'71 xs1b conversion to cafe

[theDQG]

Do the forum's Google custom search on "advancer nut".
First 4 threads go into removing the Advance Timing Unit...

Thanks, I reviewed the threads and looks like I skipped a part. Good thing I read about using a punch to loosen the funky wheel knob that holds the governor in, rather than a screwdriver that would have bitten into the wheel.

As I'm removing the components of the motorycle, I'm trying to understand how each component works- the breaker points system and the governor's unit.

Found a good video that seems to explain the breaker points system, and while this is for a car, I assume that the concept remains the same, namely that the chief function of the breaker points is to induce an EMF in the secondary winding of the ignition coil which drives the volts up to the +/- 22,000 volts necessary for creating an arc in the sparkplug?

The governor unit is sort of a mechanical cruise control in that it maintains engine speed via weights on a flywheel in response to engine load, such as going uphill, correct?

My question is, how does this act in accordance with accelerating? If the bike is going uphill and the governor responds to stabilize RPM, and I decide to accelerate, does the governor back off? How does it work in regard to the act of accelerating?

 

[theDQG]

On the forks, try some "naval jelly" to remove the rust along with steel wool and a wire brush. Mind looked about like that and came out decent. ( they look good from ten feet away!)

If the inner forks are easy to replace, and I'm assuming IF's are common in all sizes, I'm going to replace them.

Going to powdercoat outer forks, so should I just have them blasted, sanded and take them to a PC outfit?

 

[lakeview]

Respectfully, no, the "governor" is the mechanical spark advance, it only works sorta like that. Clear your mind of that misconception and read up on "spark advance"
cheers

 

[lakeview]

Inner forks are not all the same even within the same size (34mm or 35mm). Owners manual will tell you the allowable wear limits. Many items on these machines do not need replacing, just cleaning and reassembly.

Not really sure what you mean by "inner forks", do you mean the fork innards in general, or specific items?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Respectfully, no, the "governor" is the mechanical spark advance, it only works sorta like that...

Yes, it serves to advance the spark timing as the engine rpms increase.
A couple of videos:

 

[jussumguy]

My audio didn't work on the bottom video. Is that a built in timing light?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

My audio didn't work on the bottom video.

That's odd. Try it in this attached link.

Is that a built in timing light?

Why, yes it is:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44586

 

[theDQG]

I shouldn't feel so bad, that only went over my head by a mile or so...

Made some good progress today after getting the governor out.

Cam lobes and cam lobe contacts on rocker arms looks to be in good shape!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hard to tell, but pic #1 looks to have damaged rocker arm pads, and one cracked valve adjuster tip.
You'll need to mic the cam lobes...

 

[theDQG]

Next step is the big one, getting off the cylinder head so I can see what kind of shape the pistons are in.

Having some difficulties though- the bearings for the camshaft came off without any trouble except for the one on the far end in this photo, it just will not come off- any tricks to doing this without damaging anything?



Also I know that the cam chain has to be broken at some point (I have to replace it anyway) because of the cam guide, but does it have to be broken at this point?

I don't have a chain breaker kit and am planning to grab one over the weekend, but wanted to know if I could still remove the cylinders without having to break the chain- I'm eager to get a look at the pistons. That is, if the cylinder heads will come loose.

 

[theDQG]

Hard to tell, but pic #1 looks to have damaged rocker arm pads, and one cracked valve adjuster tip.
You'll need to mic the cam lobes...

Tell me what you want a close-up of and I can take more pics.

As far as mic'ing, I suppose any good quality calipers will do? Like this one?

Will take me only about 10 years to save up that much.

 

[theDQG]

More pics of the pads:

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Back in my shop days, we would closely and critically inspect every single area having metal-to-metal contact. That'd probably be over 100 close-ups here.

But for now, good crisp/clear close-ups of each rocker's follower pad, valve adjuster tips, valve tips, cam lobes. Cleaned non-oily parts, with appropriate lighting to accentuate any surface imperfections.

That Browne & Sharpe page crashes my tablet. There's budget 3-piece 1", 2", 3" micrometer sets, with standards, out there, that work fine if you clean and calibrate them first.

No wonder why engine rebuilders get good money...

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

More pics of the pads:

View attachment 62186View attachment 62187View attachment 62188

Not close enuff...

 

[jussumguy]

Can't you remove the cam sprocket from the cam and pull the cam out the side? Or back off the chain adjuster and get the cam out that way?

 

[angus67]

Yes he can, but wants to replace the chain. Imo, pad followers dont look that bad. A little pitted, but not discolored.

 

[theDQG]

Already took out the cam chain adjuster. Cam chain is still somewhat tight so that's a little worrisome. I figure if I could just get that last bearing off, I could try to jimmy the cam chain off, otherwise I'll go get a chain breaker kit.

I doused the bearing with a good shot of PB so will try again later today, to work it off.

 

[jussumguy]

Is the motor still locked up or will it turn one way or the other. Are the valves closing?

 

[theDQG]

Still locked up tight. Can't tell re: valves. Will try again later this afternoon.

 

[pete xs]

Hi there
Love to buy the chain guard if you are selling