What have you done to your XS today?

I can see from your pic that the inner hole you have now is perfect, right at the edge of the swept area, so you needn't add a hole there, just on the outside. I'm not sure if enlarging them would make them too close together. Maybe you could "draw" them larger with a Sharpie to see. Or if you are concerned about it, maybe just enlarge every other hole?
Extra outer 4mm holes
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I could always go for 6.5mm holes leaving outer and inner alone
 
It looks like you've got lots of "meat" left at the outside. I think you could make those added holes 5.5mm.
 
Do you think? That's a 4mm hole so I'd guess there's circa 5mm of meat left, I quite like the graduation in size now the middle holes are all 6.5mm.

Thanks for all the help and advice though, it's been reassuring.
 
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Hello all,
I just bought this bike today, so New to the xs650 world & new to this forum.
It's a 1972, appears to be very original. Runs & rides but not great- I'll be spending some time on this forum learning how to get it in shape.
FYI, It starts, idles but doesn't have much power and seems to rev very slow. I don't have a lot of history on it, previous owner cleaned the carbs when he got it (3 years ago) and rode it. I'm not a mechanic, but I can work my way thru basic stuff. I'm assuming that checking valve adjustment and timing are probably best place to start.
As far as plans for it (after getting it running better & fine tuned)- I like the patina and the originality so other than cleaning and polishing not many. This will be my son's 1st bike so reliability and safety are priority.
Electronic ignition seems like a wise upgrade, any other suggestions?
 
Nice find!! And welcome to the madhouse.
I'd suggest you start here...

https://www.xs650.com/threads/guide...checklist-for-the-condition-of-your-find.367/


It's from the Tech menu top of page. Very useful that.... and the search bar top right works pretty well too.
As a suggestion, you might want to start your own thread on bringing her back to life. Makes for a good reference journal and your questions... and more importantly the answers will all be in one place.
 
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Well done, Dusty, that's a really nice bike to own. Once you've gone through the basics and you're happy with how the bike runs, electronic ignition is a wise upgrade unless you enjoy fiddling, or value the rebuildability of a points system.

I would say another upgrade to consider to make the bike safer for modern traffic is the front brake - fit a master cylinder with a smaller piston for better 'feel' at the lever, replace the rubber brake line with braided stainless, new pads and fluid, think about a perforated disc or drill it out yourself. There's templates in the Tech section or look further up this page at what @Dom has done.
 
THE WELSH FLAT TRACKER
A good clean and polish today. Hoping the weather will be good enough for a run out on Sunday:bike:
And it rained all bloody day on Sunday! Will I ever get to ride this thing?
Anyhow came across this great biking shop whilst out in the pickup.
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Great bunch of people, real bike enthusiasts.
Gear for sale; and great grub and coffee / tea!
 
Finished the larger holes and gave the inner carrier a touch of matt black to finish it off, it was all I had to hand other that black Hammerite. Satin black would have been my choice really but still quite pleased with it. Would it be safe to use stainless bolts to mount it back to the wheel as I know in the car world stainless is never used where strength is required, is there any need to use the lock tabs as well or can I just use a spot of threadlock?
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Made up new HT leads and new NGK plug caps, the old lads were barely making contact on the left coil so I wonder if that will be to blame for my popping off beat left cylinder. Had another go at stopping the leak on my left petcock, this time I've used a small amount of semi curing fuel proof gasket sealant on the oval oring...fingers crossed!
 
At that point you should be good for another 40 years:smoke:
I tried springs on mine first, it helped if I babied it. Ordered new friction disc's and learned that the old ones were missing quite a bit of material , if I remember correctly they were all around . 99 and the new were .113 don't quote those numbers because my memory is foggy. But the problem was solved I now have a proper working clutch that works as well as a modern one.
 
Speaking of petcocks, I rebuilt both of mine (XS750) using most of the same rubber parts but I renewed the small o-ring on the shutoff. I left it full of gas overnight and it is not dripping so I am calling it a success. Now to change the oil.
A note on the Viton 0-rings... I used those the last time and one of the ones I took off was brittle. I thought viton was impervious to gasoline/ethanol?
 

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Oooops,
I left mine in the reserve position; it filled the cylinders and leaked into the crank cases.
Is there any way of me knowing, surely if it starts OK there's none in the cylinders....unless it's leaked past the piston rings???
 
Is there any way of me knowing, surely if it starts OK there's none in the cylinders....unless it's leaked past the piston rings???
I'd closely examine crankcase oil for any signs of fuel - if in doubt, change it. I might also pull spark plugs and roll it over some to see if it's wet in there, check airbox (if any) etc
 
Is there any way of me knowing, surely if it starts OK there's none in the cylinders....unless it's leaked past the piston rings???

Bike was on the side stand. Left cylinder got the petrol. It made it to the crank case and leaked out through the old dry Crank seal behind the rotor.
A small pool of oil/fuel formed under the bike overnight. As I was completely refreshing the bike I Drained all the oil replaced the seals and refilled with fresh oil. Better to be on the safe side in my opinion.
 
Surely this happens a lot though, if I check my oil level that would be a fair indicator (I've only recently changed it)
 
Surely this happens a lot though
It should never happen. Properly functioning petcocks should prevent this. In case of petcock failure, properly functioning float valves should prevent fuel flow. Gasoline in the crankcase or airbox usually means the petcock and a float valve have failed.
 
Surely this happens a lot though, if I check my oil level that would be a fair indicator (I've only recently changed it)
In addition to the level, pull the dipstick and examine for thinning and smell. I'm a chicken - if it covered the floor - I'm probably changing it.
 
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