Casing Stud Adhesive

In your position I would not bother. 1 it is a nice to have but not essential and if you are paying someone to do it, you could put the money towards some other area of the bike. 2 Assuming you are building a road bike you don't need to fix the bike quickly to get it on the track for the next race.
Thats my take on it.
 
Just a reference
As OP stated to remove studs you need to play a torch on the base to soften the "locktite".
The harder to find dual end plate stud remover is needed.
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the cheaper single plate type is going to bend studs.

upload_2021-3-19_5-41-51.png

I haven't tried this type
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Just a reference
As OP stated to remove studs you need to play a torch on the base to soften the "locktite".
The harder to find dual end plate stud remover is needed.
View attachment 187372
the cheaper single plate type is going to bend studs.

View attachment 187369
I haven't tried this type
View attachment 187371

I used two flange nuts backed against each other, with a ring spanner fed onto the stud first for the bottom nut, this worked well.

One hand in the middle of the stud wrapped in a cloth to protect against heat, the other on the spanner. With the casing braces against my stomach this allowed me to crack them loose without flexing the stud too much.

Be interested to hear reports of how successful the tools like you posted are.

Daniel.
 
Didn't realize how strong of locktite Yamaha had used, first removal attempt wasn't pretty, once heat was applied with the dual plate extractor a bunch of extensions so there was room to swing a ratchet above the other studs and it went well.
 
Didn't realize how strong of locktite Yamaha had used, first removal attempt wasn't pretty, once heat was applied with the dual plate extractor a bunch of extensions so there was room to swing a ratchet above the other studs and it went well.

Any damage to the threads’s Gary? What diameter of studs can these work with?

Daniel.
 
Like Signal said above, this was mostly done for racing applications. I'm thinking of doing it because I like to tinker.... that and just because I can. :sneaky:


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Further to post # 28.

It usually a long time from start to finish on my projects so I take notes etc. Here is mine on the studs. I hope this helps and does not add problems.

Studs look to have a long thread and a short thread end. All studs have the long thread is into the case.

The 8 cylinder studs are 252mm high

Stud number (as cast on cases), Height (installed), Length( End to end)



1 165 187

2 76 97

3 165 187

4 (dowel) 76 103

5 165 187

6 56 76

7 95 106

8 56 76

9 34 54

10 77 97

11 77 97

12 48 66

13 91 103

14 78 97
 
Last edited:
Further to post # 28.

It usually a long time from start to finish on my projects so I take notes etc. Here is mine on the studs. I hope this helps and does not add problems.

Studs look to have a long thread and a short thread end. All studs have the long thread is into the case.

The 8 cylinder studs are 252mm high

Stud number, Height, Length

1 165 187

2 76 97

3 165 187

4 (dowel) 76 103

5 165 187

6 56 76

7 95 106

8 56 76

9 34 54

10 77 97

11 77 97

12 48 66

13 91 103

14 78 97

Are your measurements, stud protruding from case and then total stud length Signal?

That’s a very useful list whatever the case, I’ll add that to my materials.

Daniel.
 
Last edited:
Further to post # 28.

It usually a long time from start to finish on my projects so I take notes etc. Here is mine on the studs. I hope this helps and does not add problems.

Studs look to have a long thread and a short thread end. All studs have the long thread is into the case.

The 8 cylinder studs are 252mm high

Stud number, Height, Length

1 165 187

2 76 97

3 165 187

4 (dowel) 76 103

5 165 187

6 56 76

7 95 106

8 56 76

9 34 54

10 77 97

11 77 97

12 48 66

13 91 103

14 78 97
Is there a drawing Signal, that shows what stud goes with what reference #?
 
My :twocents: on the slotting the top of the studs is, how much torque are you going to be able to actually get on the studs. Those thing twist a lot when tightening or loosening the head nuts. I know from experience what happens if one is a little loose. Was on a 2 stroke but I think the result would be the same.
 
My :twocents: on the slotting the top of the studs is, how much torque are you going to be able to actually get on the studs. Those thing twist a lot when tightening or loosening the head nuts. I know from experience what happens if one is a little loose. Was on a 2 stroke but I think the result would be the same.
Well, apparently it wasn't a problem on the racing engines. Screw the studs down 'till they bottom and they should behave the same as they did before removing 'em.
 
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