I hate the peanuts........ Got some repro mufflers and gray cables from them earlier this week - no peanuts
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Adopting another problem child
- Thread starter Wingedwheel
- Start date
Of course the new spring needed squeezing but it was considerably beefier and a squeeze in the vise gave me about 6-7 lbs on the fishing scale. I installed the side cover and I need to do the tab next. Once that’s done and the spring is installed it’s finals time.
Pointier and just a lot more tooth. The old one is just worn out, spring also. Changing it was a total no brainer. Hardest part was holding the clutch basket to torque the nut. A plate, 4 vise grip pliers and a big torque wrench when I popped that 96ftlb setting I was borderline struggling to keep the engine from turning. I’ve got no chain yet to help keep things from turning lol
Gentleman we’ve come a long way……
Yes, I was gonna say I don't think the clutch hub nut gets tightened that much, lol. That 94 ft/lbs is for the front sprocket nut. I know the '77 torque specs Jim posted don't show it that tight but check some specs from the early models, you'll find it. I used to use that 86 pound spec on mine but the sprocket always showed oil streaks on it, like it was weeping slightly from the shaft .....
I've gone up to 94 pounds now and guess what, no more oil streaks, lol
I've gone up to 94 pounds now and guess what, no more oil streaks, lol
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Right out of my manual.
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What manual is that?
https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/04/20/xs650-xs650b-manual/
The one listed in the tech section that I’ve been using for a while.
The one listed in the tech section that I’ve been using for a while.
My '80 manual calls for 46ft-lbs
Well at least that’s ONE fastener I don’t have to worry about coming loose.
IOD. That’s stands for issue of the day. I’m not getting spark to the plugs. Have 12.6v on the battery. 12v at the points, 12v from the points to the coils. Coils OHM out at 4.2 at secondary. 8.2K at the primary. 12.4v on the R/W wire to coils. Only thing I didn’t check was the condensers but the book tells how to do the check using an Analog meter. How do you guys do it with a digital?
The coil readings are backward - likely a typo. Anyway, I'd first test and ensure the points wire is grounded with points closed and no continuity to ground with points open. To test condenser (not per book) you can isolate both points (piece of card stock),turn key on, set meter on DC volts, unhook condenser, and there should be a positive volt reading - red probe to wire, black to condenser case - that will disappear rapidly.
I watched a video that explained it that way but wasn’t sure about a dual lead. Yes Typo on the readings and after the last check my starter wasn’t working. I’ll have to troubleshoot that in the morning. I’m done for the day.
Yes, you are correct. I’m feeling really burned out right now but so darn close……..
So the replacement is a single condenser/dual lead? Maybe that’s what I’m thinking.
