Welded Frame, Bike wont start.

I commend your perseverance and I know you're working your tail-off on this. Gotta make another suggestion, while we wait on Gonzo confirmation: Battery retailers typically don't charge them when sitting in inventory - I'd put in on the charger to top-it-up. Second, clean the contact point on frame for battery negative cable and re-attach. I don't expect that to fix anything, just good practice.
 
I commend your perseverance and I know you're working your tail-off on this. Gotta make another suggestion, while we wait on Gonzo confirmation: Battery retailers typically don't charge them when sitting in inventory - I'd put in on the charger to top-it-up. Second, clean the contact point on frame for battery negative cable and re-attach. I don't expect that to fix anything, just good practice.
Yeah I got it on the charger to top off. I’ll clean up that ground on the frame too. Any ideas on what could be causing this voltage drop? It’s happening on both old and new connectors. Im gonna clean up the old ones while im there, but what could it be?
 
If you mean drop @ Gonzo; IDK normal or bad???
Drop in rest of system; test voltage IN (Red) @ Ign Switch & voltage OUT (Brown). Fuse box, same deal; IN (Brown), OUT R/Y, R/W, Br
Voltage drop at coil is OK
 
2V drop - I don't think that's gonna be normal. Folks who speak Gonzo need to comment.
Right. Gonzo box voltage drop should be almost nill.... prolly less than a half an amp draw at most. If it's energizing the coil however, it could be that large (the combination of box and coil). Coil draws 2-3 amps by itself... might knock an iffy battery down a volt or more.



OK gentlemen, so..... same game, different dealer. :laugh2:

Back in front of a screen these ol' eye can actually see. :cautious:

These are shots of the connector on my bike... an '80. The '80 uses brown instead of orange for coil feed. Other than that, make sure yours is wired just like this.
Again, your orange will replace the brown you see on mine. The Black/White wire is the sidestand cutout. Dyke it, cap it and fugetaboutit (It's not shown in these pics).
Notice I've got my pigtail (identical to the one I sold you) plugged into it. Notice the black dots? Use those as a reference for orientation. If you can, grab your camera and try and duplicate these two shots and put 'em up here so we can see what you got.


TCI connector lock side.jpg


TCI connector other side.jpg
 
Just thought.... there's two B/W.... rather, one's supposed to be B/W and the other W/B..... don' dyke nothin' until we sort it out.
 
Okay so two things, got it wired up like such. The harness only has five connecting wires and yours in the picture seems to have six. I am missing one for the g/w wire so I made up a little guy (for testing purposes) to connect it where you did in your picture. I don’t have a male connector to put in the six pin connector so I just connected it outside the harness. Will take it apart once we get results and attach it properly after.
Also I have the b/w wire connected and the w/b off to the side
**haven’t tried to crank anything yet.
 

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So, first off the White/Green is not needed for the gonzo box. It's the advance trigger coil. I highly recommend you eventually hook it back up so you have the option of running an actual TCI box if the occasion presents itself. But just to repeat, you don't need it right now to make the gonzo work. Just pull all that out of the way for now.

Curious.... the B/W wire you have plugged in... can you chase it back to it's source? Hopefully it goes to the pickup coils on the stator. I'm just worried about that being the sidestand wire. Can you confirm that for us?

Other than that, it looks correct. Did you, at any time, put power to the gonzo with it "not wired" as it currently is?

Without going back through 11 pages, have we tried the coil "tap test?"
 
I’ll go check and chase down that b/w wire. I did try to fire it with the wires setup differently than this, and not just the polarity of the pickups. We did do the coil tap test and I got a spark
 
The tap test was successful prior to ordering Gonzo. The sidestand relay is now disconnected. The Gonzo has been powered with two previous wire configs
 
OK... we'll hold here pending your scavenger hunt B/W or W/B wire hunt.... :sneaky:
 
The Gonzo has been powered with two previous wire configs
By all accounts the gonzo is pretty robust.... but I don't think it's ever been mis-wired here before, not the power lead anyway....

at least never admitted to. ;)
 
By all accounts the gonzo is pretty robust.... but I don't think it's ever been mis-wired here before, not the power lead anyway....

at least never admitted to. ;)
Worst case scenario, I have another one coming this tuesday. Also unplugged the g/w from the gn250. Gonna add it to the 6 pin harness. One more thing to note, I actually wired it improperly to the point where I blew an ignition fuse so I wouldn’t be surprised if the gonzo is ded
 
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Okay yall, the b/w does go to the pickups.
Ok, so now you're wired correctly.... 'cept maybe the polarity of the pickup. Did you try swapping the B?W and the W/R leads... swap polarity of the pickup and see if you get spark?

I've been speed readin' back through this thread and apparently there's some concern about a voltage drop?

Iirc... I sent you some extra pins. If so, make a jumper wire that you can hook straight to the battery and plug it directly into the "new" 6pin connector.
Be sure and tape up the pin you pull out so it doesn't short to anything. Turn the bike on and see if you get spark?

Or has this already been tried?



zz.png
 
Has not been tried

At one point, total drop was ~3V, 2 of which turned-out to be Gonzo. Latest, I think, is .8 battery to harness @ igniter connector
 
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I havent been able in the past with this wiring setup to get a spark with either polarity. Im down to try a jumper, Ive just never made one of those before. Strip one end of the wire and connect it to the battery and replace the r/w cable? Do I need an extra ground?
 
I havent been able in the past with this wiring setup to get a spark with either polarity. Im down to try a jumper, Ive just never made one of those before. Strip one end of the wire and connect it to the battery and replace the r/w cable? Do I need an extra ground?
Just take a wire long enough.... doesn't matter what size. Crimp a pin on it. Pull the R/W wire (pin) out of the connector and plug the new pin (wire) in. Hook up the connector. Take the other end of the wire and attach it to the pos lead of the battery..... that's it.
Turn the key on, spin it and see if you're getting spark.

What we're doing is bypassing the fuses, iggy switch, kill switch.... everything... and shooting power straight into the gonzo box.
 
Just take a wire long enough.... doesn't matter what size. Crimp a pin on it. Pull the R/W wire (pin) out of the connector and plug the new pin (wire) in. Hook up the connector. Take the other end of the wire and attach it to the pos lead of the battery..... that's it.
Turn the key on, spin it and see if you're getting spark.

What we're doing is bypassing the fuses, iggy switch, kill switch.... everything... and shooting power straight into the gonzo box.
ran it hot, got no spark either from either polarity.
 
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