Once the tire was off a few days ago - I went ahead and began the process of
replacing the bearings and
lacing/respoking the wheel.
(The new bearings)
Removing the bearings was not too difficult (a little barbaric, but not too difficult). I first used a screwdriver and removed the non-drive side seal. Then, I tried to use a long screw driver and catch the bearing lip from inside the spacer - with the intention of tapping out the non-drive side bearing. This didn't work. So, I grabbed a socket that matched the size of the inner diameter of the drive-side bearing (it's technically matching the diameter of the little top-hat spacer inside the drive-side bearing). I used a socket extension, and gave it the deeds (I used quite a bit of force). This worked, and pushed out the non-drive side bearing. The spacer came out as well, with the top hat spacer. Then, I knocked out the drive-side bearing using the socket by tapping from the non-drive side.
(old bearings out, new ones about to go in)
Installing the bearings was a smooth process. I stuck them in the freezer for a couple hours prior to beginning (side note: during this time I wired up by master cylinder brake light line. I used two female connectors to attach to the prongs coming out of the master cylinder. Taped and heat-shrinked the wires, good-to-go). I inserted the spacer (longer side to the drive-side) and inserted the top-hat spacer into the larger drive-side bearing (used a piece of wood and tapped it in evenly). Next, I placed the smaller non-drive side bearing and used a piece of wood and tapped it in evenly. This took quite a bit of force. Once it was flush with the hub, I used a socket that was just large enough to cover the metal edge of the bearing and the inner metal ring - this is to not punch through the plastic of the bearing. I tapped in the bearing by moving the socket around the bearing making sure it went in evenly. I followed a similar process on the drive-side bearing. Finally, I installed the seals.
Cleaning the rim and hub was nothing too special. I'm not going for a total rebuff/shine - Just got the grime off and used some simple cleaner and polish. I cleaned the brake dust from the drum brake too. I will do this again once tire is on the wheel.
Lacing the rear wheel was fairly simple. I took a picture of both side of the wheel beforehand. I first inserted all the interior spokes (the 90 degree bent spokes go from inside to out, and the > 90 degree spokes go from outside to inside - at least that's what I noted when uninstalling the old spokes). I screwed the nipples on loosely when installing the spokes. I did the same for the outside spokes. Pretty easy. Oh - I also lubricated the nipples prior to installing the spokes.
(lacing the wheel)
(laced up)
Truing the wheel was a bit more tedious but zen - put some music on, make a coffee, take your time. I do not have a truing stand, so I rigged one up using two jack stands, a small flathead screw driver, and a 6" ruler. I taped the screw driver horizontally for a side-to-side pointer, and the ruler vertically for an up-down reference point. So I went through and worked out the side-to-side wobble. Then, I adjusted groups of spokes to work out the up-and-down wobble. I noted my wheel has a little bit of a 'hop' in it - tried to mitigate it as much as possible during truing - but the hop seems to be less than an 1/8" of an inch. I think we're OK.
(judge a man not by his truing stand, but by his truth)
Will need to get tires and brake shoes before balancing and moving onto the front wheel. Any recommendations for a 60/40 or 80/20 dual sport tire that would fit a 16" rear and 19" front? Preferably nothing too knobby.