The shim (washer) I needed was about 1.5mm... but yeah, put it on the right side so it doesn't mess with sprocket alignment.
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Swingarm Play (pivot bolt damage)
- Thread starter jetmechmarty
- Start date
Not read it through and not looked at the drawing ..just thinking out loud 1/8 " inch play sends signals of something is off
That region of the frame is strong perhaps strongest on the bike .. And compressing via the bolt is adding load into the frame
and on bolt . Even if it is a tubular frame and can flex --- 1/8 " inch is a bit much ( just a feeling )
On excavators there are also bolts that can take large loads radially but the forces axially are comparatively small
More or less just holding the bolt in place. Again more thinking out loud not checked it ....here
So if there is play and everything else checks out the shim is a good idea as it seems
?? Different Bushing versions
That region of the frame is strong perhaps strongest on the bike .. And compressing via the bolt is adding load into the frame
and on bolt . Even if it is a tubular frame and can flex --- 1/8 " inch is a bit much ( just a feeling )
On excavators there are also bolts that can take large loads radially but the forces axially are comparatively small
More or less just holding the bolt in place. Again more thinking out loud not checked it ....here
So if there is play and everything else checks out the shim is a good idea as it seems
?? Different Bushing versions
We don't really know where that gap comes from. So the only "truth" is checking sprocket alignment. not a bad idea anyways.
A thought on squeezing "wide gap frames" down. A short distance in front of this pivot is a rigid cross member so when you start cranking, the two sides get \ / creating stresses, the pivot shaft almost has to bow, throwing all the machined surfaces into an ugly bind.
I first mentioned the need for shims instead of brute force here about 10 years ago. It seems to mainly be a later model special thing. But worth looking for before the breaker bar is applied to the end nut.
A thought on squeezing "wide gap frames" down. A short distance in front of this pivot is a rigid cross member so when you start cranking, the two sides get \ / creating stresses, the pivot shaft almost has to bow, throwing all the machined surfaces into an ugly bind.
I first mentioned the need for shims instead of brute force here about 10 years ago. It seems to mainly be a later model special thing. But worth looking for before the breaker bar is applied to the end nut.
I'm going to shim it and go.
As a reminder, that gap is 0.129". That washer is 0.113".
This is where I gave it up tonight. It's not going to go.
I checked the '79 frame I'm tinkering with. It has the same huge gap.
My washer is 2.9 mm thick. The shim from Yamaha is of unknown thickness and about $8 ea plus shipping. I'll order from McMASTER-CARR as soon as I figure out what thickness to order.
I guess I'll be working on something else this weekend.
1.16mm ....give or take a hundredth or two. ...
Mic won't get in there. Measured the depth to the steel, zeroed and measured to the bench.
Rubber is rock hard on this one, so I recon I'm pretty close.
Shims inside the grease seal have a different mission. and are MUCH thinner than your washer.View attachment 209017View attachment 209018
As a reminder, that gap is 0.129". That washer is 0.113".
View attachment 209019
This is where I gave it up tonight. It's not going to go.
I checked the '79 frame I'm tinkering with. It has the same huge gap.
View attachment 209027 Here, the shim is shown inside the grease seal. If one of you has the grease seal, I'd love to know how thick it is. I don't have a micrometer.
My washer is 2.9 mm thick. The shim from Yamaha is of unknown thickness and about $8 ea plus shipping. I'll order from McMASTER-CARR as soon as I figure out what thickness to order.
I guess I'll be working on something else this weekend.
Go down to the hardware and start looking for machine bushings. any bigger hardware will have them, typically thinner than washers. failing that start looking at other washers, often stainless steel washers are thinner. A washer like you have there is punched out on presses, some time with a file to remove the ridges from the edges may be all you need for it to fit in.
That'd be my guess too.
1.16mm comes out to .045"
Got an extra grease seal? cut the rubber off and there's your shim. Will be about .005" too much, but that should make a snug, hand tight fit.
Thank you! I need a half a millimeter on each side. That should get it very close.
When I removed the ‘79 swingarm, it had no shims. It had to have been sloppy.
Yes, the shims shown in that parts diagram are for shimming the width of the swingarm w/ bushings installed in relation to the length of the pivot tube. You want the pivot tube just very slightly longer than the swingarm w/ bushings. If it's too long, once clamped in the frame, the swingarm will have side to side play on it.
I know, but they don't say how thick they are. They're also about $8 ea and likely take 6-8 weeks to ship.
Marty; see here. https://www.xs650.com/threads/insta...shings-and-setting-sideplay.51077/post-584157
The whole thread there is a good read for a guy where you are in swingarm land.
I kinda suspect you need to read and review the sleeve "stick out" measure, set procedure.
The swingarm shim is very thin, as mentioned. It's size is given in some of the older parts manuals and is 26-34-0.3. 0.3mm is only about .012". These shims were installed on a "as needed" basis, which from what I've found, wasn't very often. I've only run across a couple in all the swingarms I've pulled apart (maybe a dozen or so).
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