprocket and rotor. They packaged it all loose in a large box, so somewhere along the way the clutch gasket was torn in half. I have to believe it was due to the rear sprocket sloshing around in the box. I emailed their customer support along with a picture and they replied within about 2 hours and provided a tracking number for the replacement. Two days later it arrived. Yes they should have initially packed it better, but kudos to their customer support for making it right promptly. Just thought I’d share as I know Mike’s sometimes takes a beating on their reputation.

 

[willis]

I ran into a little problem while mounting my front wheel. The nice clean wheels originally came on my 75, but I swapped those out for a powder coated set and will be using the clean ones on this build. When I went to mount the rotor, I used to bolts that came out of my 77 wheels. Damned if it isn’t my luck that I snapped another bolt off in the hub. I didn’t get so lucky removing this one. God damned cheap ass extractors! I’ll never use them again, I swear on my first born. So tomorrow I’m off to my buddy’s who is a industrial pipe fitter by trade to weld a bolt on to try and extract it. Anyway, I could not figure out what caused this to happen. So today I finally noticed my nice polished wheels do not have holes all the way through the hub like my 77’s. They bottomed out. I assumed the rim and spokes were aftermarket from Mikes, but are some factory hubs different than others?


So while I was at it I disassembled the 77 wheel and started painting them. I’m trying to find the right shade of gold for the rim. Fingers crossed this turns out ok.

 

[Mailman]

I feel your pain brother, just when you’re on a roll, that’s usually when the wheels come off!

 

[5twins]

Yes, early wheels had blind disc mount holes. Even the later ones may have a blind hole or two where the gussets are on the hub.

 

[willis]

A little teaser. It took a couple attempts to find the right shade of gold. Still needs some touch ups and will probably hit it with some clear coat too, but I like it. It’s a close match to the gold on my old 75 tank decals. Also painted the headlight ring too. I’m on the fence with that though. Don’t want to over do it.

 

[Mailman]

A little teaser. It took a couple attempts to find the right shade of gold. Still needs some touch ups and will probably hit it with some clear coat too, but I like it. It’s a close match to the gold on my old 75 tank decals. Also painted the headlight ring too. I’m on the fence with that though. Don’t want to over do it.
View attachment 218505View attachment 218504

I like it! Can’t wait to see them mounted on your bike!

 

[willis]

Not much progress lately. It’s been in the upper 90’s here lately and humid as hell. The AC is intermittent in the house too so I’ve been limiting time in the shop. But today I installed the timing advance. I’ve been waiting on new cam seals to come in. I bought OEM on eBay for a decent deal. I cleaned everything up nice before install. I was a little confused as there were 3 shims on each weight post. One of those each seemed to be a wave washer. I thought that seemed like a lot, but everything felt nice and snug. One of the springs was a little soft, so I tightened up the end bend with some needle nose pliers. Did the trick nicely. I managed to only lose one retaining clip. I wasn’t happy with the loose fit of that one anyway though, so the replacement felt much more secure. Everything is nice and lubed and happy with how it all feels.

Next up is the other side, where I plan to install a Tytronic ignition. It’s more of a digital points but I’m going to give it a shot.

 

[Mailman]

Next up is the other side, where I plan to install a Tytronic ignition. It’s more of a digital points but I’m going to give it a shot.

I’ll be looking forward to seeing your results! Sorry to hear about your A/C, sure is a bad time to lose it!

 

[5twins]

Normally, you find one wave washer "shim" per post, and sometimes you're lucky to find that, lol. Apparently guys lose them when they remove the weights for cleaning.

 

[willis]

Losing them would be easy to do. They are super thin and often stuck together. I actually had one fall out if my hand, but was lucky to locate it after a few minutes of searching the floor.

 

[TX650A Van Islander]

I also found 3 per post when I first took mine apart.

 

[willis]

Small steps, but all headed in the right direction. I sourced an E style cam chain adjuster from DogBunny. A quick clean in the wire wheel and installed in mere minutes.

Also filed down the backs of the screws on the Tytronic timing plate while I waited for my home A/C to be repaired today. This needed done before I install it in the timing chest. But that will come a little later. Progress is progress!

 

[5twins]

Just one little note - the lock nut on your cam chain adjuster is backwards. But you'd figure that out soon enough when you went to install it and the hex end wouldn't fit down into the housing, lol.

 

[willis]

Yep, it’s installed correctly. That was just a picture after I cleaned it up with the wire wheel in the drill press. But this is on a BBK though too, so the housing isn’t used. It just threads directly into the cylinders.

 

[willis]

This evening I started prepping my carbs. I should start off mentioning that some time ago I picked up a really clean set of ‘78-79 carbs from Gary. They are very clean with nice diaphragms. The passed the slide drop test with flying colors. Initial inspection revealed they are jetted pretty stout. They have a 42 pilot and 140 main. After consulting those much smarter than I, I placed an order for some genuine Mikuni jets from Niche Cycle. I ordered stock sizes up through 3 up so I had everything on hand for tuning. So tonight I started with just documenting everything so I have a baseline to start tuning. I decided to start by running one step up on both jets. 30pilot and 137.5main. Needles are in the middle position. One thing I noticed was that the emulsion tubes are not a tight fit. They push in but are easily removed. Will a new O-ring snug those up, or are the pressure fit once the bowls are snugged up? The only thing I know I need to adjust is the float heights. They were visibly different. I will get that squared away tomorrow though. I’m very happy with the way these carbs are looking though. Hope to have them installed this week. Once those are on things will start coming together nicely.

 

[Mailman]

One thing I noticed was that the emulsion tubes are not a tight fit. They push in but are easily removed. Will a new O-ring snug those up, or are the pressure fit once the bowls are snugged up?

Yeah they should be a snug fit, new o rings ought to do it.

 

[5twins]

Yes, the needle jet fit will snug up with new o-rings. I can see from your needle jet pic that the originals are really shot, lol. A 1mm x 4mm sizes fits and works fine.

Not sure what your plans are for intake and exhaust. On my '78 I have UNI pods and the Commando exhaust. I run 30 pilots, 140 mains, and the needles leaned a step. With this carb set you pretty much have to lean the needles with any main jet size increase, even one.

 

[willis]

Intake is stock air boxes and filters. Exhaust is straight 1-5/8” high pipes with no mufflers and exhaust port optimizers.