Casing Stud Adhesive

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

What was it that RetiredGentleman used to say?
Snake oil, or something like that?

There were a lot of practices, nonsense, rumors, secrets, streetspeak, flash-in-the-pan, non-profitable, obsolete, short-lived, ...etc, from way back when. Some stuck, some died.

If you damaged some unobtainium cylinder studs, the aftermarket could rescue.

 

[Jim]

Factory's didn't give a shi!t about the independents.

They cared enough about reliability. Them racing catalogs helped fund the racing dept. Grenading motors got you a bad reputation. Bad reputations got you minus signs in the bank account....

The factory's would sell parts to independents to make them competitive but unless they were true talents not winners. Race teams hold their cards close to their vest.

... and wearin' a cylinder head in your face shield tended to make you not competitive. I used to be heavy into keeping up with the racing scene back in the seventies... XS's having a history of grenading just doesn't ring a bell.

Jim wasn't too long ago you told me you went with what your knowledge and experience told you over what a Yamaha manual said.

?

When's the last time we heard of a broken stud on XS650? crickets.......

Zackly!

 

[GLJ]

@Jim
Circlip ring a bell?

 

[gggGary]

 

[GLJ]

Troublemaker.
Peckers always peck at every chance they get.

 

[Jim]

View attachment 187438
@Jim
Circlip ring a bell?

I remember saying that, and it's true enough, just not sure how it relates to the current discussion?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

With the race studs, you could torque down a bit tighter.
High-compression, sometimes over 12.5:1, especially with warped heads/cylinders, could help keep headgaskets from blowing out. Just more oldschool stuff...

 

[GLJ]

I remember saying that, and it's true enough, just not sure how it relates to the current discussion?

The factory manual says to do something and you said not necessary because you have other experiences. You take a bulletin as gospel without knowing how many people actually did it and what the results were.
Like I said try it. I just have reservations.

 

[GLJ]

I just have reservations.

I will add from a stud not fully seated.

 

[Jim]

With the race studs, you could torque down a bit tighter.
High-compression, sometimes over 12.5:1, especially with warped heads/cylinders, could help keep headgaskets from blowing out. Just more oldschool stuff...

So.... let's run a yield strength test. Keep torquing to failure. Which do you think is gonna "yield" first.... the stud... or the aluminum threads in the case?

 

[Jim]

The factory manual says to do something and you said not necessary because you have other experiences. You take a bulletin as gospel without knowing how many people actually did it and what the results were.

A bit of logical fallacy there. If the bulletin said to add the bigger studs and I argued against it, you'd have a point. I can't really take what the bulletin doesn't say as gospel, can I ?

 

[kopcicle]

I have a local that will roll metric threads to this day. Previously they were ground.
Way back when there were at least two sources for hex broached studs from either Shell or Mert.
The big advantage to studs NOT Yamaha wasn't the broach or even the 10mm, or the metallurgy .
The YUUUUUGE difference was the finer thread pitch on top for more accurate clamping force.
I never once used anything but an annealed copper head gasket;

As to the factory support? From the manufacturer zip, nada, none. From the teams it was nearly an open book right down to sharing the jets themselves. The challenge was "here's the parts and the recipe come run with us!"
it really was about improving the breed.

Those that hid behind reputation, brand, tarps, misinformation, ego, and failing to share their last tuna fish sandwich* , didn't last long.

I once sat out a "B" main so a factory support team could use my parts so I had the gas and food to make the next stop on the circus. Fair dinkum because those parts had been loaned to me from another support team.

If you don't understand the above I really can't explain it to you.



*Maggie, so long and thanks for all the tuna fish.

 

[kopcicle]

Now if you want to talk camshaft profiles ....

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

So.... let's run a yield strength test. Keep torquing to failure. Which do you think is gonna "yield" first.... the stud... or the aluminum threads in the case?

Jim, at my age, my elbows...

 

[Jim]

Like I said try it. I just have reservations.
I will add from a stud not fully seated.

I will.
But I'll fully seat 'em. Seems silly not to...

 

[Bewarethemoon]

Is there any information about the fatter studs anywhere???

 

[gggGary]

Is there any information about the fatter studs anywhere???

y'no I bought and got the speed tuning manual, went looking last night for that exact reason. Think i can find the danged thing?

 

[Bewarethemoon]

y'no I bought and got the speed tuning manual, went looking last night for that exact reason. Think i can find the danged thing?

Are we talking Craig Weekes’ manual as I have that?

I think if you follow the link TwoMany posted there’s brief mention? From what I understood the entire stud is 10mm, not turned down after the threads... not confident I have that right though but is seems unlikely the studs are larger than 10mm no?

 

[gggGary]

There I fixed it.

 

[Bewarethemoon]

There I fixed it.
View attachment 187474

So the only difference is 10mm across their entire length?

Care to a hazard a guess as to what the original or ‘race’ studs were made from? Mild Steel?

Daniel.