Rewound Alternator Rotor gouges, trouble shooting charging system.

[75XSFLORIDA]

Nope. Day one it was ohming out just fine.


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No you haven't. Go back to page 13. I said exactly the same thing Jan just said.... only he said it better.
13 fuckin' pages of trying to get you actually read and follow some basic troubleshooting... and all you wanted to do the whole time was be contrary, snarky to those trying to help... and just generally shooting yourself in the foot.

Again, had you stated on day one the rotor was open, we could have done much better here. You didn't. As the saying goes... garbage in/garbage out.



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Gary, JP and 650skull have been the only ones who have been very helpful and not smart asses throughout this whole thing. Much appreciated to those three. There may have been one or two others.… you were one initially but disappeared and its fine…i lost no sleep cause of it

 

[Jim]

i lost no sleep cause of it

Me neither...

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Me neither...

There ya go man, congrats on a job well done!

 

[Paul Sutton]

I am getting a bit lost?? If the Brown wire is 0.26V less that the battery terminal voltage then I'd be inclined to reset the mechanical regulator to about 14.3ish volts. Then you know that in future should you get a small voltage drop developing somewhere it will not be an issue. So get that sorted and start riding and monitor the voltage regularly. I have a voltmeter fitted permanently to my bike and it is like having a comfy blanket. Tells me all I need to know:

• 14.6V - My headlight is off or blown.
• 14.2 - 14.3V - All is well.
• Flickering from 12 - 14.2V: Indicators are still on.
• <14V: Switch headlight off and head for home.

For the future you may want to consider putting in a new Brown wire and replacing your mechanical regulator. But there's nothing wrong with a well maintained mechanical regulator. I think there is a good article somewhere that tells you how this is done.

Good luck and hope for fine riding weather.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

I am getting a bit lost?? If the Brown wire is 0.26V less that the battery terminal voltage then I'd be inclined to reset the mechanical regulator to about 14.3ish volts. Then you know that in future should you get a small voltage drop developing somewhere it will not be an issue. So get that sorted and start riding and monitor the voltage regularly. I have a voltmeter fitted permanently to my bike and it is like having a comfy blanket. Tells me all I need to know:

• 14.6V - My headlight is off or blown.
• 14.2 - 14.3V - All is well.
• Flickering from 12 - 14.2V: Indicators are still on.
• <14V: Switch headlight off and head for home.

For the future you may want to consider putting in a new Brown wire and replacing your mechanical regulator. But there's nothing wrong with a well maintained mechanical regulator. I think there is a good article somewhere that tells you how this is done.

Good luck and hope for fine riding weather.

Thanks Paul youve been a great help as well.
Everything is good to go now. The .26 drop at the brown wire will be even less when i clean the switch which is .16 of that .26….so as you see its a relatively small drop either way. Tested again today and those numbers are still accurate. Reg is set to about 14.5ish max so im fine there….a meter is on the bike and its wired to battery…Also in regards to riding weather, its everyday here!

 

[Paul Sutton]

Success, well done...

 

[jpdevol]

Just to Recap:
75XSFL basically began posting in Jim's Ad BLAMING Jim for a charging system problem: apparently the rotor came from Jim 2yrs and 4000K miles ago. As it was that posting was inappropriate in a Want Ad, all those posts had to be moved to this thread.......

Hello Jim. I got this rewind from you 1/2021 and have 4500 miles on it. Are these goudges affecting anything?? They were they day one BUT have gotten worse.

Its the rotor itself. Please click on pic to expnad it….Look at the red arrows pointing to goudges

Not sure. Look at this pic. You probably remember me, when i first bought this from you I questioned these goudges but you said the rotor will outlast the bike. It may still be fine but they look worse now and worn alot more.

I think you made this post after i had the questions abiut the dings in the rings. Im guessing even though they look worse now that rotor is still fine

Havent checked ohms on slip rings yet. Yea maybe from washin bike water sits in there and corrodes over time. The thing is when I rev the bike till about 3000 RPMs or even more, the battery voltage never goes higher than 12.4. To me that seems like a bad rectifier. If the rectifier was good it would be charging the battery upon revving the bike right??

After some troubleshooting though the rotor tested good and the bike charged @ 13.8VDC @3000rpm.

Rotor rings are 5.4-5.5
Battery is 12.7v resting after 24hrs
You say +12 on outter ring brush…do you mean it needs to be at least 12mm??

Rotor is 5.4-5.5 ring to ring…ring to case i get “OL”…guessing that infinity and a good thing. Lol. Not an electrical guy by any means…

The discussion then moved to Jim & 5twins TECH thread and consumed 16 pages or so there: also polluting a "how to" thread with individual troubleshooting. So all those posts also got moved to this thread. During that discussion and replacing the regulator/rectifier, the rotor then tested bad with an open circuit "OL".

gggGary then shipped 75XSSFL a known good rotor and stator FOR FREE and, after some connection cleaning.....well here we are and YA'LL are up to speed (without reading 28 pages yer welcome)

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Just to Recap:
75XSFL basically began posting in Jim's Ad BLAMING Jim for a charging system problem: apparently the rotor came from Jim 2yrs and 4000K miles ago. As it was that posting was inappropriate in a Want Ad, all those posts had to be moved to this thread.......

Man, you must have a lot of time on your hands to put that post together! Jesus.








After some troubleshooting though the rotor tested good and the bike charged @ 13.8VDC @3000rpm.



The discussion then moved to Jim & 5twins TECH thread and consumed 16 pages or so there: also polluting a "how to" thread with individual troubleshooting. So all those posts also got moved to this thread. During that discussion and replacing the regulator/rectifier, the rotor then tested bad with an open circuit "OL".

gggGary then shipped 75XSSFL a known good rotor and stator FOR FREE and, after some connection cleaning.....well here we are and YA'LL are up to speed (without reading 28 pages yer welcome)

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

And thru it all in Gary did not have one smart fucking comment to say the entire time. Nothing but helpful! This man deserves an applause!

 

[Jim]

Just to Recap:
75XSFL basically began posting in Jim's Ad BLAMING Jim for a charging system problem: apparently the rotor came from Jim 2yrs and 4000K miles ago. As it was that posting was inappropriate in a Want Ad, all those posts had to be moved to this thread.......










After some troubleshooting though the rotor tested good and the bike charged @ 13.8VDC @3000rpm.



The discussion then moved to Jim & 5twins TECH thread and consumed 16 pages or so there: also polluting a "how to" thread with individual troubleshooting. So all those posts also got moved to this thread. During that discussion and replacing the regulator/rectifier, the rotor then tested bad with an open circuit "OL".

gggGary then shipped 75XSSFL a known good rotor and stator FOR FREE and, after some connection cleaning.....well here we are and YA'LL are up to speed (without reading 28 pages yer welcome)

You forgot to add that he went for a 2 hr ride with my rotor that tested bad.... "on day one."
Why? Because he said it was charging at close to 14V. Gentlemen, if a dead rotor can still charge to 14V... well, color me impressed.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

You forgot to add that he went for a 2 hr ride with my rotor that tested bad.... "on day one."
Why? Because he said it was charging at close to 14V. Gentlemen, if a dead rotor can still charge to 14V... well, color me impressed.

No. A two hour ride was when the rotor was good and then throughout the ride I guess it became shot. Because when I got home the battery voltage was 8.8. Prior to me leaving it WAS charging!

 

[jpdevol]

No. A two hour ride was when the rotor was good and then throughout the ride I guess it became shot. Because when I got home the battery voltage was 8.8. Prior to me leaving it WAS charging!

Exactly....

 

[Jim]

No. A two hour ride was when the rotor was good and then throughout the ride I guess it became shot. Because when I got home the battery voltage was 8.8. Prior to me leaving it WAS charging!

Then how do you square that with your claim that the rotor was dead "from day one".... and I "just wouldn't listen to you?"

Here's my theory.... your alternator wasn't charging. You dicked around with the badly corroded rectifier and fucked around with an old regulator that's a museum piece... and killed the rotor in the process.

So, if the rotor is dead... and quiet frankly I can't bring myself to believe anything you claim now.... you have the distinction of being the very first person to kill one on my rewinds. Congrats.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Then how do you square that with your claim that the rotor was dead "from day one".... and I "just wouldn't listen to you?"

Here's my theory.... your alternator wasn't charging. You dicked around with the badly corroded rectifier and fucked around with an old regulator that's a museum piece... and killed the rotor in the process.

So, if the rotor is dead... and quiet frankly I can't bring myself to believe anything you claim now.... you have the distinction of being the very first person to kill one on my rewinds. Congrats.

Actually HERES what i think truly happened!!! Ignition switch red connection in the headlight bucket wasn’t connected properly and the connection was not good. I knew this because several times riding the past month or so the bike with spit and hesitate and actually one time it died while actually on the highway and it would not start. That same day I got home and looked inside the headlight bucket and I noticed the red wire, the one with the burnt insulation, The male was not in the female snuggly. So perhaps with this red wire moving around that’s what fucked up the rotor.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Actually HERES what i think truly happened!!! Ignition switch red connection in the headlight bucket wasn’t connected properly and the connection was not good. I knew this because several times riding the past month or so the bike with spit and hesitate and actually one time it died while actually on the highway and it would not start. That same day I got home and looked inside the headlight bucket and I noticed the red wire, the one with the burnt insulation, The male was not in the female snuggly. So perhaps with this red wire moving around that’s what fucked up the rotor.

I don’t even remember the sequence of events anymore as there’s been so many. Either way the shit works now, so fuck it.

 

[gggGary]

And thru it all in Gary did not have one smart fucking comment to say the entire time. Nothing but helpful! This man deserves an applause!

You need to go back and reread some of my posts!

 

[Jim]

I knew this because several times riding the past month or so the bike with spit and hesitate and actually one time it died while actually on the highway and it would not start.

And you're just now getting around to giving us those symptoms 28 pages in??
Wtf!?!

 

[gggGary]

Actually HERES what i think truly happened!!! Ignition switch red connection in the headlight bucket wasn’t connected properly and the connection was not good. I knew this because several times riding the past month or so the bike with spit and hesitate and actually one time it died while actually on the highway and it would not start. That same day I got home and looked inside the headlight bucket and I noticed the red wire, the one with the burnt insulation, The male was not in the female snuggly. So perhaps with this red wire moving around that’s what fucked up the rotor.

That's actually a scenario that seems to jibe with events as they unfolded.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

You need to go back and reread some of my posts!

And you're just now getting around to giving us those symptoms 28 pages in??
Wtf!?!

That’s because I had NO IDEA the two issues were correlated. I had no idea even with that red wire was two weeks ago. For the 30th time electricity, I know nothing about.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

That's actually a scenario that seems to jibe with events as they unfolded.

Well, I never brought that up because I had that issue fixed when I fix the connection and put the two connectors together. The next day is when I had this two hour ride and shit was shot. Maybe riding the bike with the connectors jiggling the past month eventually overcharged charge the system, no idea. Maybe it was just a matter of time before the rotor became open due to this red wire connector issue.