What have you done to your XS today?

Sunday I started cleaning up a engine bottom.
I got 2 cylinder heads and one complete bottom 447 motors minus clutch, jugs, cylinders and carbs. Already torn down. The complete bottom was filthy, like in had never been cleaned and left in the shop for thirty years. Cost $100. One complete head looks real good, carbon is minimal.

Hey guys, how do I evaluate the lower case and crankshaft and all to if it worth using ?
 
Hey guys, how do I evaluate the lower case and crankshaft and all to if it worth using ?
On the cases, I think it's just a matter of looking for cracks anywhere, galled bearing surfaces (unlikely) and damaged mating surface. Typically no issues there on assembled cases, but if sitting open the mating surface esp.

On the crank; rod little end surface, big end play, rod side play, ball bearing smoothness and runnout of the assembly: runnout spec is .0012" on early 447 and .002" on late, but I'd like a lot less.
 

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I inspected thoroughly the original rear wheel spokes and adjusted the chain on our 75b keeper #7.I’m noting;No signs of any added stress to the rear wheel components nor countershaft original gear since adding a sidecar.
 
I inspected thoroughly the original rear wheel spokes and adjusted the chain on our 75b keeper #7.I’m noting;No signs of any added stress to the rear wheel components nor countershaft original gear since
 

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I noticed oil around the top of the engine and thought I might have my first ever rocker cover oil leak.
I removed the points housing cover and there was a bit of oil around so I took out the tri-spark ignition, removed the housing and replaced the camshaft seal with a new 40x25x5mm seal as well as cleaning the shaft with Scotch Brite and a light smear of permatex on the housing gasket but it's still leaking.
More annoying than anything really cause I used permatex when I assembled the top end recently.
 
Refitted the tyres to my polished and re-laced wheels, much easier than removing them I found out. Pumped them up to pressure and was looking back chuffed with myself, then noticed the front had deflated so I must have pinched the inner tube on refitting....I'll be removing that one again then!
 
Refitted the tyres to my polished and re-laced wheels, much easier than removing them I found out. Pumped them up to pressure and was looking back chuffed with myself, then noticed the front had deflated so I must have pinched the inner tube on refitting....I'll be removing that one again then!
Been there done that.
 
H
I noticed oil around the top of the engine and thought I might have my first ever rocker cover oil leak.
I removed the points housing cover and there was a bit of oil around so I took out the tri-spark ignition, removed the housing and replaced the camshaft seal with a new 40x25x5mm seal as well as cleaning the shaft with Scotch Brite and a light smear of permatex on the housing gasket but it's still leaking.
More annoying than anything really cause I used permatex when I assembled the top end recently.
How do you like that tri spark? Been eyeing them for a while.
 
H

How do you like that tri spark? Been eyeing them for a while.
Well worth the money, piece of cake to install, no more gaping points or setting dwell and no advance mechanism to worry about. Wish I knew about it before I bought the Boyer ignition or the green monster coils before that.
Highly recommended the tri-spark, it's set and forget, far more robust than the Boyer and to replace the cam seal I just put a mark on the ignition plate and the points housing, take out the two screws, removed the housing and changed the seal then just line the marks back up after installation.
After all the years fiddling with the points it's a breeze with the tri-spark.
 
I noticed oil around the top of the engine and thought I might have my first ever rocker cover oil leak.
I removed the points housing cover and there was a bit of oil around so I took out the tri-spark ignition, removed the housing and replaced the camshaft seal with a new 40x25x5mm seal as well as cleaning the shaft with Scotch Brite and a light smear of permatex on the housing gasket but it's still leaking.
More annoying than anything really cause I used permatex when I assembled the top end recently.
Couple of discussions on cam seals:
https://www.xs650.com/threads/cam-seal-leaking-still.61851/

https://www.xs650.com/threads/tour-max-oil-seal-kit.63509/#post-778911
 
Aghhh!! Central Wheel Components just called me to apologise but they have sent me the wrong spokes! I called them for advice before they told me what I needed but apparently I should have had double butted spokes as well as them being the wrong length. It never rains but it pours.
 
Aghhh!! Central Wheel Components just called me to apologise but they have sent me the wrong spokes! I called them for advice before they told me what I needed but apparently I should have had double butted spokes as well as them being the wrong length. It never rains but it pours.
On the wheel you laced and posted pics of above? Yes, those were "straight" spokes, but looked good and proper to me......
spoke style.png

:umm:
 
On the wheel you laced and posted pics of above? Yes, those were "straight" spokes, but looked good and proper to me......
View attachment 239234
:umm:
They claim it needs double butted for safety but the originals were only single butted, help me out guys its doing my head in. They accused me of ordering the wrong ones, I rang for advice and the guy said 'I'll know exactly the spokes you need if you give Mr the model and year'

They have accepted they were wrong so are straight swapping them upon return. I'm having a run of bad luck I think.
 
So my originals are single butted, I suppose that would mean they would fill the hole in the hub more snugly as they'd be 2.3mm as opposed to the 2mm straight gauge I was sent.

Damn I'm going to be good at tyre removal/refitting and lacing wheels after this rigmarole.
 
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