I have both the 78/79 grab rail and the taller sissy bar on my top shelf.
message me if interested, @ work driving truck now. Home later today
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
1978 XS650 Special Project
- Thread starter Melnic
- Start date
I have both the 78/79 grab rail and the taller sissy bar on my top shelf.
message me if interested, @ work driving truck now. Home later today
Yes, a handlebar change will totally change the look and feel of the bike. Since you've been researching the topic, you've probably come across posts by me, and you know I like the Euro bar. Here's my Special shortly after I got it up and running, the only big change so far being the Euro bars .....
There really isn't much available as far as different length cables go, so you just reroute original length ones. The big change you make is routing them down the opposite side of the steering neck compared to where they were originally. This helps to absorb the extra length that the lower bars create. You will want to replace your brake line though. It's old and it needs it, believe me. Luckily, there are many low cost options now, and a replacement can be had for $10 to $20. For the lower bars, a 90cm (35.4") length is perfect .....
There really isn't much available as far as different length cables go, so you just reroute original length ones. The big change you make is routing them down the opposite side of the steering neck compared to where they were originally. This helps to absorb the extra length that the lower bars create. You will want to replace your brake line though. It's old and it needs it, believe me. Luckily, there are many low cost options now, and a replacement can be had for $10 to $20. For the lower bars, a 90cm (35.4") length is perfect .....
You can of course may your own high quality cables using stuff from:
https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-and-components/motorcycle-cables/motorcycle-cables-clutch.html
https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-and-components/motorcycle-cables/motorcycle-cables-clutch.html
5Twins, running the cables across to make an X instead of a II was my plan so glad i'm on the right track there.
yes, already replaced all the brake lines front and rear..
I should amend my original statement, Not afraid to order shorter brake lines, I'm good at replacing those and bleeding brakes but would still like to keep the clutch and throttle same.
yes, already replaced all the brake lines front and rear..
I should amend my original statement, Not afraid to order shorter brake lines, I'm good at replacing those and bleeding brakes but would still like to keep the clutch and throttle same.
Someone on this forum clued me into VIrago risers. The move the bars back and up ~1", can be polished up easily and can be had for $15 and up on ebay. Buy the scruffy looking ones, strip the clear (faded)coat and buff them with metal polish.
Last edited:
Kojack
XS650 Enthusiast
A couple of weeks ago I traded a CB350f project I've had around for a few years for a Remington 30-06. I don't hunt but the Remington is a lot easier to move around.
AFAIK, wheels on the 1978 bikes were not marked according to the note above.
boogerblaser
XS650 Member
I blast carb gunk with fine glass beads, and low air pressure , after using carb cleaner. Works great.
boogerblaser
XS650 Member
I would try gas first.
boogerblaser
XS650 Member
Cheap, reliable and readily available. I bought a Fiat reg/rec for my XS650.
I’ve got a rear fender stay/grab rail off an 82 XJ. The model # is different but the part # is the same. If that would work I’ll send it to you for the price of postage.
Hold on that, Have a deal working now with another forum member on grab rail and bars.
I am still looking for a seat but likely to order one that needs to be recovered from ebay today.
Front rim dropped off a cycle gear. Rim is indeed for tube, no stamp on rim and the inside does not have the safety lip so they have to order a tube for it.
I ended up going with the dunlop 404.
This morning I did a clutch play adjustment with the screw/nut under the little cap on the left side cover, then adjusted the cable. The engine on this bike is starting REALLY easy and idling really reliably. Its making my '83 XJ650 I resurrected last year look bad
I have heard it is best to do your final clutch cable adjust after the engine is fully warm. The aluminum cases and the steel clutch pushrod have different expansion coefficients.
Well no, because then it will probably be too tight once it cools down. I always do mine cold and adjust it pretty snug at both the worm and the hand lever. Once the bike is running and warming up, more play will naturally develop. The trick is to get it snug enough so you don't need to do "on the fly" adjustments once the bike is warmed up. It may take several attempts to get it just right.
The automotive regulator and a rectifier from the electronics world are common mods for these bikes, and they work very well. Cheap, very reliable, and a more consistent output than the original mechanical regulator.
The automotive regulator and a rectifier from the electronics world are common mods for these bikes, and they work very well. Cheap, very reliable, and a more consistent output than the original mechanical regulator.
Thanks for clearing that up.
