Maxx650 Build Thread

Hey guys - I'm finishing up the wiring and want to reposition my key ignition switch to underneath my seat pan. I'm looking for a key ignition switch that is square/rectangular and can't find anything that isn't a round body. I want a squae shaped body design to fit nicely flush along the seat pan.

The alternative to this is to fab up a small box/bracket for a round key ignition to sit in but I was hoping to save myself to hassle. Anyone see a square/rectangular key ignition before?
 
Here's a mockup of my rear tail/brake/turn signals:

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Thanks for the kind words everyone, pipes are still a bit uneven - waiting on new gaskets this week before tightening them up proper.

Should be getting a lot done this weekend - would love to start her up again :)
 
@sbaugz - to answer your question from when I had just received the GS pipes in this image (if you zoom in) shows that the tabs line up with the mounting tabs. In this photo the pipes are not properly mounted/aligned as I did not have gaskets at the moment (just for mockup purposes): http://i.imgur.com/hHMZAf0.jpg

GS provided some springs that clip onto the mufflers to keep them from bouncing around so much I believe.. haven't figured out where to clip them to on the frame yet though... probably should have welded something on :D

GS also provided some collars to hold the mufflers in place... but with the mufflers at a greater thickness than the pipes to slide on they don't have much effect.. not sure if I should be doing something differently. I need to contact him to see if I need to cut some slits in the neck of the mufflers so that it can constrict to the pipes
 
Maxx650 said:
@sbaugz - to answer your question from when I had just received the GS pipes in this image (if you zoom in) shows that the tabs line up with the mounting tabs. In this photo the pipes are not properly mounted/aligned as I did not have gaskets at the moment (just for mockup purposes): http://i.imgur.com/hHMZAf0.jpg

GS provided some springs that clip onto the mufflers to keep them from bouncing around so much I believe.. haven't figured out where to clip them to on the frame yet though... probably should have welded something on :D

GS also provided some collars to hold the mufflers in place... but with the mufflers at a greater thickness than the pipes to slide on they don't have much effect.. not sure if I should be doing something differently. I need to contact him to see if I need to cut some slits in the neck of the mufflers so that it can constrict to the pipes
Click to expand...

Thanks for info on the gs pipes. I ordered a set from him and hopefully they will be done soon. Like the tail lights inset into the seat
 
Hey friends, I finished up all of my electronics - still a few tests to run on the coils before I run the motor. All my accessories are working now. I bought $10 universal car key ignition from pep boys since mine was beat up and fabricated a bracket for it that I set underneath the seat. The fuse box lays on top of that bracket under the seat as well and mikesxs reg/rect just a bit in front of it on the botom of seat pan as well. Got a few wires to finish tidying up / hiding. Put a junction box in the back on the seat pan and ran my wires through a hole in the back of the pan. I use two modules from Signal Dynamics (one is a load balancer for LEDs) - the main one takes care of the back brake / tail / turn signals all in one that you can see in the video. Turned out pretty neat I think.

Hopefully more work next weekend including first engine fireup in a while, hope you enjoy the vid / pics.


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Not sure how I'm feeling now on this big ol' 4" electronic Speedo I have.. from a profile view looks pretty intrusive on the style I have.
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The tank isn't on properly as I still needed to place the coil in a better position.
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Some questions for you all:

I removed the original headlight fork braces that the front turn signals normally screw into to hold the assembly in place (removed the front turn signals), replaced with a universial headlight mounts that just clamped onto the fork. Now the silver emblem bit that would cover up part of the fork dust covers won't stay in place as the original braces aren't there to hold it down. How can I prevent the fork dust covers from now getting extra dirt, etc. in the gap up top?. I think I need to rebuild more forks with new seals as it is leaking oil - is there a recommended fork rebuild kit? better dust covers that would solve my first issue?

Thanks!
 
Maxx, you know just order the stuff from Mikes to rebuild the forks, its super simple the hardest part is getting the right tool, which you can make for about 20 cents and a welder. I have rebuilt three sets of forks so far and they were all super easy. I used this write up by HHB when I did, except I didn't lower them, but the basics are there with pictures :) (http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5537) read threw that and it will be pretty simple on what you need to do and then get / make tool wise, I could even send / borrow you the long allen wrench for a socket driver but really you could do it with a normal allen key with a vise grip I just happen to have one for farm machinery already.

On the dust covers, I have tried 3 different ones for the XS and they were all hot garbage in my eyes, they always got chalked full of dirt. I first tried the ones off Mikes and they were so stiff that they cracked after a month of riding. I now have the ones off of dime city cycles website and while they are a Chinese piece of crap that hardly do its job, they are still the best I have run across to just get the look. So maybe some one else out there has had some better luck with dust boots but....
 
Is the bike a kit start and where did you get your rearsets? Will you be bending your kickstart to fit?
jefft
 
@Dakota_lew - thanks for that info, I went through that guide earlier but wasn't sure if it was depended on lowering the forks. I'll order a seal kit and fix them up and get some dust covers from dime city. Curious - did you get the short ones, or the full length gaitors?

@jefft It retains it's electric start and kick as well.. the rear sets are loaded gun customs - I haven't heated/bent my kickstarter yet but I plan on it. Loaded gun customs gave instructions with the rear sets on how / where to make the bends.
 
Hey Maxx650, don't want to step on anybodies toes, but here I go...:D
I bought some gaitors from 650central that seem to be of good quality.They fit good and are very pliable.
 
Thanks Johnt3 I'll look into those as well.

Another question for everyone:

I picked up some 6ga wire to run from my starter solenoid to the start motor (I'm retaining my electric start). It was rated for 75amps - is this enough? Should I get 4ga instad?
 
She lives! (again). I've put just about everything back together, hopefully next weekend I'll finish up the odds and ends.

Question(s):
  • Only new bits are body work, all new custom wiring, and GS pipes. Sounds amazing but having trouble idling some (didn't really fire it up more than a few times) - will I need to adjust my timing (pamco) after installing GS pipes? I have not rejetted my carbs.. - however I believe they have been jetted up a bit by my mechanic when I put on Mikes XS pods about a year ago.
  • Anyone painted their Omar's fiberglass seat? What's the best way? Rough it up wet sanding to finer grit and hit it with rattle cans and some of that spraymax 2K I keep hearing about? He mentioned something like 6 weeks of curing?! is that right?
  • One more: know where I can get exhaust valve tappet o-rings locally? Maybe pick up at a yamaha dealership?

Everything else works great - battery gets a very nice ~14V when revving up (main reason for doing this project was that my charging system never really worked / wires were horrible).

Plan on spending the next month or so doing some final touches - will get mini speedo+tacho, new tires (suggestions?), paint my seat asap (and get my damn cushion from omars!!), paint brake calipers, paint wheels.

Let me know of any suggestions! some wires are hanging down as I had just hooked up the starter motor and had to free upa bit of wires, will look tidier next time I promise :D Also ignore my temp ghetto throttle cable. Also, any top end rattle in the video is because I realized my exhaust valve tappets were loose/not tightened and rattling a bit.. I still also need to tap out a broken off screw in one of those tappets.


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Definitely the best part of this project is that is has all been done with my dad, without which I would have been totally lost. He's a freaking genius when it comes to motors and electronics and blows me away with all of his knowledge. It's been an awesome learning experience and I imagine this is only the first of many bikes I'll rebuild. However, I don't think I'll ever get rid of or sell my XS.
 
Good to hear your working on your bike with your dad. That's cool.
On your fiberglass seat, I would stick with the 6 weeks he told ya. I'd scrub it with a grey scotch-brite in some water with a little dawn soap to get rid of the release wax first. When you go to prep for paint make sure you keep an eye out for pin holes in the gel coat.
Looks to be a nice piece you have there.
 
Sooo close..

This weekend I:
  • rebuilt both forks with new seals (needs dust covers)
  • rebuilt my rear cylinder (brake)
  • bled both brakes
  • finished up rearsets
  • made a new aluminum speedo magnet bracket (it's electronic)
  • seat was painted
  • put on new throttle and throttle cable, fabricated a new 'thread' bit that goes right before where the 'head' catches in with the carbs - I'll take a photo of that cause I think it's neat.
  • tapped a new thread and replaced a broken off tappet cover screw
  • polished and cleaned lots of bits

Still on the list:
  • new tappet orings, dust covers, rear brake switch
  • heat and bend kick starter (got a new vice though and it's sweet!)
  • may have to rejet carbs/adjust timing (not sure yet?)
  • need to find a good way to cut nice perfect straight 2" holes in the fiberglass seat. The issue is that the seat has a curve to it, and I want the lights to be mounted flush, perpendicular to the ground.. basically I don't want a wonky-eyed looking double tail light. A hole saw is the obvious idea, but I need to cut it straight, against the curve.. still trying to figure this one out.
  • still waiting on my cushion from omar's
  • later this summer (need to save a bit): new tacho and speed, will make a plate to hold those gauges and my LED neutral and hi beam indicator lights I wired in.. also new tires later this summer.
  • also later on is a new shorty fender.. maybe stainless?

My fork seals were totally gone and I had barely any fork oil in them. Everything looked fine though, I used Hugh's guide to replace the seals - just didn't lower them. I did find an alternative to having to weld those tools, and probably cheaper too - I bought a long, 2+ ft. steel bar about 3/4" wide (can be seen in first photo) that I just put in the upper fork to unscrew it from the lower.. it was like $3 and fit like a glove in the giant allen bit deep in there, and just held it with a wrench. Also my rear cylinder was just awful.. so full of dirt and grime.. and now my brakes work.. like.. well how brakes work! :D

Will be at the Moto GP races in Austin this weekend and busy the next.. hopefully will go on a test ride first week of May.

Questions:
  • I have GS cafe pipes on this bike and MikesXS performance pods.. My carbs were cleaned and jetted by a great Austin xs mechanic about a year ago for the mikesXS oval pods with my stock exhaust.. I can't remember exactly the sizes he went up.. but I think it was about 140 on the main and 1 or 2 up on the pilots? Anyone think I need to re-jet my carbs again? I haven't run it too much yet, but it seems to sound ok - I have seen a bit of backfire through the carbs once of twice, but assumed that would be timing.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

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Just ordered one of these.. I've read people say they've hooked them up but wondering if anyone had troubles with theirs? Did you manage to get the tach and speedo working correctly? How accurate is it? How did you hook up an engine temp sensor?

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