funky
XS650 Junkie
Yep im going to etch prime and primer and then sell it on hopefully little project
Aah Schucks.. Somebody just has to tell about the whole wheel , axle , brake and all just coming straight out the rear..I had a set of those or similar the only issue I had was when I had to remove the rear wheel I had to take the exhaust off as the end of the exhaust was past the rear spindle bolt
Aah Schucks.. Somebody just has to tell about the whole wheel , axle , brake and all just coming straight out the rear..
No muffler removal necessary..
Seen that before when I sold a bike to a new owner. And o'boy did he like hearing that also about a month later when I stopped by and looked at those 77 pipes again
Dang it, here I go again with my own precision torque calibrated hands technique.I think the issue isnt actually removing the wheel, but properly torquing the axle when reassembling. There’s not really any way around having the torque wrench straight outside of the axle is there? Could you use a crows foot extension?
Dang it, here I go again with my own precision torque calibrated hands technique.
Really, a torque wrench on the rear axle ?
This 27mm box end makes the job quick and easy. View attachment 137125
Yup. Just get 'er good and tight. Yamaha calls for 100 ft. lbs. (I think). That's not how you do a castle nut.... you need a torque range. Lets say 90-110 ft. lbs. You tighten the nut to min. value... 90 in this case. Reset the wrench to the max value... 110. Now you tighten the nut 'till you can get a cotter pin to fit without the wrench clicking at max. That way you stay within the torque range and still get a cotter pin in there. Without a range to fall within, the odds of lining up a cotter pin hole on a specific value are pretty low. Just crank 'er down tight....I just crank it down hard and line up the cotter pin hole.