Should I give up riding?? ,lol

Hi 'fred,
factory is 17/34 except that my '84 Heritage came with 17/36. I swapped the front to 18 then back to 17 after finding that the new Heavy-Duty O-ring chain wouldn't clear. Ended up running 17/33 solo then back to 17/(& carefully saved)36 with the sidecar.
With it's hardtail/girder-fork frame your bike presumably weighs less than stock so the proposed 17/31 sprockets may well be OK.
Buy a new good quality chain with those new sprockets or you'll be sorry you didn't. And a ScottOiler too.
And even living in the woods you still have to start every ride from a standstill, eh?
About your axle running out of thread, what I'd suggest you do is this:-
When you pull the back wheel to swap it's sprocket, thread the castle-nut onto the axle until it's notches are fully aligned with the cotter-pin holes.
Measure the distance between the inner face of the castle nut and the inner face of the axle's end flange (the round head with the hole through it)
That's your stack-up distance.
The distance all those axle plates and wheel spacers and chain-tensioners and whatever have to add up to so the axle can be fully tightened down like it should be.
Full width axle plates and correctly machined spacers is best. A big stack of 20mm plain washers will work too. So long as the stack-up distance is right.
================================================================
Chain is a brand new 530 from Lowbrow,, I will inspect it for damage before threading it back up.
And yes,, it weighs HALF of what it did when new, Its very nimble and literally can get wheelstands in 2nd if you want to,
The tip on figuring the spacer needed will be done,,that approach appears to be the easiest way to determine how much I need. Should I split that distance needed between left and right sides?
THANK YOU for that
 
Fredintoon, I will take up your advice as applied to the front wheel spindle because I am not happy with the position of the castellated nut relative to the pin holes. I will make a custom washer on the lathe this week - Thank you.
 
Yes. You should give up riding...........that hardtail for something better engineered. :poke:
==========================================================
Hey,, cmon now,,,
this is a 30 year old,, midlife crisis thing for me.
Least I didn't buy a vette,,,
I'll settle into something else next summer,, hehhehheh
 
Only if you survive long enough to enjoy the second half.
=============================================
Actually,,, there are 3 times I should have not survived in this lifestream.
2 health related and one very stupid decision,,,
But hey,, I have a good luck gremlin bell on my bike now,, so I'm good..
(humor intended) hehheh
 
It's good you're getting a new front sprocket. The one in your pic is TOTALLY shot. It hardly has any teeth left. I'm sure that also contributed to your mishap. Also, if the pic shows the chain as it ended up, jammed like that, your master link is installed backwards. Just anther accident/incident waiting to happen. Your days really are numbered if you keep stuff like this up, lol.
 
I understand which direction the clip should be fitted, but is it just so that it does not catch on something and flick off, or is there more to it than that?
 
It's good you're getting a new front sprocket. The one in your pic is TOTALLY shot. It hardly has any teeth left. I'm sure that also contributed to your mishap. Also, if the pic shows the chain as it ended up, jammed like that, your master link is installed backwards. Just anther accident/incident waiting to happen. Your days really are numbered if you keep stuff like this up, lol.
I'm aware of those issues,,new front and rear sprockets ordered. As well as new bushing,,i have 2 new seals and also aware of the link clip too,,
But THANK YOU for noticing
Oh ,,also ordered a new cam snail tensioner from VooDoo Vintage
 
snail_cam_00.png
Purdy things........Should help soak up a bit of axle length but the spacers will need to be thicker because you will no longer have the inner legs of the pull type tensioners between wheel assembly and frame.
 
^You should make sure the two sprockets line up. Especially in your case... If lining the sprockets up makes the wheel off-center in the frame the do something to the frame.
 
Last edited:
^You should make sure the two sprockets line up. Especially in your case... If lining the sprockets up makes the wheel unequal in the frame the do something to the frame.
Actually I was thinking that today when ordering parts. I'm pretty sure it's not tweaked but will line it up. I watched my welder pro friend actually use a laser level pointer tool. It was pretty cool,,affordable too from what I remember. It was a long time ago
 
Do you have the stock spacer that goes on each side of the wheel? Was the hardtail made with that distance in mind? Are you tightening the nut to about 100 ft lbs?
 
I have custom axle spacers to take up distance between wheel hub and axle plates if that's what you are referring to. In all I have around 20 or so and if one is needed I don't have,,i will rework what I have to get what I need.
And yes,,,when I get to that part of the reassembly it will be torqued to spec.
 
Back
Top