Gents, I need your expert help...
So I followed the plan and the program.
- I adjusted the cam chain (flush, etc).
- I adjusted the valves as per the intake and outake dimensions I had been told (INLET 0.006" EXHAUST 0.012)
- I set the points clearance (0.016 to 0.012) and the timing (to middle of the F marks).
- I charged the battery (actually I pretty much have it always on a tender) and used a steel brush to polish/brush the spark plugs
- I also cleaned the carbs (3 times now) and I re-adjusted the one that I suspected was too lean (the right)
- To top it all off, I gave it a good cleaning with degreaser and water and then used my air hose and waited a whole night and part of the day for it all to dry (this took restraint).
What am I doing wrong? Why? well, before all this I had a working bike but my carbs seemed not so adjusted. Then i fiddled with it and installed new floats and is worked better, except the right side seemed a bit lean now and i needed to make a hair adjustment. So before I adjusted the valve clearances and the points it was working...
...And now it won't even start. I rechecked the freaking points 3 times. In the process I got fed up of my 40 year old screws so even went and bought a bunch of new (metric) screws for the points system (the adjustment screws). In the process I cleaned the heck out of this. Granted I used the light bulb static method to adjust the points as seen on this video and the link below:
http://www.650central.com/fsetting_pointstype_ignition_on.htm
Some information. As I adjusted the valves, they were way too tight. As in, the clearances when dead top end were minimal. How did I do it? I rotated the engine counter clockwise until the piston hit maximum height on the side I was adjusting (watch the exhaust go down and then up, then the intake down and then stop when it's up at the max compression). At this point there is play on both of the valves (in and out) and I adjusted the clearances. Repeat for the other side, and that's it.
For the points, I followed the video above to the T but I also put my finger in the hole to make sure it was at top of compression (when I felt my finger was being pushed out of the spark plug hole I'd stop and then rotate until I saw the F mark, and then gently rotate until it was at the middle). I then adjusted the top points first (for the right side cylinder) by moving the whole jig. I quadruple checked, so that every time the turn came to the right place that bulb would light up smack at the middle of the F mark. I now see how hard it is to get this right with a bulb, but I thought to get it good enough this way and then, once i got it working, I'd get a strobe... same thing for the left side, I adjusted the lower part of the jig etc. Same thing, rotate the engine, when the piston on the left side was getting to the top of the compression stroke (feeling the hole on that side) I'd go about the same thing.
But all that done, I go and I try and run it and it wont even sputter. Electrical seems fine, all else is same as 48 hours before when I started adjusting the valve clearances. So the question is? Do I have to go further back and adjust the advance mechanism? Granted, my engine was running but my valve clearances were completely off and the point at which the mark would hit the F the light had been long on... could it be my engine was set differently and this guy had it running right even though he was not following the marks? WTF... problem now is, I am a bit lost because I feel like I followed painstakingly every direction and the right steps and now my bike won't even fire up...
Help is welcome!