I looked into "antique" plates here in Illinois. Not worth it. There are a couple offered. For bikes not enough savings to justify the restrictions.
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New to me - ‘95 Honda Shadow VLX600
- Thread starter bosco659
- Start date
I have an XS650 side panel with a crack in it. What is my best option for putting a permanent repair on it without getting too spendy? This is a serviceable spare. The panel is the 1980-84 variety.
That's certainly a good thing to look into. I came from Georgia, where an "Antique" tag amounts to about $50 for the privilege of having it, to Mississippi where an "Antique" has a one time small fee, means no annual tax, no renewal and no restrictions. I take full advantage of the spirit of this Mississippi law.
If the panel is fairly thick, plastic welding could work on the back to hold it together structurally, but you’ll have to deal with the crack on the show side. You’d also need to get the tool (cheap on Amazon). The bonding adhesive I use may work too but success will depend on the type of plastic it’s made of - as mentioned in my post it’s expensive so count that out. JB weld makes a plastic friendly epoxy that may work too. I think that may be the least costly repair. No matter what you use, the repair will be on the back and you still need to pretty up the face. If the JB weld sticks (after a thorough prep job), I’d back up the repair area with wire mesh or a thin piece of sheet metal.
I have used 2 component Quick Epoxy I have never done any preparation to speak off
I depends where the crack is but overall I am pleased with the results .On other fairings fasteners It can crack again
I just do it over again after a few years
I build up glue a little extra at the back side not visible side
Dont really clean so much before either If it is a crack i sometimes use a needle pushing in glue and bending it a little so the crack opens.
I think if one makes a better preparation use some backing material fiberglass sheet metal metal mesh or so
Cleaning and applying several steps
It will last
https://www.biltema.se/en-se/construction/adhesives/epoxy-glue/fast-epoxy-2-x-21-g-2000050118
The crack is on the bottom where no one will ever see it. I have no clue what the side cover material is. For all I know, it could be some kind of fiberglass. I'll use two part epoxy.
At the bottom there is the pin going into the rubber grommet .. One cover I had the pin was almost off .. That did not last ..there more reinforcement ( Steel Net or fiberglass or so ) is needed .I drilled a small hole and used wire to hold it in place
I suppose the hole could be filled with some epoxy or other.
Come to think of it I have a metal clamp now also the grommet is the problem not the cover. One of those quick fixes that remains there .. on the bike.
I have lost 2 over the years
I’d clean it with alcohol, then scuff it up with some sandpaper, then try the epoxy. I’d still reinforce it with some metal.
Had the bike out for a first ride today. Still a bit cool so I only went 15 km. Ran ok, more or less what I expected. A couple of adjustments to make and I think it’s good to ride for the season.
Another spin today and a couple of questions have arisen.
- popping out of mufflers on decel - lean and or exhaust leak??
- while riding, when I look at the upper triple tree clamp, it looks like it’s pointing a couple of degrees to the right. It’s going to bother me so I’m going to look for a fix. Can it be as simple as loosening the upper and lower clamp bolts and giving the front wheel a kick in the right direction?
- popping out of mufflers on decel - lean and or exhaust leak??
- while riding, when I look at the upper triple tree clamp, it looks like it’s pointing a couple of degrees to the right. It’s going to bother me so I’m going to look for a fix. Can it be as simple as loosening the upper and lower clamp bolts and giving the front wheel a kick in the right direction?
Yes
Thx. I was just thinking I could also put the front wheel into a wheel chock and twist the clamp into the correct orientation while sitting on the bike and pulling / pushing on the bars. I just need to figure out a simple way of keeping the fork tubes from slipping up into the tree clamps while loosened off. A number of redneck ways come to mind but I don’t want to scratch the tubes or clamps.
If I can find a short piece of abs or pvc pipe or fitting, I can cut out a couple of small donuts, split them and push them onto the fork tubes. Then push them up snuggly under the upper clamp and secure them in place with a couple of good hose clamps. That will probably do?
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This happens with my DR650 after a Wipeout in the bush. The front end is easier to fix than I am!
I just leave the bottom triple clamps tight and loosen the top only. Twist back into form and tighten back up again. Tubes won't slip that way and probably will work ok
Oh ok, that would be easy.
The clutch lever showed evidence of the bars being bumped so maybe the bike had a little tumble that knocked the steering a bit. No other rash so it couldn’t have been that severe. Thx.
Maybe I am being simple... Just one upper clamp needs to be loosened.
I tried that yesterday and couldn’t move it. Will attempt today again.
Then try 2 , or an opposite lower clamp. ??? Best of luck. ...but, thinking, XS650 has a lot of "margin" in the rubber bushings that mount the risers. Does the Honda have anything that could mis align the bars?
I loosened the two top clamps and twisted it as much as I could while trying to balance the bike. I think it’s better now (good enough).
Assuming a tube is not bent from an im0act, ride it (carefully) and evaluate fork action under braking and general riding. If you are satisfied, Good. Cheers
