This is for 2M’s mental roladex, on the XS2 the flasher unit bolts to the rear fender...
Thanx, Bob.
Downloaded for my files.
Now I'm wondering how the rear fender gets its ground...
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This is for 2M’s mental roladex, on the XS2 the flasher unit bolts to the rear fender...
Front wheel and fender.
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Back working on '70s bikes, we usually had to install the front fender first, before installing the front wheel. The fender installation bolts wouldn't clear the wheel's rim.
TwoMany, I was thinking that also but then saw this picture and it looks like it might not be a problem, could be close!View attachment 133309
You can fit the fender after the wheel on the later forks but it is kind of fiddly. I always loosely mount it before the wheel goes on. Much easier to access the mounting bolts that way. I leave it loose until after the axle is tight so it won't possibly cause some binding. Something else you're supposed to do before tightening the axle clamp on the left fork leg is to pump the forks several times. That lets the left fork leg move in or out slightly on the axle if need be and align itself.
That makes interesting reading. It would explain the symptom I had. Bulletin dated 72 so Yamaha knew about it before I bought mine Aug 73, although mine was probably made in 72.
A little update.......
So naturally the first thing I did today was to try and fit the front fender on........well the short story here is it can be mounted with the wheel in place. PHEW!
But I made some interesting discoveries. When I first put the front wheel back in, I was concerned that the tire didn’t seem centered between the forks. I worried that I had, perhaps, done something wrong. There was nothing wrong, the wheel is indeed offset in the space. It’s that oddball brake disc , it takes up a lot of real estate down there.
Hi Mailman. You keep bringing back memories for me. I recall my XS in 73 had high and wide bars, I thought I would narrow them down a bit 2inch each side ought to do it. Grabbing a hacksaw I started cutting, only take a minute, I thought. Never figured Yamaha would make the bars solid at the ends. End result, aching saw arm, narrower bars but more tingle. I later swapped them for Vincent straights, more racy.
Soon be pressing that start button, I’m glued to the story. Thanks.
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The fender even comes with offset spacers right from the factory.
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There was just enough room to work the fender bolts in and tighten them up.
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In fact the fender gets moved over so close to the left fork leg that the fender mount has an oval shaped hole in it , that is functional, it creates clearance for the fork leg.
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I then installed the fender stays, I absolutely love the look of the early fenders, they just look retro and beefy and cool.
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After that I worked on getting my chrome , rear fender loop mounted. And also my chain guard.
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You know , I took a ton of reference photos and I have created albums of photos in my IPad, categories such as chassis, electrical, instruments and such. I have hundreds. I mention this because I wish I would’ve taken even more. There is so much detail on these bikes, little things like special washers, grommets and special hardware, that I sometimes find myself scratching my head and trying to remember exactly how something went. Also I had bags and bags of cleaned bolts , washers, and nuts and I did my best to label everything clearly and still...I find myself searching for tidbits.
On another note: Look what showed up today! My new repro original handlebars. They are the correct original shape and size and are weighted just like factory bars.
This photo shows what was on my bike when I bought it ( new bars in front ) the old bars are wrapped in plastic. They had a higher rise and the grips were angled down. They were comfortable but the caused the master cylinder to be steeply angled.
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That’s all for now.
Later,
Bob
Did you get the bars from NCS?On another note: Look what showed up today! My new repro original handlebars. They are the correct original shape and size and are weighted just like factory bars.