Casing Stud Adhesive

Lets say it; "street motors" don't need to worry about race studs. If you aren't up at compression levels that need 100 octane race gas, any stud issues are more about assembly than material. Gary with a higher miles 750 that showed 190 PSI per side on a gauge that puts a healthy stock motor at 155. (but it may have HD studs) so?? This motor is now showing about 170/180 after I've ridden it a lot of miles, one side has some cylinder scuffing. :shrug:
If you want to delve into fastener specifications here's a starting point. https://www.indfast.org/info/free-technical-info.asp
 
Last edited:
gggGary said:
Lets say it; "street motors" don't need to worry about race studs. If you aren't up at compression levels that need 100 octane race gas, any stud issues are more about assembly than material.
Click to expand...
I fully agree with that. I suspect there's motors out there with BBK's, shell cams....etc. without race studs. And prolly more than a few where guys, like me, weren't even aware larger studs are available for our motors. This kinda evolved from is it a good idea to have removable studs, to do they have to be race studs. My opinion is the removable studs are acceptable. A bit over the top for a street motor... but why not.... In my mind, the question of removable studs and race studs are two different issues. If removable studs are not a good idea, that would apply to both types.... no? Other than being stiffer, the race studs would face the same issues with being removable. So, if it's acceptable for one type (race), it should be for both.
If there's a compelling reason why that's wrong, I'm not seeing it? :umm:
 
@Jim I'm thinking you are allowed to build your motor however you would like. Far be it from me to try to force my beliefs on others. I merely suggest and show examples if I got em. Reciprocity appreciated. Heck I'm the guy that points out I've stopped oil leaks in car motors by loosening and retightening one use head bolts. :yikes:
Have you ordered your $1,800 rotary broach yet?
 
gggGary said:
Reciprocity appreciated.
Click to expand...
Apologies to anyone who thought I was trying to force my beliefs on others. I wasn't. I have an opinion and I was arguing that point of view.... as were others. Nothing I've read here has changed my opinion of using removable studs. That doesn't mean it can't be changed.
So again, apologies to anyone I've offended. I honestly don't see where I tried to "force" my beliefs... but fair enough. I'll be on my way. :)
 
gggGary said:
Have you ordered your $1,800 rotary broach yet?
Click to expand...
No, that's a nice "toy." but that money will buys lots of other more useful toys. I'll just have to hope Santa come through. :sneaky:
 
Jim said:
I fully agree with that. I suspect there's motors out there with BBK's, shell cams....etc. without race studs. And prolly more than a few where guys, like me, weren't even aware larger studs are available for our motors. This kinda evolved from is it a good idea to have removable studs, to do they have to be race studs. My opinion is the removable studs are acceptable. A bit over the top for a street motor... but why not.... In my mind, the question of removable studs and race studs are two different issues. If removable studs are not a good idea, that would apply to both types.... no? Other than being stiffer, the race studs would face the same issues with being removable. So, if it's acceptable for one type (race), it should be for both.
If there's a compelling reason why that's wrong, I'm not seeing it? :umm:
Click to expand...

I’m sold! Going to have my machinist make some hex broached studs.

Want to swap a set for one of your paint jobs on my XS750 tank @Jim
 
Bewarethemoon said:
Interesting reading GLJ!

Particularly when he states if using an adhesive compound the stud nuts need to be torqued to spec’ before the compound sets. How critical do you think this to be?

Daniel.
Click to expand...
I have idea how critical it would be.
Bewarethemoon said:
I’m sold! Going to have my machinist make some hex broached studs.

Want to swap a set for one of your paint jobs on my XS750 tank @Jim
Click to expand...
If you lock in the studs with with Locite or something similar it may be defeating the purpose of broaching the studs.
 
GLJ said:
I have idea how critical it would be.

If you lock in the studs with with Locite or something similar it may be defeating the purpose of broaching the studs.
Click to expand...

I think I’ll most likely only use locking compound on the non-broached crank case studs
 
Wow, guess I scratched a scab here.

Thick race studs are still used even on the wimpy VW engines.
They're made from a higher grade steel, higher tensile strength.

Bolt torque specs are for achieving certain clamping tensions, and to keep the fasteners within their elastic range.
Torque_Curve.jpg

Long studs going thru aluminium have to endure whatever elongation occurs with expanding aluminum, which can put their tension closer to the "yield" curve. Having to retorque thinner lower grade steel XS650 cylinder studs is commonplace, should be a sign. Torquing them tighter than factory spec pushes them closer to the yield curve. Race studs give more margin, especially for hotter engines, just more oldschool stuff.

For more, Google "bolt torque to tension chart"...
 

Similar threads

Nicko
Not a barrel of laughs
Replies
10
Views
651
JJames
JJames
Bewarethemoon
Removal of Crank Case Studs
Replies
5
Views
585
mike in idaho
mike in idaho
G
New 83 Heritage Special Build
Replies
5
Views
160
halfmile
halfmile
Signal
New Sidecar Motor
Replies
14
Views
2K
Signal
Signal
Jake_The_Snake
1980 xs650 sII Engine Bench Test Wiring Harness
Replies
0
Views
226
Jake_The_Snake
Jake_The_Snake
Back
Top