This is the one for a Special
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What have you done to your XS today?
- Thread starter I am Carbon
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This is the one for a Special
I am new at this online purchase stuff. Or not real regular anyway. I search an item, check the results and then click. Sometimes I get direct to a supplier, sometimes I get Amazon or EBAY. I know, I know... I should be more careful. Cheers to all. Looks like I did order the right P/N.
Thanks for all the help, I found a lot of motion-pro cables at Amazon but none mentioned the xs650. After Marty posted and I searched 05-0013 I found it .$44 aus delivered . Will keep buying local, they last maybe two years and the coating is worn off down to the metal behind the left side cover. Tried routing inside the k&n air filter but it makes it heavier.
Is that $0.44 delivered or is that $44 delivered? My Aus to US translator driver is down for upgrade.
That's $44 delivered. If they were$0.44 delivered i would be buying a dozen.
You could opt for ground shipping... Cheaper that way...That's $44 delivered. If they were$0.44 delivered i would be buying a dozen.
Got the seat to lock.
Wish I could say, fixed the seat lock, but that would go beyond the facts.
With the roads too filthy to go out? Okay, I'm skulking at home but with Spring just around the corner, ever the optimist, pulled the bike out into the low late-Winter sun to have a look at a few things. Get the bike ready, sort of thing.
Apologies for the poor picture, I blame that low sun.
Checked tyre pressures. The front was a few psi low, not bad after sitting around for a few weeks. The rear, had to let quite a bit of air out - the tyre fitter had erred on the side of leaving the pressure high, must have been over 40 psi.
Started the engine, well, kicked it into reluctant life, ran it for a good ten minutes, till the idle was good and settled and the fins were good and warm. One annoyance of late is that I can't get the seat to latch down. That would be an MOT fail, if Miss November was subjected to that annual indignity, but now it's my responsibility to make sure the bike meets official standards.
The seat won't lock, and my guess was the catch on the seat pan not going into the lock to engage with the latch. That low Winter sun came in useful, light angling in just where I needed to see where the catch was headed with the seat nearly shut. Hitting the inwards side of the slot in the lock, so I used pliers to bend the catch slightly outwards. After a few attempts and provided I held the key turned to keep the latch out of the way, success! The seat is locked and that will do for now.
Some will tell you starting the bike and running it for ten minutes in the winter is not good for it. Perhaps, but it was sure good for me.
Wish I could say, fixed the seat lock, but that would go beyond the facts.
With the roads too filthy to go out? Okay, I'm skulking at home but with Spring just around the corner, ever the optimist, pulled the bike out into the low late-Winter sun to have a look at a few things. Get the bike ready, sort of thing.
Apologies for the poor picture, I blame that low sun.
Checked tyre pressures. The front was a few psi low, not bad after sitting around for a few weeks. The rear, had to let quite a bit of air out - the tyre fitter had erred on the side of leaving the pressure high, must have been over 40 psi.
Started the engine, well, kicked it into reluctant life, ran it for a good ten minutes, till the idle was good and settled and the fins were good and warm. One annoyance of late is that I can't get the seat to latch down. That would be an MOT fail, if Miss November was subjected to that annual indignity, but now it's my responsibility to make sure the bike meets official standards.
The seat won't lock, and my guess was the catch on the seat pan not going into the lock to engage with the latch. That low Winter sun came in useful, light angling in just where I needed to see where the catch was headed with the seat nearly shut. Hitting the inwards side of the slot in the lock, so I used pliers to bend the catch slightly outwards. After a few attempts and provided I held the key turned to keep the latch out of the way, success! The seat is locked and that will do for now.
Some will tell you starting the bike and running it for ten minutes in the winter is not good for it. Perhaps, but it was sure good for me.
Are the new bars 'drag bars"? Do you have rearsets?
Squeeze, open, close, release. 100 times. Fluid flowing in hose. Reservoir going down and refilled 4 times. There is no lever firming up.
Normally, I'll squeeze the lever several times, until I feel some pressure building, before opening the bleed nipple. It can be tough sometimes to get a new, and totally dry to start, system to start pressurizing. I initially get it filled by sucking fluid through it with a MityVac vacuum pump, then finish the job the old fashioned way by hand pumping.
Another tip - pull the lever in and let it snap back open several times. Watch the fluid in the reservoir while doing this for air bubbles coming out and floating up to the top (cover off while doing this). This will often free air bubbles stuck up near the top of the system, around where the line connects to the MC.
Another tip - pull the lever in and let it snap back open several times. Watch the fluid in the reservoir while doing this for air bubbles coming out and floating up to the top (cover off while doing this). This will often free air bubbles stuck up near the top of the system, around where the line connects to the MC.
Patience. Had to close it up and tend to dinner. Thanks 5twins.
Just painted the cylinder head & rocker cover prior to re-assembly after valve job & clean-up.
I was having trouble syncing the vm34s, just couldn't get them even until I removed the fuel tank and the top engine mount to re-torque the head when I realised I had crossed over the throttle cable where I routed it under the top engine mount. So now it starts easier and I have the timing light which has the advance readout but what is the optimum setting ?. I know i have read it here before but being a old fart I have forgotten what's recommended but I'm sure it was slightly retarded?. I just ordered two non resistor type ngk plug caps to use with the iridium spark plugs that I have which I was planning on using until I gave up on the points and installed the boyer ignition a while ago. Also ordered three piece stainless steel braided front brake line's because riding home from work in the rain yesterday I finally realised how bad the brakes are.
Yes, many of us run our timing slightly retarded, but not by much, only 2 or 3 degrees. Besides protecting against pre-ignition and pinging, and the possibility of over-advancing if there's wear in the advance unit, I actually think the bike runs better like this. It seems to produce a bit more power in the higher RPMs and at higher speeds.
And truth be told, what we're doing is actually running the early timing spec that the first few 650 models used .....
So, no worries about hurting anything, the bike was actually designed to run with the timing set like this.
And truth be told, what we're doing is actually running the early timing spec that the first few 650 models used .....
So, no worries about hurting anything, the bike was actually designed to run with the timing set like this.
